Wiring pic in 1st post. Getting it fixed in 2 days! FIXED. See page 2

[Q-Ball]

Edit, getting to the bottom of this on Monday!

 

 

 

I got all my speakers connected in my car finally. Here's the run down.

 

- Pioneer DEF 5800 HU

- 2x MTX 4x6's in the front dash

- 2x Infinitiy 5 1/4's in the doors

- 2x Infinity Tweerers attatched to the doors

- 2x Stock tweeters in the doors

- 2x Infinity 6x9's in the rear dash pad

- 1x 12" Pioneer Preimer Sub in a sealed box

- 1x 800 Watt Kenwood 2 Channel amp (Only Sub is connected to this)

 

I've noticed when I turn up the music the sub will cut out. Everyone told me I had loose wires, but I knew they were wrong. So I put my music up and opened my trunk and watched the sub. My light on the kenwood amp would flicker (on and off) to the beat. It seems as if there isnt enough power to my sub. Does this sound right? A few of my friends have Caps and I was wondering if I need these too?

[w-bodys_are_the_best]

What size wire are you using? I recommend 4 guage if you don't already have it. You should also make sure you have a good solid ground. I use 4 guage all the way to the trunk, once in the trunk I have it ran into a power distrobution block so it's split into 2- 8 guage wires, so the amp will clamp better, and I have 2- 8 guage grounds also. In my cutlass, I used run a Kicker Comp VR 15" on a 1200 watt Power Acoustik Gothic Series amp, and I also had a 400 watt amp running my Infinity Kappa 6953i's with a high pass filter. I never had a problem with it cutting out, and had no cap, and a normal 3100 alternator. I now have the same setup minus the 400 watt amp in the cav, and have no problems. At one time I had my 1200 watt amp, and another 1200 watt amp both hooked up with 2 of my friend's 12" JL's , I ran that setup for 3 weeks and never had any problems at all.

[CSI_MuNkY]

I told you man, its not a power problem, I promis you that there is a bad wire somewhere in the system. Your running half the system I am and I don't have problems. Just because the light on the amp is going down doesn't mean a thing, it would also confirm that you have a bad connection! If you were using too much power your interior lights would dim, as would your head lights.

 

What are you using for a ground?

 

Jamie

[Q-Ball]

Its 4 gage from the battery as well as ground. I'm grounded to my rear bumper mounts, its right beside the power antenna.

[FordBoy]

even out the watts how much does the amp push? how much do the subs need? it sounds like the amp is to weak for the subs

[CSI_MuNkY]

nah, thats not it, I have the same amp (800W Kenwood) running 2 10" RF P2 subs with no problems, he is running one 12" Pioneer Premier sub, I somehow doubt its lack of power in the amp.

 

I say its a bad ground, if the connection wasn't wire wheeled and you just put it over paint you might only get power when the connector comes into contact with a small amount of bare metal. Use your seat mount bolt (I know you can pull your seats in about 30 seconds, if they aren't already out of the car) Wire wheel the seat mounting surface on the body and clamp the connector between the seat mount and the body. I bet the problem goes away! If I'm right you gotta give me those borlas

 

Jamie

[slick]

First and foremost, how in the holy hell do you have all of those speakers wired in??!!! Thats your major problem, you've probably got them wired down in such low ohm that the HU is putting out a bad signal, causing all the distortion and horrible sound. The HU's speaker output is only 4 ohm, and will only handle so much. Really, anything more than 4 speakers(unless you have crossovers) running off of your HU is not good.

 

even out the watts how much does the amp push? how much do the subs need? it sounds like the amp is to weak for the subs

 

Very wrong, the subs won't cause the amp to go into protection, like he is stating above, unless they are wired into an Ohm load that the amplifier cannot handle. And, usually the amp can handle it, but your gain is probably incorrectly set, causing it to go into protection mode.

 

Bumper mount ground? Make sure it's not rusty, most every W I have looked at has very rusty bumpers(underneath the bumper covers). I can't imagine that the bolts are any better. Oh, and DO NOT USE A SEAT BOLT!!! They are usually zinc coated, which is not good for making contact to the body for a ground!!!!

