Q-Ball Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 I'm ready to give up here guys. I had this problem last year and it was solved with a new rebuilt starter. So today I did a bunch of work. I took out the starter and brought it to canadian tire and had it tested. My original plan was to try and get it swapped for a 3400 starter, but they want $399 for one. They only have new ones, no rebuilt ones. Anyways, the starter was good. But I heard the guy make it click a few times and he said it was due to a wire not touching. So he should me with it connected and it worked fine. So, I thought ok, maybe a bad connection. So I took the starter home and used my wire wheel on all the connections. I started the car, turn it off (was going to do an idle re learn) than I went to turn it back on and it gave me the damn click noise. I got it to start again, but god this is annoying. I also had the PCM replaced not too long ago either. Not sure if that has anything to do with it. I also made sure the connections were clean and tight too. Any idea's guys? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 Seeing as your not answering on MSN, check your aux cable mount, I've had that go bad a few times now, if its been happening since we installed your subs that connection coul dneed cleaning up. Other than that, Call up TC auto and see what they say and what it might cost to diagnos. Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 mine did that a lot last summer, but it has only done it once this summer. usually, after i unlock with my remote, it usually wants to click until i hit the brake to disable the lights being on from the remote (its aftermarket) and then it usually starts right up. I'm not sure why mine does it, but for now it's been reliable, so hopefully it stays that way. last summer it seemed to want to do it a lot when hot, but its been in the 80s all week and ive been driving a lot, and its been fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron350 Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 Clip a 12 volt test lamp from the Purple starter wire to ground and see if you have stable 12 volts at the starter when you turn the key. If the bulb is dim you have problems between the purple wire and the ignition switch. On my 96 that includes the pass key relay, not sure about yours. If the bulb is bright the problem is with the starter or supplying 12 volts to the starter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89GP_SE Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 I had the same problem with my olds not too long ago, I found out it was the bolt/screws for the battery cables for the batter, I went and bought new ones for 4 bucks, tightened them really good and worked good since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted May 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 Seeing as your not answering on MSN, check your aux cable mount, I've had that go bad a few times now, if its been happening since we installed your subs that connection coul dneed cleaning up. Other than that, Call up TC auto and see what they say and what it might cost to diagnos. Jamie Checked that, I actually re attatched that cable. I got rid of that loose clip that was on there before. I just stripped the wire a bit more and sandwitched it in there for now. It was clean and no corrosion too. mine did that a lot last summer, but it has only done it once this summer. usually, after i unlock with my remote, it usually wants to click until i hit the brake to disable the lights being on from the remote (its aftermarket) and then it usually starts right up. I'm not sure why mine does it, but for now it's been reliable, so hopefully it stays that way. last summer it seemed to want to do it a lot when hot, but its been in the 80s all week and ive been driving a lot, and its been fine Yeah mine just started this past week Clip a 12 volt test lamp from the Purple starter wire to ground and see if you have stable 12 volts at the starter when you turn the key. If the bulb is dim you have problems between the purple wire and the ignition switch. On my 96 that includes the pass key relay, not sure about yours. If the bulb is bright the problem is with the starter or supplying 12 volts to the starter. Sounds like a good idea. Instead of a test volt lamp, I could just use a multimeter instead correct? So what I do is, disconnect the small purple wire and use one end on the mutli meter and the other on the bolt where the purple wire is susposed to be connected? I had the same problem with my olds not too long ago, I found out it was the bolt/screws for the battery cables for the batter, I went and bought new ones for 4 bucks, tightened them really good and worked good since. Yeah, I replaced mine last summer. They still look like new. These are the ones that connect to the side post I'm thinking of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron350 Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 Just leave the Purple wire hooked to the starter. Clip the red meter lead to the purple wire terminal. Clip the black meter lead to a good ground like the battery bolt. Another easy test is to clip a remote start button from the Purple wire at the starter to the large 12 volt lug at the starter and see if the starter works. I need to find a good remote start button lost my old one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89GP_SE Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 Yeah I really hate GM side post batteries, my olds 88, the grand prix, my truck they are horrible for making bad connections Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted June 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2007 Ok, I'll try this and take a few pics when I get back home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hell_raiser Posted June 4, 2007 Report Share Posted June 4, 2007 what is it with these starters and making that clicking sound all 3 of my cars do it cutless 3100 malibu 3100 and gp 3100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordBoy Posted June 4, 2007 Report Share Posted June 4, 2007 what is it with these starters and making that clicking sound all 3 of my cars do it cutless 3100 malibu 3100 and gp 3100 you mean cutlass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted June 4, 2007 Report Share Posted June 4, 2007 what is it with these starters and making that clicking sound all 3 of my cars do it cutless 3100 malibu 3100 and gp 3100 you mean cutlass You should talk, Mister English Teacher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordBoy Posted June 4, 2007 Report Share Posted June 4, 2007 yea i know figured id save nichole from one this time ill let him off with a warning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron350 Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 What happened to Q-Ball and the follow up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted June 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 My cars in the shop, Its been a busy week. Anyways, I took my car in cause it was hesitating on power, they said its gone and didnt do anything... im like uhhh... than they told me my clunking from the front end is from the struts and the top plate. It would cost 200 in parts and 350 in labour to fix it. So I said if im doing that, I might as well get new assemblies put in for the bigger brakes. They also told me that my boots on my steering rack are coming off. But the problem here is, I got them to put them on, (Long story) so its now getting fixed free of charge. They also have no idea what my mystery wire is from too. But they