Scottster Posted June 26, 2007 Report Share Posted June 26, 2007 I'm having trouble right now poping some new 4x6 speakers into the dash of the GP. They are 150W max(20w nom.) Pioneers, and right on the box is a chart that indicates they do fit a 90 GPs dash. My problem is the drivers side is too shallow, and the speaker bottoms out before it is flush into the hole. I'm sort of pissed...I bought these to fit...and I'm ready to throw in the towel, unless someone has some advice? There physicaly isn't enough depth, so will I have to "make" room by cutting out the black plastic that it is bumping against? (I'd rather not...these speakers were supposed to pop right in damn it!) BTW...I am installing 600hz bass blockers on both these, and the Alpine door speakers I poped in a few months ago, just to clean up the sound a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted June 26, 2007 Report Share Posted June 26, 2007 CUT AWAY! simplest thing to do man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted June 26, 2007 Report Share Posted June 26, 2007 I'd take them back and get something that fits personally..I hate when people hack up original parts of a car just to fit in audio equiptment..though I understand sometimes it is necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted June 26, 2007 Report Share Posted June 26, 2007 Or give them to me for my Silhouette. j/k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted June 26, 2007 Report Share Posted June 26, 2007 no way hacks..they will fit. they just look like theres just 1'8 inch gap but that will go away once you get some sound deadener and tape a gasket around the speaker and screw them in for a real good planar separation. the sandwiching technique really seals off the two sides well and drastically improves sound and lengthens voice coil life. as well as clearance issues that you speak of. clarion 4/6s fit real good. just cut a big square for the top piece and a smaller oval or donut shape to tape up from below. I actually used adhesive backed drawer liner made from memory foam to sandwich the driver itself then used a big sheet of deadener with a oval cut out to drape over the foam and the dash still squeezed down over it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottster Posted June 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2007 Got 'em in! They really sound great! It's amazing the difference with all of the speakers working up front. When I got the car it had the pass. side dash speaker removed, which meant there was only the drivers side original 10ohm drivers dash, and door speakers. Then I replaced the doors with new Alpine 4x6s, which helped a bit. However, the door speakers were overloaded without the bass-blockers, and the sound was restricted by your knee (or passangers), but I never really noticed until how much was "lacking" until I hear everything now! The sound is so full, crisp and clean. I had some classic heavy metal rocking earlier with a smile from ear to ear! The "plastic" that the drivers side speaker was bottoming out against turned out to be just a foam-backed rubber liner for the structural brace that runs under the the bottom of the windsheild. With a hole trimmed with an Exacto-knife, everything was golden! Thanks for the tips guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted June 30, 2007 Report Share Posted June 30, 2007 told ya to cut away. sounds great. maybe I should add audio to a few of my cars... for real! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted June 30, 2007 Report Share Posted June 30, 2007 Im just sayin you could get away with 100 hz blockers and save some of the mid/lower end and have much richer sound. specially if you glass the door pods. but then you might as well go with some diamond 4 inch components or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted July 1, 2007 Report Share Posted July 1, 2007 Im just sayin you could get away with 100 hz blockers and save some of the mid/lower end and have much richer sound. specially if you glass the door pods. but then you might as well go with some diamond 4 inch components or something. agreed. glad to see you got it done, and i know it sounds a lot better. good work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottster Posted July 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2007 Im just sayin you could get away with 100 hz blockers and save some of the mid/lower end and have much richer sound. specially if you glass the door pods. but then you might as well go with some diamond 4 inch components or something. I figured the 6x9s in the rear could fill in the "lows" that are denied to the front speakers. Besides, I'm planning on gettin some bass in the trunk soon...which will certainly take care of those low tones. I'm sort of going backwards though from the "traditional" approach of getting the subs first. Alot of my friends have big bass with stock speakers....which IMO sounds like shit. I wanted to take care of all the other stuff first, and then do the bass thing to tie it all together. Anyway, here are pics of the speakers after they were put in... Drivers side Pass. side Dash board? What dash board? PS I removed the gauge pod to give it a little makeover...I'll have pics up of that soon too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted July 2, 2007 Report Share Posted July 2, 2007 Yeah, I was wondering why you removed the guage cluster to do just the dash speakers Looks good man... Hell, anything is better than the factory early w-body speakers... I used to have a set of those running on a Pioneer amp and they were pretty clean.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted July 2, 2007 Report Share Posted July 2, 2007 Im just sayin you could get away with 100 hz blockers and save some of the mid/lower end and have much richer sound. specially if you glass the door pods. but then you might as well go with some diamond 4 inch components or something. I figured the 6x9s in the rear could fill in the "lows" that are denied to the front speakers. Besides, I'm planning on gettin some bass in the trunk soon...which will certainly take care of those low tones. subs generally run in the 100mhz and below range(i have mine around 80). so installing 600mhz blockers means you are missing the 100-600 range, which is alot of mid. most of what you hear as the driver of the vehicle is your front speakers, so its best to set them up for the full range minus 100 and below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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