 

Caps are really only a crutch for your electrical system. Your going to have almost no gain from a cap. I've even posted up graphs before to show this. I can find it again if I need to. You really need to upgrade your electrical system. Gel Cell or Dry Cell battery, do the Big3/Big5 upgrade, and your electrical system will like you a bit more.

 

I told you man, its not a power problem, I promis you that there is a bad wire somewhere in the system. Your running half the system I am and I don't have problems. Just because the light on the amp is going down doesn't mean a thing, it would also confirm that you have a bad connection!

 

Not true. Most decent amplifiers will throw themselves into protect mode (so they don't blow themselves up) if they subs are wire incorrectly, or if the subs are on there way out(generally, speakers on there way out really start to ohm out at really high ohm's, this will cause the amp to put out different amounts of power).

 

 

 

Personally, out of all of this, sounds to me like you need to redo your system. Sounds like the amplifier for your sub, the gain is set to high. Your signal from the amplifier may be horrible as well, since you have like 5 billion speakers running through it. That'll cut down how much power the HU can put out per speaker lead AND through the audio outputs(what you hook your amp up to). Also, you need to get rid of the stock crap. Your just holding yourself back, and causing more problems. With the aftermarket stuff, you need to either just run 4 speakers off of your HU and ditch the rest, or start amplifying more of the speakers.

 

Either way, sounds like you have a nice sized job ahead of ya.

[CSI_MuNkY]

Oh, and DO NOT USE A SEAT BOLT!!! They are usually zinc coated, which is not good for making contact to the body for a ground!!!!

 

I've yet to have any problems with using the seat bolt (not a seat belt bolt, those ARE zinc coated, passing electricity through the disimilar metals will cause corrosion which would likely end up in a lost connection over time) I have no corrosion or anything to point towards dissimilar metals, the actual seat mounts are not zinc coated, at least not mine, they are bare stamped sheet metal. I have also yet to hear any signs of a bad connection, and my subs have been installed for nearly a year now. I know other people have used the seat bolts as grounds as well.

 

Short of drilling and tapping another hole, what bolt would you recommend he use?

 

Jamie

[slick]

I always just use a self tapping screw, and make my own ground. But, you can use a strut tower bolt as well.

[89GPSE]

How big of a fuse are you running. I see all to often people matching their fuse to the amp, but this is wrong. Your amp has built in fuses for that, you should always use the largest fuse you power wire can handle. So in you case with 4ga wire you should have it fused with a 150amp fuse, other than that make sure you have a good ground. I always use a self taping bolt and make my own ground, it is the only way to be 100% sure. After you make sure you are supplying it with a good clean source of power and ground we can diagnose the problem if one still is there.

[FordBoy]

How big of a fuse are you running. I see all to often people matching their fuse to the amp, but this is wrong. Your amp has built in fuses for that, you should always use the largest fuse you power wire can handle. So in you case with 4ga wire you should have it fused with a 150amp fuse, other than that make sure you have a good ground. I always use a self taping bolt and make my own ground, it is the only way to be 100% sure. After you make sure you are supplying it with a good clean source of power and ground we can diagnose the problem if one still is there.

not every amp has fuses in the amp the fuse you put in the amp should be the one specified by the manufacturer

[Q-Ball]

nah, thats not it, I have the same amp (800W Kenwood) running 2 10" RF P2 subs with no problems, he is running one 12" Pioneer Premier sub, I somehow doubt its lack of power in the amp.

 

I say its a bad ground, if the connection wasn't wire wheeled and you just put it over paint you might only get power when the connector comes into contact with a small amount of bare metal. Use your seat mount bolt (I know you can pull your seats in about 30 seconds, if they aren't already out of the car) Wire wheel the seat mounting surface on the body and clamp the connector between the seat mount and the body. I bet the problem goes away! If I'm right you gotta give me those borlas

 

Jamie

 

I'll try swapping the ground when I get back in town.

 

First and foremost, how in the holy hell do you have all of those speakers wired in??!!! Thats your major problem, you've probably got them wired down in such low ohm that the HU is putting out a bad signal, causing all the distortion and horrible sound. The HU's speaker output is only 4 ohm, and will only handle so much. Really, anything more than 4 speakers(unless you have crossovers) running off of your HU is not good.

