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Reducing KR (Headers? FWI?)


stevegasm

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(If there's already a thread about this, don't sue me and fix the search engine :biggrin:)

 

As you may or may not know, I've decided I'm not selling the GTP pretty much because:

1) Nobody wants to buy it

2) I've put so much time and money into it, that it's pretty much at the "point of no return" as far as getting back what I paid for it, and

3) There's nothing wrong with it, except for that pesky knock.

 

This lovely Vegas summer (yeah, summer goes from May - October here) is really kicking my car's ass. I'm getting at least 2-3* of knock as soon as boost gets above 0psi, and upwards of 7-8* at WOT. I also get about ~105* F intake temps flying down the freeway, and ~130* idling. Lately I've been driving like a old person (pardon the stereotype) just for my engine's sake. I'm pretty sure this is due to the K&N intake kit I have. I'm going to invest in a better intake, and ceramic headers/PEMs.

 

So my question is, should the ZZP PEMs/Powerlog help with the KR? Or should I go with a set of real headers like Pacesetters? The reason why I'd like to go with ZZP's PEMs is because I already have a downpipe from ZZP, and I don't want to have to junk that and get a new downpipe. Also, does anyone have any good writeups on homemade FWIs? I might just break down and buy a kit like the JMB at W-BodyStore since I'm lazy, but I know pretty much any FWI will be better than the K&N I have now.

 

Just in case, here's a rundown of the major mods I have already:

 

3.4" Pulley

K&N FIPK Intake

DHP PCM

ZZP 3" Downpipe/U-bend delete/high-flow cat

 

Thanks! :mrgreen:

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you and i have very similar mods and i had a worse KR problem bad enough the car was almost undriveable.

why?

2003628923442252351_rs.jpg

 

You need Autolite 104's or other plug 2 heat ranges colder. if your plugs are stock then they prolly look close to those by now

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Ouch! I forgot to mention, I did have NGK TR6 plugs at one time, but after the engine had its little spun-bearing-ordeal, the dealer replaced it and the NGKs went with it :showoff: I just checked the plugs and they are AC Delcos, wtf? My stock plugs were even NGKs. Needless to say, I'll be replacing those. Do you recommend the 104s or should I stick to the TR6s?

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i would never put autolite plugs in my car. i would either put the NGK iridium like you had or copper AC delco ones. i actually had to run a half step HOTTER in my riviera w/ FWI, 3.4, 3" DP and full exhaust, but i actually ran R42LTS plugs when i had WAI, 3.25, dp, and exhaust...go figure :thinking:. i had the NGK TR5ix i believe. i think the 55's are stock. ive heard bad things about PEMs. i would just get headers. some people have problems with the pacesetters, but others dont. if youre afraid of the pacesetters, i would just suck it up and get SLP ones.

 

i would start with the FWI and maybe rockers before the headers, though. all you have to do to make a fwi, if youre not opposed to using exhaust pipe, is the buy 1 or 2 180* u-bends and cut them up to fit where you need it to go, then weld the pieces together. if you get 4", obv. youll need a 3.5 to 4" adapting coupler. i would def wrap the piping to keep it cool, otherwise, it will be pointless. the JMB is very nice, too, but obv it will be cheaper to make your own and it wont be much diff, except it might not be as pretty.

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maybe throw the stock pulley back on to see if that's what's causing your KR? I know all L67's are different and take differently to mods, but those mods seem minimal for dropping a pulley size.

 

 

Or, do what everybody says, plugs, t-stat, and rockers and that might also solve your problem!

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Thanks for your input guys, I did also forget to mention I installed a 180* t-stat as well. Whether or not it's still there, I'm not sure :showoff: I'll check it.

 

I might just end up throwing my stock pulley back on just for the summer or until i can afford some rockers and whatnot. But for now, I'll have to make a FWI and get some colder plugs to see if that helps any.

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i would love to know what is wrong with autolite plugs? i guess i need to spend like 3 bucks more per plug

 

between the 3.4 pulley and DHP is what causing the KR. dont remove the pulley, fix the problem and get the colder plugs. i have no problems now. for an even smaller pulley you will need to back it up with a pick from or combo of cam/rockers/headers/IC etc. any smaller pulley running stock internals will produce KR no matter what and you will fuck the motor up

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any smaller pulley running stock internals will produce KR no matter what and you will fuck the motor up

 

Not necessarily. Like I said before all motors take to mods differently, my friends 00 GTP has a PCM, Thrasher CAI, 3" DP, u-bend/res delete, and 3" exhaust with a 3.4 pulley and see's 2* KR tops at WOT. Those mods have been there for a while, he bought the car with 130k on it, and I think it's got like 142k ish on it now with no problems.