said my car is starting fine, shifting fine now too. I dont get it. But I can pick it up free of charge and bring it back whenever I want to get the breather tube fixed. But I need my car still, so I'm getting her today and checking out some assembly prices at the yards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron350 Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 Thanks man I will be looking forward to pictures of the new front-end work. Sounds like you will be starting a new thread in the Brakes and Suspension section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted June 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 Yup, soon enough. Anyways now the tranny is still shifting hard. What is going on here? I had them check it all out and they said it was fine there, but downshifting a little hard. I also noticed I need a lot more gas to get the car moving. But I just did an idle re learn and my idle rpm's dropped from ~1100 to ~550 rpm's. So could that be the reason why I need more gas? I thinks possible. But the car doesnt sound the same anymore, from the engine is like somewhat of a high wine pitch. I had to shop go over it and they couldnt find anything wrong with it. It was low on tranny fluid, but I topped it up. About 500 ml low. Anyways, I'm getting pretty peeved about it and really thinking about taking out a loan and going to an L67 mod. But just buying a house and having a mortage isnt the right time for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regal_GS_1989 Posted June 9, 2007 Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 Yup, soon enough. Anyways now the tranny is still shifting hard. What is going on here? I had them check it all out and they said it was fine there, but downshifting a little hard. I also noticed I need a lot more gas to get the car moving. But I just did an idle re learn and my idle rpm's dropped from ~1100 to ~550 rpm's. So could that be the reason why I need more gas? I thinks possible. But the car doesnt sound the same anymore, from the engine is like somewhat of a high wine pitch. I had to shop go over it and they couldnt find anything wrong with it. It was low on tranny fluid, but I topped it up. About 500 ml low. Anyways, I'm getting pretty peeved about it and really thinking about taking out a loan and going to an L67 mod. But just buying a house and having a mortage isnt the right time for me. If its shifting hard, I would check for a vacuum leak to the modulator on the transmission. Either that, or the modulator itself is bad. if you pull off the vacuum line and you see fluid come out, then the modulator is bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted June 9, 2007 Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 vac mod affects only 1 and 2 shifts. try adding a bit of extra fluid to raise the level a bit more too, since most of us think that the tranny actually needs slightly more fluid than what the stick says, but no more than 1/2 quart over the mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted June 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 Yup, soon enough. Anyways now the tranny is still shifting hard. What is going on here? I had them check it all out and they said it was fine there, but downshifting a little hard. I also noticed I need a lot more gas to get the car moving. But I just did an idle re learn and my idle rpm's dropped from ~1100 to ~550 rpm's. So could that be the reason why I need more gas? I thinks possible. But the car doesnt sound the same anymore, from the engine is like somewhat of a high wine pitch. I had to shop go over it and they couldnt find anything wrong with it. It was low on tranny fluid, but I topped it up. About 500 ml low. Anyways, I'm getting pretty peeved about it and really thinking about taking out a loan and going to an L67 mod. But just buying a house and having a mortage isnt the right time for me. If its shifting hard, I would check for a vacuum leak to the modulator on the transmission. Either that, or the modulator itself is bad. if you pull off the vacuum line and you see fluid come out, then the modulator is bad. Ok, I have no idea how to do that, but it sounds like a plan. vac mod affects only 1 and 2 shifts. try adding a bit of extra fluid to raise the level a bit more too, since most of us think that the tranny actually needs slightly more fluid than what the stick says, but no more than 1/2 quart over the mark. What about reverse? When I put it in, it kicks back hard. I have topped it up where its susposed to be and still nothing. It just pass the XXXXX | on the stick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted June 9, 2007 Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 Yup, soon enough. Anyways now the tranny is still shifting hard. What is going on here? I had them check it all out and they said it was fine there, but downshifting a little hard. I also noticed I need a lot more gas to get the car moving. But I just did an idle re learn and my idle rpm's dropped from ~1100 to ~550 rpm's. So could that be the reason why I need more gas? I thinks possible. But the car doesnt sound the same anymore, from the engine is like somewhat of a high wine pitch. I had to shop go over it and they couldnt find anything wrong with it. It was low on tranny fluid, but I topped it up. About 500 ml low. Anyways, I'm getting pretty peeved about it and really thinking about taking out a loan and going to an L67 mod. But just buying a house and having a mortage isnt the right time for me. If its shifting hard, I would check for a vacuum leak to the modulator on the transmission. Either that, or the modulator itself is bad. if you pull off the vacuum line and you see fluid come out, then the modulator is bad. Ok, I have no idea how to do that, but it sounds like a plan. vac mod affects only 1 and 2 shifts. try adding a bit of extra fluid to raise the level a bit more too, since most of us think that the tranny actually needs slightly more fluid than what the stick says, but no more than 1/2 quart over the mark. What about reverse? When I put it in, it kicks back hard. I have topped it up where its susposed to be and still nothing. It just pass the XXXXX | on the stick. My Lumina ALWAYS shifted hard into reverse..it was worse then the car was warm too (lower idle speed)...after replacing the motor mounts it wasn't soo bad, but still apparent. I never looked into it..my dad told me that's just a typical GM and it'll keep going forever the way it is haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted June 9, 2007 Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 check your motor mounts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted June 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 Doing the motor mounts I might as well do the dog bones too? Reading another site says cars have tranny mounts too... Could this just be the cause? OH and where can I get some new ones? Just stock replacements are fine. I dont want to do anything to the 3.1 I'm still saving up for the L67. I just want it back to normal operations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted June 9, 2007 Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 go out and physically check em, see if one is bad. there is a tranny mount, a hydraulic engine mount and the 2 dogbones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted June 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 I only know of the 2 dog bones, and the 2 things that connect to the chassis from the dog bones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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