 

even out the watts how much does the amp push? how much do the subs need? it sounds like the amp is to weak for the subs

 

Very wrong, the subs won't cause the amp to go into protection, like he is stating above, unless they are wired into an Ohm load that the amplifier cannot handle. And, usually the amp can handle it, but your gain is probably incorrectly set, causing it to go into protection mode.

 

Bumper mount ground? Make sure it's not rusty, most every W I have looked at has very rusty bumpers(underneath the bumper covers). I can't imagine that the bolts are any better. Oh, and DO NOT USE A SEAT BOLT!!! They are usually zinc coated, which is not good for making contact to the body for a ground!!!!

 

Caps are really only a crutch for your electrical system. Your going to have almost no gain from a cap. I've even posted up graphs before to show this. I can find it again if I need to. You really need to upgrade your electrical system. Gel Cell or Dry Cell battery, do the Big3/Big5 upgrade, and your electrical system will like you a bit more.

 

I told you man, its not a power problem, I promis you that there is a bad wire somewhere in the system. Your running half the system I am and I don't have problems. Just because the light on the amp is going down doesn't mean a thing, it would also confirm that you have a bad connection!

 

Not true. Most decent amplifiers will throw themselves into protect mode (so they don't blow themselves up) if they subs are wire incorrectly, or if the subs are on there way out(generally, speakers on there way out really start to ohm out at really high ohm's, this will cause the amp to put out different amounts of power).

 

 

 

Personally, out of all of this, sounds to me like you need to redo your system. Sounds like the amplifier for your sub, the gain is set to high. Your signal from the amplifier may be horrible as well, since you have like 5 billion speakers running through it. That'll cut down how much power the HU can put out per speaker lead AND through the audio outputs(what you hook your amp up to). Also, you need to get rid of the stock crap. Your just holding yourself back, and causing more problems. With the aftermarket stuff, you need to either just run 4 speakers off of your HU and ditch the rest, or start amplifying more of the speakers.

 

Either way, sounds like you have a nice sized job ahead of ya.

 

 

I fogot to mention I do have the crossovers for the Tweeters and woofer in the doors. It comes with the Inifinty Refernce componets. Also the big 3 upgrade sounds like a good idea too. The 88-93 GP's Have dash speakers, where the 94-96 dont. The only stock speaker is the tweeter in the doors. Dave was telling me I should get another amp for the rear speakers (Thats what he was using before I got them)

 

I'll make a wiring diagram in paint in a bit to show you.

 

How big of a fuse are you running. I see all to often people matching their fuse to the amp, but this is wrong. Your amp has built in fuses for that, you should always use the largest fuse you power wire can handle. So in you case with 4ga wire you should have it fused with a 150amp fuse, other than that make sure you have a good ground. I always use a self taping bolt and make my own ground, it is the only way to be 100% sure. After you make sure you are supplying it with a good clean source of power and ground we can diagnose the problem if one still is there.

 

I'm not 100% sure, but its the same as Jamie's.

 

How big of a fuse are you running. I see all to often people matching their fuse to the amp, but this is wrong. Your amp has built in fuses for that, you should always use the largest fuse you power wire can handle. So in you case with 4ga wire you should have it fused with a 150amp fuse, other than that make sure you have a good ground. I always use a self taping bolt and make my own ground, it is the only way to be 100% sure. After you make sure you are supplying it with a good clean source of power and ground we can diagnose the problem if one still is there.

not every amp has fuses in the amp the fuse you put in the amp should be the one specified by the manufacturer

 

Yeah its the stock ones that came with it.

[slick]

First off, those components and the rear's running off the same channel, not good. It's probably most of the reason why the music coming out of your HU sounds like total hell. Either completely ditch the rear speakers, or just run them off of the HU and amplify your component speakers. In fact, I would ditch the 4x6's also. Run the components off of your front output, 6x9's off of the rear output. And, if that stock tweeter is hooked up, get rid of it.

 

Remember, more isn't better.