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Do I have to get in the story with my car and KR?

 

:lol:

 

 

To make it short:

 

3.2, intercooled, wizair intake, AL104s, rockers, headers, downpipe, 180tstat, all that jazz......still 4* of KR (Full list is in sig)

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between the 3 guys at my dad's shop, they have over 75 years of automotive experience, mostly with gms, and none of them ever put autolites in gms. its either acs or ngk. youre just being cheap by using autolites :razz:

 

 

I think you should sell your dhp (v. 1.5?) and get a powrtuner before you do anything else (besides a real FWI). youll be able to get rid of that kr probably with that. then, i would go to rockers. i ran a 3.25 fine on mine with stat, plugs, intake and exhaust. shane ran a 3.0 w/ the same plus dhp v.1. however, we are at higher altitude, so we are more able to get away with it. you should be fine w/ a 3.4 with those mods, but then every car is different.

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This morning I did notice right after I left for work when the IAT was about 78*F, I was getting next to 0* KR. Then I hopped on the freeway and sat in traffic for a little bit, and the IAT jumped up to 140*F, where I was seeing as much as 4* KR at only ~5psi ::) I really do think a better intake will help a lot.

 

I broke down (no pun intended) and bought some 1.9 rockers from ZZP, they should be here next week sometime. I will be doing some sort of FWI this weekend, and then install the rockers when they come, to see how much KR is eliminated after each mod. I shall consider this my little KR-eliminating project :biggrin:

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or you can tell the pcm not to pull timing when the iat's are high :mrgreen: nah, im playing, but you could :lol:

 

did you get springs and retainers with them? what ones did you get: modified or true rr's?

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I got just the modified rockers, they had better reviews than the true roller rockers, and they were much cheaper. I didn't get any springs because ZZP, and a few members here say I can just use the stock springs.

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im pretty sure some of the local people got valve float with those, but i could be wrong. i mean, its got new valve springs already (im assuming if its a reman motor), so youre probably okay.

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those intake temps are normal. i mean sitting in traffic in ur heat? stick ur head under the hood after that i bet youll think its more than that :smile: the fwi is a good idea

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im pretty sure some of the local people got valve float with those, but i could be wrong. i mean, its got new valve springs already (im assuming if its a reman motor), so youre probably okay.

Yep your wrong. :lol: No valve float shifting at 6k with stock valvetrain for me.
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those intake temps are normal. i mean sitting in traffic in ur heat? stick ur head under the hood after that i bet youll think its more than that :smile: the fwi is a good idea

 

Yeah I know they're normal for the intake I have, which is why I should've originally gotten a FWI, :lol:

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im pretty sure some of the local people got valve float with those, but i could be wrong. i mean, its got new valve springs already (im assuming if its a reman motor), so youre probably okay.

Yep your wrong. :lol: No valve float shifting at 6k with stock valvetrain for me.

im not talking about you, dan :lol: i think shane t and some others did.
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im pretty sure some of the local people got valve float with those, but i could be wrong. i mean, its got new valve springs already (im assuming if its a reman motor), so youre probably okay.

Yep your wrong. :lol: No valve float shifting at 6k with stock valvetrain for me.

im not talking about you, dan :lol: i think shane t and some others did.

Oh I guess I'm not local enough.
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im pretty sure some of the local people got valve float with those, but i could be wrong. i mean, its got new valve springs already (im assuming if its a reman motor), so youre probably okay.

Yep your wrong. :lol: No valve float shifting at 6k with stock valvetrain for me.

im not talking about you, dan :lol: i think shane t and some others did.

Oh I guess I'm not local enough.

shut up. i said "some of the local people had problems", you meeting 1 of the 2 critereon to be included in that statement. therefore, youre not included in that :lol:
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on second thought, maybe you are too far away and dont meet any of those :lol:

 

 

 

sorry for the derail, steve

 

You better be, they have PMs for a reason ya know. j/k :lol:

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