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Alright I've been struggling with this damn Heat Problem too long. I can start the car up and let it run for a while eventually it will get above the 210 Market. Now if my research is right the thermostat SHOULD open at 190 if I remember correctly. I can't determine if the Thermostat is opening or remainging closed or hell if its half opened and half closed. This evening I went out and started it up. The temp climbed and climbed. MY Cooling fan doesn't kick on until one ticke (3rd tick from bottom) The cooling fan kicks on etc. I tried to bleed the system thinking there was air in it, and it dribbled a little bit. I don't want to take that screw all the way out in fear that the coolant will burn my hand off.

 

Ive been watching my temp climb like crazy lately namely up hill and Im nervous one day Im going to be sitting in traffic. I did in fact change the water pump about 3 weeks ago, and I noticed it's leaking a little bit but surely thats not the root cause of my poblems because its literally a few drops.

 

It's a 1995 Grand Prix 3100 motor, Green Antifreeze.

 

I have a Thermostat already just haven't done the job because of whats involved (Removing the TB and air duct assemble then you only have access to one of the 2 bolts unless you take the exhaust thingy off that wraps aroudn.

 

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Its possible that the t-stat isnt opening, but if you feel the radiator hoses getting hot, then the t-stat is working. Its possible to still have air in there, but theres actually two parts to the bleeders. One, you can open the top with a flat-head. by doing it this way, youll be able to bleed the system and you wont burn yourself. If you open the botton with the 10mm wrench, youll be taking the bleeder out completely.

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Its possible that the t-stat isnt opening, but if you feel the radiator hoses getting hot, then the t-stat is working. Its possible to still have air in there, but theres actually two parts to the bleeders. One, you can open the top with a flat-head. by doing it this way, youll be able to bleed the system and you wont burn yourself. If you open the botton with the 10mm wrench, youll be taking the bleeder out completely.

 

Ah - Ive been using the 10 MM, you mean the Flat head will just do the screw only because I thought when turning any of that assembly it unscrews from the entire assembly? Im really affraid to remove the bleeder completly. The last time I did that I had Mt Saint Helens under my car hood as a 4 ft high shot of Anti Freeze shot out of the car LOL!!!!!

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If you use the 10mm, you will be removing the bleeder completely. By using the flat-head, youll be bleeding it, but by the top part ( which is the part thats suppose to be used ) this way you can see it coming out and it wont be anywhere near the mess that you had.

 

The bleeder is actually two parts. You wanna be using the top part with the flat-head like I mentioned.

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If you use the 10mm, you will be removing the bleeder completely. By using the flat-head, youll be bleeding it, but by the top part ( which is the part thats suppose to be used ) this way you can see it coming out and it wont be anywhere near the mess that you had.

 

The bleeder is actually two parts. You wanna be using the top part with the flat-head like I mentioned.

 

Damn dude Good Stuff!!! Thanks for the info.

 

Also - The other thing I noticed is I think my Water pump seal is toasted. You mentioned you think my Thermostat is working correctly if I can feel those hoses getting hot. Any other way to test to see if the Thermostat is working correctly? Also if I put a Flat Head on the Bleeder valve what do I do if the whole thing turns? Wrench it?

 

 

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I don't think there is an other definite way to test a thermostat while it is still in the car. I know you can take it out of the car and boil it in water and see if it opens and closes or not. But, for what..$15? You can just put a new one in for good measure.

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I don't think there is an other definite way to test a thermostat while it is still in the car. I know you can take it out of the car and boil it in water and see if it opens and closes or not. But, for what..$15? You can just put a new one in for good measure.

 

Agreed - If I goto that extent its getting replaced regardless. In all reality I have the new one just scared to take all that stuff out of there. the car has 200k on it something is BOUND to break on its way out :(

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I don't think there is an other definite way to test a thermostat while it is still in the car. I know you can take it out of the car and boil it in water and see if it opens and closes or not. But, for what..$15? You can just put a new one in for good measure.

 

Agreed - If I goto that extent its getting replaced regardless. In all reality I have the new one just scared to take all that stuff out of there. the car has 200k on it something is BOUND to break on its way out :(

 

Just make sure you have a new TB gasket on hand... I think you'll be fine as long as the engine is cool and you are careful. The T-stat job isn't all that hard on the 3100's.

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I got my new Gasket for the Water pump The zone lady said that the Blue FTV would be better to use. (someone suggested Ultra Gray) Im assuming the Blue will work? Im starting with that.

 

One question, Ive heard people talking that they didn't need to remove the TB to do the Thermostat. Is it possible to get around it? And is it safe?

 

I also haven't bled my system using the "Screw" Ive only taken the breakthher completely out so Im going to try the other thing as well.

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It is possible, but probably a royal pain in the ass. Just remove the tb, it's two bolts. You will need to remove the throttle cable bracket, thats 3 bolts. You will then have TONS more access to the thermostat housing.

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It is possible, but probably a royal pain in the ass. Just remove the tb, it's two bolts. You will need to remove the throttle cable bracket, thats 3 bolts. You will then have TONS more access to the thermostat housing.

 

Anyone have pics of these cables? The bracket doesn't scare me the Cables and shit do :(

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Dont disconnect the cables. Just unbolt everything and swing it all out of the way.

 

Gah? Okay I need pictures! :) Anyone got the hookage? Im okay going to do this one :)

 

 

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It's not hard. 2 bolts on top of the TB, one bolt underneath the throttle linkage cables. Then, 2 bolts that hold the TB on, one at each corner. There will be a few sensors to unplug, and a few vacuum lines to pull out, and thats about it. Shouldn't take no more than 10-15 minutes.

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It's not hard. 2 bolts on top of the TB, one bolt underneath the throttle linkage cables. Then, 2 bolts that hold the TB on, one at each corner. There will be a few sensors to unplug, and a few vacuum lines to pull out, and thats about it. Shouldn't take no more than 10-15 minutes.

 

I just don't know what Im looking for. The Bracket is a piece of cake from the looks of it. This bolt underneath and the other two Im lost?

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I was going to post a new topic on this but will Blue RTV Work for this water pump? Ive been told Gray or Black but Blue is what they suggested. Also do I put it on the pump or the gasket? then do the other side of the gasket or the housing for it? Then I know do the entire outside of it after its seated correct?

 

 

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Let the RTV sit overnight... or atleast a day...

 

With the Blue kind work? Also Im guessing the best way is to take the water pump off the car, RTV the Pump itself. Stick the Gasket on let that sit over night then RTV the housing for itput it on let it sit over night before reassembling the belt structure?

 

 

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