[Q-Ball]

Its not that it sounds like hell, its sounds pretty good. It's just the sub cuts out. Also, on my HU it has 3 sets of rca's. 1 for rear output, 1 for sub, and I forget the other one. But how do you go from RCA ti wires that are soldered? Do I just cut the other RCA plugs off and solder them to the speakers?

 

And I was talking to Dave, and he came up with this. He had a small kenwood amp he was powering for his rears, but he told me to do this.

 

[slick]

No, you don't want to just cut RCA's and hook them up to you speakers, you need to amplify.

 

The above will work, but I really hope that those dash speakers won't kill your imaging.

 

People that really care about SQ, they usually have 8" woofers(not subwoofers but woofers) in the kickpanels. Then usually a 3 way setup in the doors(6.5-7, 4-5.25, then a tweeter). No dash speakers, and generally no rear speakers. There is usually 1 sub in the trunk(you only hear sound behind you in mono anyways, so why worry about having tons of speakers behind you??).

 

Personally, I think that you have too much going on. But, when it comes to how you want to listen to it, and how it sounds, thats really gonna be your call on the end.

 

As for your subs cutting out. Start by turning down the gain. If that doesn't help, then you need to make sure that your subs are not on there way out(if they are going, the resistance value will be off from what it should be new).

[Q-Ball]

Ok, cause me and dave are going to wire this up sometime next week. I just want a decent sound. Clear with a bit of tight bass. I was more into hometheature hi-fi, but now I just want some decent audio in my car. I dont want to go crazy or anything. Just something to enjoy my car with and be a few steps above from stock cars these days.

[Q-Ball]

Were fixing it this Monday! Hurray!

[boulevard]

If I can throw in my two cents because this is similar to what was wrong with my system.

 

You’re running a single "dual voice coil sub" right? You have to be running a small amp or the constant ohm from your amp is mismatched to what the sub needs to run, known as a constant ohm. This typically is not a problem for the previous single voice coiled subwoofers you had before because they will run under almost any type of constant ohm and amperage. Dual voice coil subs need a bit more attention and definitely more finessing. As for the constant ohm, each sub this is different but try and find out what "constant ohm" you should be providing through the amp to properly power that sub.

Once I did this, I never again threw the fuse in my Kenwood Amp, which was very hard to find. Turning down the gain would help also.

I googled it and this is what I found, the amp your running is "4-ohm stable in bridged mode"

I googled the sub and it runs under a required "2 ohm" in a bridged mode, which is typical. Here is your miss matching ohm situation.

 

The following is a run through of my recommended setup for your car. (please do not ignore, took me a long to type out)

If you install that second smaller amp you should run a 4ga power wire from the battery (you will need a side mount battery adapter) to the trunk.

At the trunk, use a small distribution power block, 4ga. input with (2) 8ga outputs, both fused. This seems small but it will run both amps without any problems.

 

Wire the front dash 4x6s directly to your HU using the front channel wires. Wire the doors directly to your HU using the rear channel wires, you can keep running the components and the tweeters with this.

Run two sets of RCA cables to the trunk on your passenger side. Label each end before running to avoid time testing which is which, SUB and REAR. You should already have the remote cable from your HU and the power wire running through your driver side of the car.

 

Mount your amps and connect the power wire, RCAs, remote and ground wires.

Wire the 6x9s directly to the smaller amp. Amp should be using the REAR rca cables.

Wire the sub directly to the larger amp (as a bridged configuration if not a mono amp) - Amp should be using the SUB rca cables.

 

Depending where your amps are mounted, you should ground them independently using a self tapping screw or bolt (I personally believe that US Americans and that, such as, bolt idea is overkill, ha ha). Tap the screw into the "boxed" frame of your car. To find this, look under your car, under the trunk. You should see a boxed out frame piece running along your spare tire well. This is where you want to screw into. Keep this ground wire as SHORT as possible. 8ga should work just fine.

 

ATTENTION

if you keep the same amp, turn down the gain. Your not going to hit as hard as the 2 10" RF you once had because of the ohms. If you try to really pound that system its going to keep going into protection mode or you'll keep popping that fuse (like I did).

