Anyone familiar with Remote starters

[Regal_GS_1989]

Alright, i figured since the regal is probably gonna be sold, and that the cutlass *should* have the exact same wiring, i figured why not swap over my remote starter. The unit is a compustar CM4200. It worked when it was installed in the regal, but now after moving it over to the cutlass, and connecting it to the exact same wires that it was connected to in the regal, there are some issues. Main issue is that the car will not start with the remote. There is no current going from the module to the starter wire, so maybe something is screwy with the programming of the unit? And the second issue is that if i start the car manually, then let the remote starter take over, the alt stops charging until i turn the key back on. I'm pretty sure that that never occured while the unit was in the regal. Any help would be appreciated.

 

 

TIA

[slick]

Sounds a little odd that the alternator isn't charging, I've personally never had that issue before. BTW, NEVER assume that the wiring is the same. It most likely is, but again, never assume.

 

DIRECTWIREâ„¢ WIRING INFORMATION - OLDSMOBILE / CUTLASS SUPREME / 1992 / Remote Start

12volts red + ignition harness

Starter yellow + ignition harness

Ignition pink + ignition harness

Second Ignition dark blue/white + ignition harness

Accessory orange + ignition harness

Second Accessory purple/white + ignition harness

Power Lock lt. blue + either kick

Power Unlock black + either kick

Parking Lights+ brown headlight switch

Notes: Also found low in the drivers kick panel.

Door Trigger white - headlight switch

Notes: Also found low in the drivers kick panel.

Dome Supervision use door trigger

Trunk/Hatch Release black + release switch

Tachometer pur/wht or white ac igniton coil

Notes: Also found at the instrument cluster as white.

Brake Wire white or lt. blue + brake switch

Horn Trigger black - steering column

 

You need to make sure that both Accessory's and Ignitions are powered, or it may not function properly. That could be one thing that is happening. Where did you connect your tach line to? Or does it just sense voltage(that kinda blows)? Did you have to program the remote starter(push button externally or on the brain of the remote start)?

 

I've personally never dealt with Compustar stuff myself, I've really only done DEI stuff. But, troubleshooting is pretty much universal.

 

 

 

 

[Regal_GS_1989]

I hooked the tach wire up to one of the wires that run to the fuel injectors. That is where it was connected on the regal, and there is also a switch to learn the tach. The brain confirmed that it learned the tach. As for the wiring, i just double checked the list, and the wiring is infact the same between the 2 cars. I will double check that it is properly setup for 2nd ignition though.

[slick]

Yeah, it's best to check your connections. How's the ground? Since it learned the tach, you did go to the correct wire at the fuel injector.

 

Definately check to make sure both accessory's and both ignitions are getting power.

[Regal_GS_1989]

Alright, heres what i found out so far....

 

1. When i try to pop the trunk with the remote, the doors unlock only (It always unlocked the doors and then popped the trunk) The lights would normally flash about 10 times, now they only flash twice. So i'm sure that the brain isn't triggering the trunk release.

 

2. There is only one accessory wire from my remote start, that one is connected to the orange ignition harness wire. When the car is running off the brain, there is no current in that wire (possibly why the alt doesnt charge)

 

3. Both ignition wires are getting power.

 

4. When i attempt to start the car with the remote, the ignition powers up and the fuel pump primes, but the car doesnt start. I can hear a relay click in the brain, but when i check the starter wire for current, there is none when it attemps to start.

 

The only thing that comes to mind right now is that the regal has been parked since march, and it has gone dead several times, and also been jump started a few times as well. I'm wondering is something got messed up while it was still in the regal.

 

[slick]

You need to get that accessory wire powered somehow. You may try tapping off of one of the ignition wires from the brain as a temporary try. If it works, use a relay so your not draining the power from the ignition line.

[slick]

The brain could have very well gone bad, it is very possible. Are there any jumpers on the side of the brain that maybe got moved around?

[Regal_GS_1989]

No. All the jumpers are behind an access pannel. I'm starting to think that the brain went bad. Everything is hooked up correctly, so thats the only thing that is making sense right now.

[slick]

It is very very possible.

[Regal_GS_1989]

I believe that the remote starter that is in my dad's truck is the same as the one that i put in the cutlass. If they are, i might just plug that one in and check it out. If everything works as it should then i'll know for sure that there is something wrong with the brain. Or i might just call up the place that installed it originally in my regal and see if they no of any solutions.

[slick]

You can try swapping brains, that should work. The basics between the brands are the same.

 

You could try option number 2, but don't be suprised if they give you no information. That makes the shop liable if you happen to burn up your ignition harness, or cause any electrical damage to your vehicle.

[Regal_GS_1989]

I was thinking more along the lines of a programming procedure for the unit, or if they know of any special programming that is required to make it function properly. I do know that they had issues installing it in my regal. It was only supposed to take about 1.5 hours - 2 hours, and i waited almost 5 hours cause the car wouldnt start, then wouldnt stay running and stuff like that.

[slick]

Thats not right, at all. W-body vehicles are VERY easy to do. I could do a full alarm/remote start/keyless entry on a 1st gen WITH the Vats (key in the chip) in less than 2.5 hours.