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Here is a weird one for ya.


supreme

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Ok get this,

 

For the past few months, i have been having trouble starting my car at times. I have braught it into 2 mechanics and they have no idea. (Mainly due to the fact it working normal for them). They did a diagnostic scan on it, and it does come up with a code 34 Map Sensor. However they tried replacing it, and it still came up. So all in all, both mechanics do not know the problem. The last one suggested it could be the fuel pump.

 

So since then, i have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, and have put one fuel injector cleaner through. The car still acts up.

 

But for these months that it has acted up, i now know it has only acted up between the hours of 630-730pm everyday. For that hour, it does not start, it cranks, but doesnt catch. I drive it an hour to and from work everyday, it works fine, its just that hour. Any ideas on what this could be?

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Check the fuel pressure regulator. If it is not holding pressure while the car is off, than after a little bit of time, it would require a couple more cranks to build that pressure back up again, and thus delay your starting time.

 

Then again , it could be gremlins......

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If its still reading a MAP code, check the vacuum line at the TB, make sure its on good. Then if that is good, take the vacuum line off the MAP while the car is at idle, you should feel a pretty good suction. If not, the vacuum line is probably broken, check that out

 

Robby

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trouble starting like sometimes it will work then sometimes not well if that is the way it acts then it is your starter solenoid which is like 15 bucks so maybe it is that my 2 cents or your ignition module but i believe it would not let you start it up so best bet is the solenoid

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  • 3 weeks later...

UPDATE - still need help!!

 

Many dollars later i now know its not the following

 

fuel pump

map sensor

ecm

crank sensor

fuel filter

ignition module

 

It is stalling more often now, and it even stalls/doesnt start when its cool/warm. So that throws my idea that its a heat issue out.

 

Currently my mechanic does not know whats wrong with it, but on monday he will take it for a spin with an scanner again, maybe it will read a different code. I asked it if it could be a fuel injector, he said that wouldnt stop it from starting as there are others to back up on.

 

 

Any advise would help,

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You replaced the Ignition Module..ok But did you check the coil paks with an adjustable ignition tester???.. The coils might be weak.. It could also be the connector at the Ignition Module... It could have a loose connection.

 

Man, that must be fustrating.

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I asked about the ignitioni coils, my mechanic said it wouldnt be that as there are 3 of them, it wouldnt stall the engine.

 

Anyway, he has tried another ignition coil, just incase there was something wrong the first one. But it still fails. He has no other ideas what it could be. So i am stuck again.

 

Any ideas out there?

 

Someone told me it could be an emmision valve? Anyone agree to this or know exactly what part i have to look at? How hard is it to test or replace this part? And is that whats its called... emmission valve?

 

Thanks in advance

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I asked it if it could be a fuel injector, he said that wouldnt stop it from starting as there are others to back up on.

 

When my injectors went, even if one stopped working, the ECM would shut down the whole car. I would look into injectors.

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Dude not sure what to tell ya cause my girls car is doing the same thing and won't start at all. I did the code test by jumping the wires and got nothing but I also tried to start it with the wires jumped and it tried to but wouldn't stay running. If I find anything I will let you know and I hope you could do the same for me. :?

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this is fucked, i will do some research and i will let you 2 know what i come up with!

fuck i knwo

!

take off you pcv valve!!!!! just take of the line, i mean the one at the rear valve cover, try that

 

now i think of it, my moms saturn had the same problem, take the vacuume line off the pcv valve and it started, but the moment you replace it it dies, also my sisters old dynasty does that sometimes!!!

 

 

fuck yea, thats got to be it, and ill tell you one thing about mechanics, unless you one and not like the rest, they dont use theyre brain to think off thigns , they think what we sughest wouldnt be it, but more times than not, we are right, the just dont believe us, they do not follow the simple rule, KISS, keep it simple stupid

 

good luck

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  • 2 weeks later...

pcv valve huh.

 

Thats inexpensive and should be fairly easy to replace.

what do they go for $10?

 

So you think replacing the pcv valve and a new o-ring may fix my problem? Has anyone else heard of this or agree?

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best way to check your pcv valve is to pop it out and shake it if it rattles or makes clunking sounds its good if not it is frozen and replace it it might be it

 

one else had that problem?

 

good luck

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Well i have replaced the pcv valve with a new one, and it's still acting up.

 

I was thinking of buying a scan tool to see what codes i can pull up, because mechanics never have my car long enough for it to pull up a code. I have a 95 Grand prix SE 3.1L. Anyone know a good scan tool to get? I noticed the good obd II ones you can buy are 1996 and up, is there anything i can do with my 95?

 

I have tried a paper clip to see if i can flash my codes on my dash, but it doesnt work.

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