 

GOOD LUCK! I hope you take something from this.

 

One more thing, leave everything how it is. Swap subwoofer boxes and rewire your 10" RF back in there. Try the system (as is) once again. I bet the amp will run fine. If it does operate properly, well now you know your problem, swap the amp for a 2 ohm constant amp.

 

[Garrett Powered]

Ok, cause me and dave are going to wire this up sometime next week. I just want a decent sound. Clear with a bit of tight bass. I was more into hometheature hi-fi, but now I just want some decent audio in my car. I dont want to go crazy or anything. Just something to enjoy my car with and be a few steps above from stock cars these days.

 

you want clear tight bass, very understandable.

 

people here talk about sq systems and have suggestions of what they think should be done to achieve that..

 

 

does not matter the number of or size unless they are sealed in the proper amount of airspace. tuning a driver to a box/pod will seriously increase its performance. you will be very surprized at the output of loud tight bass that comes from a 6 " woofer. edit: you still need a sub.

 

it will be difficult to do better than the stock system by only changing out the drivers. even if you spend a couple hundred, it may even sound worse than stock. stock is actually pretty good sound quality, although low power handling.

[my95z34]

Ok, with your system, does it go into protect as soon as you turn it up? Or is it after awhile it starts cutting out? Because with my crappy 1000w Sony Xplode amp, if I run it bridged to my 2 12's, after about 15 min of pounding the amp gets pretty damn hot and starts cutting out every now and then. It'll run fine with easy bass, but if it hits hard, like the middle of the bass note will cut out and the temp light on the amp will flick on. Then after the note is over the light will turn back off, and it'll be fine.

 

So, idk if thats what's happening to you, but figured I'd put in my little situation.

 

GL

[boulevard]

Ok, with your system, does it go into protect as soon as you turn it up? Or is it after awhile it starts cutting out? Because with my crappy 1000w Sony Xplode amp, if I run it bridged to my 2 12's, after about 15 min of pounding the amp gets pretty damn hot and starts cutting out every now and then. It'll run fine with easy bass, but if it hits hard, like the middle of the bass note will cut out and the temp light on the amp will flick on. Then after the note is over the light will turn back off, and it'll be fine.

 

So, idk if thats what's happening to you, but figured I'd put in my little situation.

 

GL

 

my95z34,

 

Im not sure who you are talking to but I have the same situation where the amp cuts out at heavy bass loads. Thats normal for crappy amps like the one Im running for my 10" Kenwood Execelon subwoofers. This 1,000W Kenwood amp is a cheapy from Best Buy. I knew it would do this but I couldn't get enought cash at the time to get a good Kenwood Execelon Amp. It would of costed me twice as much. His amp is going into protect mode. Im sure it wont come out of protect mode until the power is killed to the amp either pulling the fuse or shutting off the car. He never really state that. His problem is with the ohms, I'm absoluty positive. He was running single voice coil subs before and everything was fine. Now he's running a 12" dual voice coil sub and it's been giving him problems. He thought it would run fine because he thought,"if this amp could run two 10" subs with loud bass, imagine what it could do with one 12" sub" I don't think he knew much about the "ohm stable" spec was for the amp, and what ohm that sub needs to run under.

[boulevard]

Were fixing it this Monday! Hurray!

 

Which Pioneer Premier sub is it?

TS-W2501D2 which is D2: (1 or 4 ohm) depending on how its wired

TS-W2501D4 which is D4: (2 or 8 ohm) depending on how its wired

TS-W8102SPL which is DVC (1ohm or 4ohm)

 

The Kenwood 800W amp is 2 ohm stable. So you should be running the TS-W2501D4.

[Q-Ball]

If I can throw in my two cents because this is similar to what was wrong with my system.

 

You’re running a single "dual voice coil sub" right? You have to be running a small amp or the constant ohm from your amp is mismatched to what the sub needs to run, known as a constant ohm. This typically is not a problem for the previous single voice coiled subwoofers you had before because they will run under almost any type of constant ohm and amperage. Dual voice coil subs need a bit more attention and definitely more finessing. As for the constant ohm, each sub this is different but try and find out what "constant ohm" you should be providing through the amp to properly power that sub.

