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Help! Painting a valence


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I have another valence sitting here that I need to prep and paint. It is in pretty good shape, except for the usual chip on the front tip of it, and it has a little bit of spiderwebbing in the paint. It is white, so I have to paint it anyway.

My question is: what should I do to prep and paint this thing up? I have already washed it and cleaned it with paint stripper, so it is as clean as it can possibly get right now. Any help is much appreciated!

Nick

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Like 400 grit I would say, then 600.

Is that all I have to do? Just 400 then 600? Should I prime it or just paint it up?

Thanks

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How are you painting it?

 

This is how I prepped my old trunklid that I shaved the lock: 200, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500. In all reality, if you are primering before painting, I wouldn't take it past 800-1000. Do a few layers of primer, sand between layers to clear imperfections. The last coat of primer, do the sandpapering up to 1500-2000 grit.

 

Then paint, do 1500 between layers.

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You should use a flex agent when painting plastic such as bumpers and stuff like that, that may be bent out of shape if an object hits them (just bumpig into something or leaning up against the car, etc..) though it isn't necessary.

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Ok I did the valence today... sanded it up, cleaned it again, then sprayed 2 coats of adhesion promoter/flex agent on it. Then I put 4 coats of paint on it. It turned out really well, but it got windy outside during my last coat of paint and I got a small run in the paint. What should I do to get rid of the run? I have NOT put clear coat on it yet.

Thanks

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I'm replacing the valence that is on the car now with a newer one that I'm painting right now. :high5: Yes, I have two valences.

 

Anyone know what I should do to get rid of the small paint run?

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i work at a shop and i paint cars everyday... you should definately 240 it until all of the spiderwebbing is gone. Then go over it with 400 to get the 240 scratches out. Then if you want you can prime it although you dont have to. the only time stuff needs to be primed is if there is bodywork of some sort done. You can just seal it, base it, then clear and it will be fine. you can base over 400 scratches just fine if you go up to 1500 it gets too smooth and there is nothing for it to bite into, you risk having the paint crack off do to poor adhesion. but either way if your dealing with plastic or rubber definately put a flex additive in the sealer or primer.

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and as for the run smooth it out with either 1000 or 1500 then base it one more time before the clear. keep in mind whatever kind of base you are using should cover up to 500 grit scratches. clear can only cover up to 800 so sand it with 1000 to get it out easy then rebase it to be safe

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I sanded the paint run and minor blemishes smooth today.... will put another couple coats on tomorrow then put lotsa clear on it :mrgreen: This is turning out awesome!

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