Driver's side door goes click/clunk!

[GPX]

My '96 Cutlass coupe has done this since I got it a year ago: as the driver's door is opened, there is this uncool clunky-click sound at about 20 degrees, and then again at about 40 degrees. I'm sure it's because of the insanely long coupe door. I was hoping one of you obsessed w-body freaks might know about this problem and have a solution for it that doesn't involve me taking it to a body shop.

 

Thanls,

 

--David

[89GP_SE]

Umm I dont know if this is just a regular thing with W-body 2 doors, but my dads 88 grand prix did the same click clunk, and same with the 89 that I had. Both on the passenger side only.

[Crazy K]

my 93 does that. the door needs to be adjusted up. the cladding is clicking when the door rubs it!

[rudefyet]

my 90 GP did that too, yay for w-bodies!

[89GP_SE]

my 93 does that. the door needs to be adjusted up. the cladding is clicking when the door rubs it!

 

my car didnt have any cladding on the doors of fenders, it was something with the hing I think, I dont know never bothered with it, the way I looked at it, my dad put up with it for 8 years in his 88, I can put up with it too, and now that I think about it, my uncles 89 international did it too.

[White93z34]

my z34 did that for the longest time, till one day the door prop rod snapped on me.

[shyguy164]

Try disconnecting the door catch. It's the thing that keeps the door from flying open too far. Unbolt it from the frame, not the door. If the noise goes away, it's that. If the noise is still there, the hinges are bad. Try lifting the door from where it meets the B pillar or whatever you call the side of the door opposite of the hinges. If you can lift it at all, replace the hinges. I've had to do this on my 88 coupe. I'm due for both sets of door hinges being replaced now. The driver side goes clunk and the passenger side is rubbing on the front fender and harder than hell to pull open.

[slick]

Most likely your hinge is on it's way out. You can try spraying some silicon lubricant on it to quiet the noise down, but eventually those hinges will need replaced.

[Turbo231]

Eh, it might just need a minor adjustment. Figure how many times that door has been operated, it is probably sagging. How well does the door line up with the striker? Also, is it clearing the fender 100%? While I wouldn't recommend it for an amature, with a little jacking you can lift the door and have it act as new again. Of course, this is provided the A-pillar metal is in good shape and not rusted to hell.

[1990lumina]

The doors on my Lumina were both sagged (hinges are weak on the first gens IMO)..I just grabbed the door underneath on the end and pulled up as hard as I could..helps to rock the car back and forth by pulling up on the door and when the car is rocking back down yank the door against the motion..my driver's door was fucking the striker , but after doping that it was fine.

[ns87]

FWIW, my 4 door drivers door clicks from where the striker goes into the door, not from the hinges on the outside

[CanadianRegal]

Both of my doors do the samething. Its that bar of metal thats between both of the hinges. There is a pin that attaches the bar to the A-pillar. Thats what is making the noise in my car.

[BXX]

Try disconnecting the door catch. It's the thing that keeps the door from flying open too far. Unbolt it from the frame, not the door. If the noise goes away, it's that. If the noise is still there, the hinges are bad. Try lifting the door from where it meets the B pillar or whatever you call the side of the door opposite of the hinges. If you can lift it at all, replace the hinges. I've had to do this on my 88 coupe. I'm due for both sets of door hinges being replaced now. The driver side goes clunk and the passenger side is rubbing on the front fender and harder than hell to pull open.

 

Exactly, it is 90% of the the time the door catch rod.... I do believe it has to do with a broken bushing or track that it runs through in the door...

[kuwaitliberation]

Well, mine did the click/clunk until the check link assembly (as it is called in my service manual) broke off. That is the part shyguy refers to. It has two check points where it will hold the door open at those points until you pull on it. That thing is under a lot of stress because the door swings further than the check link assembly goes. Once it breaks off, there is a rubber bumper that the front edge of the door strikes when it is opened too far.

 

Mine actually ripped a hole in the sheet metal right where the assembly attaches to the A pillar. See attached picture.

 

[attachment deleted by admin] Removed to free up storage space.

[shyguy164]

Ouch, that sucks dude!

[Garrett Powered]

mine ripped off the door part but I repaired it with a big washer with 2 holes drilled in it. I went and got a junk courtesy hold. there are two kinds, I prefer the roller style that dont break. they are not always courteous though.

[GPX]

I finally took the time to observe my door today and I'm pleased to say that I think it is in fact my "check link." Luckily my car isn't very rusty (I don't know why--it's a Massachusetts car) so I don't think I'm in danger of ripping it out of the A-pillar. I will soon disconnect it and duct tape it out of the way to see if that fixes the problem. Will keep you posted.

 

Thanks!

[shyguy164]

I finally took the time to observe my door today and I'm pleased to say that I think it is in fact my "check link." Luckily my car isn't very rusty (I don't know why--it's a Massachusetts car) so I don't think I'm in danger of ripping it out of the A-pillar. I will soon disconnect it and duct tape it out of the way to see if that fixes the problem. Will keep you posted.

 

Thanks!

 

If it's the check link that's bad, you'll definitely want to get it replaced. Imagine a windy day with our w-body doors that are a mile long. A good gust gets that door, blows it open, and possibly damages the hinges. Plus, the check link is nice for opening your doors if you're parked on an angle since they help hold the door open.

 

I decided to bring out my 88 international series yesterday for some cleaning and summer driving. I opened the passenger door (which I already knew the hinges were on their way out) and POP! It took me a few minutes to realize what had happened. The pin that connects the door side of the hinge to the body side of the hinge decided to shear off. Luckily, it was the lower hinge, so I could still close the door. I guess it's time for the body shop since I dont want to replace hinges again. I did the driver side set a few years ago and the door doesn't close right. The hinge set per side is like $70 last time I checked from GM, the body shop wanted $150 per side. They can have the $80 bucks for me not to have to deal with the 1000 lb door.

[GPX]

Right! I didn't mean I'd go around without the check link for any length of time. You're right about these crazy-long doors--it wouldn't take much of a breeze to rip it right off. I was just going to disconnect it to be sure the noise goes away. After watching it work, I'm 99% sure it's the check link, but I might just check it anyway. Unfortunately, I have two more pressing problems that I'm dealing with right now. I'm just glad to know that the door probably isn't going to fall off any time soon!

 

Thanks!

 

[Garrett Powered]

just had another cortesy hold tear out the sheet metal. hardware store, fastener section with the part in my hand, ended up being a 1 inch washer I think. fit it over the rod to see if the holes big enough. took it home, drilled two holes in it, massaged back the sheet metal best I could on the door, sinched down the 2 8 mm nuts and it works better than new.