Once I did this, I never again threw the fuse in my Kenwood Amp, which was very hard to find. Turning down the gain would help also.

I googled it and this is what I found, the amp your running is "4-ohm stable in bridged mode"

I googled the sub and it runs under a required "2 ohm" in a bridged mode, which is typical. Here is your miss matching ohm situation.

 

The following is a run through of my recommended setup for your car. (please do not ignore, took me a long to type out)

If you install that second smaller amp you should run a 4ga power wire from the battery (you will need a side mount battery adapter) to the trunk.

At the trunk, use a small distribution power block, 4ga. input with (2) 8ga outputs, both fused. This seems small but it will run both amps without any problems.

 

Wire the front dash 4x6s directly to your HU using the front channel wires. Wire the doors directly to your HU using the rear channel wires, you can keep running the components and the tweeters with this.

Run two sets of RCA cables to the trunk on your passenger side. Label each end before running to avoid time testing which is which, SUB and REAR. You should already have the remote cable from your HU and the power wire running through your driver side of the car.

 

Mount your amps and connect the power wire, RCAs, remote and ground wires.

Wire the 6x9s directly to the smaller amp. Amp should be using the REAR rca cables.

Wire the sub directly to the larger amp (as a bridged configuration if not a mono amp) - Amp should be using the SUB rca cables.

 

Depending where your amps are mounted, you should ground them independently using a self tapping screw or bolt (I personally believe that US Americans and that, such as, bolt idea is overkill, ha ha). Tap the screw into the "boxed" frame of your car. To find this, look under your car, under the trunk. You should see a boxed out frame piece running along your spare tire well. This is where you want to screw into. Keep this ground wire as SHORT as possible. 8ga should work just fine.

 

ATTENTION

if you keep the same amp, turn down the gain. Your not going to hit as hard as the 2 10" RF you once had because of the ohms. If you try to really pound that system its going to keep going into protection mode or you'll keep popping that fuse (like I did).

 

GOOD LUCK! I hope you take something from this.

 

One more thing, leave everything how it is. Swap subwoofer boxes and rewire your 10" RF back in there. Try the system (as is) once again. I bet the amp will run fine. If it does operate properly, well now you know your problem, swap the amp for a 2 ohm constant amp.

 

 

You got my confused with Jamie. He has 2 RF 10"s. I've only an always had the 12" Pioneer Premier Sub. It was actually a full system pull from Daves 1995 Grand Prix that he was using.

 

We were debating about using the small amp for the rear 6x9's but thats what he did and he said it didnt do much. He said I want to hear better clarity from my front componets on the doors and thats why I should amp it there.

 

Ok, cause me and dave are going to wire this up sometime next week. I just want a decent sound. Clear with a bit of tight bass. I was more into hometheature hi-fi, but now I just want some decent audio in my car. I dont want to go crazy or anything. Just something to enjoy my car with and be a few steps above from stock cars these days.

 

you want clear tight bass, very understandable.

 

people here talk about sq systems and have suggestions of what they think should be done to achieve that..

 

 

does not matter the number of or size unless they are sealed in the proper amount of airspace. tuning a driver to a box/pod will seriously increase its performance. you will be very surprized at the output of loud tight bass that comes from a 6 " woofer. edit: you still need a sub.

 

it will be difficult to do better than the stock system by only changing out the drivers. even if you spend a couple hundred, it may even sound worse than stock. stock is actually pretty good sound quality, although low power handling.

 

Well as of now I have 2x JBL's 4x6s in the dash

a set of infinity componets (5" and tweeter on each door)

a set of infinitys 6x9's in the rear deck

an 800 Watt Kenwood Amp

1 12" Pioneer Premier in a sealed box.

 

And a 250 Kenwood amp to use for my componets

Ok, with your system, does it go into protect as soon as you turn it up? Or is it after awhile it starts cutting out? Because with my crappy 1000w Sony Xplode amp, if I run it bridged to my 2 12's, after about 15 min of pounding the amp gets pretty damn hot and starts cutting out every now and then. It'll run fine with easy bass, but if it hits hard, like the middle of the bass note will cut out and the temp light on the amp will flick on. Then after the note is over the light will turn back off, and it'll be fine.

