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Signal stock...


warwgn3

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Well, I think my signal stock might be on its way out. I've noticed over the last week that sometimes when I push the stock down to indicate a left signal, the stick clicks down, but the signals won't start flashing unless I wiggle the stock back and forth.

 

It works fine on the right signal, but whenever I turn left and put it on, I'm like WTF? and wiggle the thing to get it working, and it works fine when I test it, but it does it again when I really doo need it. It gets annoying.

 

I hope it's not expensive to fix, or too hard a job, because I really don't want to waste more money on car repairs. Especially so soon before taking it on a 3,900 km (2,400 mile) road trip, which is actually only 2 weeks away.

 

I might just say "fuck it", and leave it the way it is.

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Yep, the stalk's on it's way out. Just wait until it starts smoking lol. It freaked me out when it happened on my Lumina. I went with the stalk like this for a good 4 months until my dad broke down and paid to have it fixed.

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lol i just replaced mine and its not that hard to so just go to the j/y and TAKE YOUR TOOLS you'll need them

 

start by taking off the stering wheel then it should be right there its held in by i think 3 or 4 screws anyways once you get that off now comes the fun part of taking out the wires which run all the way down the collum you might have to do some ripping of other parts here?? or just unpinning fron further down the collum anyways once you get it all out its simply just reverse the process to put it back in and it should only cost ya bout $10-$15 bucks maybe less? but the haynes or chillton manuals explain this all in more detail

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Well, I think my signal stock might be on its way out. I've noticed over the last week that sometimes when I push the stock down to indicate a left signal, the stick clicks down, but the signals won't start flashing unless I wiggle the stock back and forth.

 

It works fine on the right signal, but whenever I turn left and put it on, I'm like WTF? and wiggle the thing to get it working, and it works fine when I test it, but it does it again when I really doo need it. It gets annoying.

 

I hope it's not expensive to fix, or too hard a job, because I really don't want to waste more money on car repairs. Especially so soon before taking it on a 3,900 km (2,400 mile) road trip, which is actually only 2 weeks away.

 

I might just say "fuck it", and leave it the way it is.

 

dammit all to hell, mine is doing the exact same thing and i have been dealing with it for a few months too. i guess i will have to try and find one at the JY too. does anyone know if one from another car other then a Z34 like mine will work? i have the cruise control on it too, is that going to make it more of a hassle?

good luck to you too warwgn3.

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Sometimes you can just take the signal switch apart and clean the contacts really good with alcohol, and that'll be good enough... worked for me on my old car.

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Sometimes you can just take the signal switch apart and clean the contacts really good with alcohol, and that'll be good enough... worked for me on my old car.

yes, and then lube it with dielectirc grease. works 9 out of ten times.

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It's not the actual stalk either, it's the signal SWITCH - it isn't part of the stalk at all. The stalk is screwed onto the switch with two screws IIRC.

 

If you have an aftermarkey remote start/alarm have fun replacing it if some asshole installer hacked up the wiring to the switch like what happened to mine lol..

 

I've heard you can just bend the little tabs back down against the contact in the switch - it's worth a try. ?I bought a new one from GM though because one of my tabs had broken completely off, and I figured one from the junkyard would just break after I installed it lol.

 

Good luck - it's pretty easy to change out though. Go buy a steering wheel puller though!

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When (if) I decide to tackle this problem, I want to get a replacement that has the return springs taken out, or broken, because I find that the signals de-activate too early. I'm sick of having the signal turn off at the slightest turn of the steering wheel, when I'm only halfway through my turn, or I haven't even made my turn yet, and having to re-activate the signal. I'd rather have the return not work at all, and me have to turn it off myself, than have the singals turn off too early from a working return.

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Shouldn't be too hard to make it so the signals won't deactivate by themselves.

 

IMO, there isn't any springs in the switch, it's just a part on the steering column itself that hits the switch and causes it to cancel. You can either remove that part that gets hit from the switch, or take the hitter off the column. This is all from what I remember - I could be wrong, and my terminology is obviously non-educated lol.

 

Here's some pics I just took of the switch. That white plastic piece of what gets hit, again, IIRC

Also, those 6 contacts are what is causing your problem. You can try bending them down more so they sit against the bottom contact with more force, or just replace the switch:

 

DSCN3144Small.jpg

DSCN3145Small.jpg

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When I go to AZ, I see that they have on the shelf for $30 the stick (cruise control, wiper control) brand new and has the connection wire hanging. The letters on mine are worn off, so I will replace it. Would that be a help to what you guys are troubleshooting?

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The switch at my local napa $70, time to put it in 1.5 hours, clicking the blinker on and not having to wiggle and fumble to make the blinker go=PRICELESS.

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When I go to AZ, I see that they have on the shelf for $30 the stick (cruise control, wiper control) brand new and has the connection wire hanging. The letters on mine are worn off, so I will replace it. Would that be a help to what you guys are troubleshooting?

 

No, I posted the picture of the actual switch that is causing the problem. The part you are talking about screwed into the switch on the left side where that silver nut is.

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With an airbag you just gotta pull the clockspring out from under the steering wheel also, do not allow the clockspring to move as you want it to go back in the same spot it came out

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With an airbag you just gotta pull the clockspring out from under the steering wheel also, do not allow the clockspring to move as you want it to go back in the same spot it came out

 

You also need to rent a lock ring compressor, as you'll need it to... compress the assembly to remove the lock ring.

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sorry to hijack but does the airbag make anything different with changing the switchl I gave done a million without the airbag but none with,

http://tss.likeabigdog.com

 

Spread the word to the rest of the n00bs. Actually you n00bs should be reading the FAQ section!

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