 

So, idk if thats what's happening to you, but figured I'd put in my little situation.

 

GL

 

Ok, with your system, does it go into protect as soon as you turn it up? Or is it after awhile it starts cutting out? Because with my crappy 1000w Sony Xplode amp, if I run it bridged to my 2 12's, after about 15 min of pounding the amp gets pretty damn hot and starts cutting out every now and then. It'll run fine with easy bass, but if it hits hard, like the middle of the bass note will cut out and the temp light on the amp will flick on. Then after the note is over the light will turn back off, and it'll be fine.

 

So, idk if thats what's happening to you, but figured I'd put in my little situation.

 

GL

 

my95z34,

 

Im not sure who you are talking to but I have the same situation where the amp cuts out at heavy bass loads. Thats normal for crappy amps like the one Im running for my 10" Kenwood Execelon subwoofers. This 1,000W Kenwood amp is a cheapy from Best Buy. I knew it would do this but I couldn't get enought cash at the time to get a good Kenwood Execelon Amp. It would of costed me twice as much. His amp is going into protect mode. Im sure it wont come out of protect mode until the power is killed to the amp either pulling the fuse or shutting off the car. He never really state that. His problem is with the ohms, I'm absoluty positive. He was running single voice coil subs before and everything was fine. Now he's running a 12" dual voice coil sub and it's been giving him problems. He thought it would run fine because he thought,"if this amp could run two 10" subs with loud bass, imagine what it could do with one 12" sub" I don't think he knew much about the "ohm stable" spec was for the amp, and what ohm that sub needs to run under.

 

Were fixing it this Monday! Hurray!

 

Which Pioneer Premier sub is it?

TS-W2501D2 which is D2: (1 or 4 ohm) depending on how its wired

TS-W2501D4 which is D4: (2 or 8 ohm) depending on how its wired

TS-W8102SPL which is DVC (1ohm or 4ohm)

 

The Kenwood 800W amp is 2 ohm stable. So you should be running the TS-W2501D4.

 

I'd have to pull it out and check. BUT!

 

Got the problem fixed. It was 12v line to the power antenna. Once we disconnected that from the Deck it was alive again!

 

I still gotta take apart my doors and run the small 250watt kenwood to the componets. Dave told me to run my 2nd set of RCA wires from the deck > 250 Watt Kenwood > Componets. And that should make a world of difference.

[Ryan from Ohio]

There is way to much to read.

 

The problem with the amp going into protection is due to your wiring, simple.

 

Your ground is no sufficient.

 

Your Under Hood wiring needs upgraded also.

 

THe amplifier is more than likely going into protection and/or shutting off due to the voltage sagging below its threshold.

 

Simply put, the power is getting choked off somewhere.

 

It could be your ground sucks. It could be your transmission ground suck. It could be the positive wire from the alternator to battery sucks (big issues hear!).

 

Upgrade your Big 3. If that doesnt do it find a new grounding point. Someplace with some meat to it.

 

Also as Slick mentioned, a set of speakers HAS to go or you need another amplifier. The way you are set up, there is no good solution!

[Q-Ball]

There is way to much to read.

 

The problem with the amp going into protection is due to your wiring, simple.

 

Your ground is no sufficient.

 

Your Under Hood wiring needs upgraded also.

 

THe amplifier is more than likely going into protection and/or shutting off due to the voltage sagging below its threshold.

 

Simply put, the power is getting choked off somewhere.

 

It could be your ground sucks. It could be your transmission ground suck. It could be the positive wire from the alternator to battery sucks (big issues hear!).

 

Upgrade your Big 3. If that doesnt do it find a new grounding point. Someplace with some meat to it.

 

Also as Slick mentioned, a set of speakers HAS to go or you need another amplifier. The way you are set up, there is no good solution!

 

Your right you didnt read at all. The problem was the power wire to the antenna and I have a small 250 Kenwood amp for my door componets. The problem was fixed when we disconnected the power wire to the antenna from the deck.