Intlcutlass Posted June 24, 2003 Report Share Posted June 24, 2003 I cant get them out. I have tried liquid wrench, heat, a 2# sledge hammer, and a 5# sledge hammer. I have looked up some of the prior posts, saw 1 guy who used a c-clamp & large socket with some sucess. Other guys, seem to have no problem with a rubber mallet, And I also DID jack up the spring, not the knuckle. I can see that is the way to go. When I did it, I left the nut on the end of the bolt, then I used a 23mm socket (just slightly larger than a 15/16) and I put some electrical tape around the nut, popped the socket on, and pounded away. Still didn't get anywhere. Anyone have any ideas. I changed the drivers side, without any serious issues. I even put on some new trailing arms, and leaf spring bushings. But the pass side is kicking my ass. I don't want to drive it for long like this cause it sounds like the strut is ready to pop through the trunk. I hate having to watch the road and dodge anything that looks like it will kill the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slade901 Posted June 24, 2003 Report Share Posted June 24, 2003 Is the bolt budging at all? I've remove a bolt two ways. One was just the bolt itself and I did not put any nut at the end and pounded it with a sledge hammer. I know there is a chance that it might hit the side and messed up the thread. The second is I put a nut which is just aligned with the tip of the bolt and hammered it away. I make sure I have a very good long swing to get enough force to push back the bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patgizz Posted June 24, 2003 Report Share Posted June 24, 2003 i had to use the 5lb sledge on mine, with no nut. ended up killing the bolt, but they are available for $~5 for nut/bolt as a "strut bolt repair kit" or something stupid like that from advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted June 24, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2003 thanks fellas, I didn't want to f-up the bolt, cause I thought they were a special order. I think I'm gunna go up to the dealership , and buy 2 of the bolts, and try pat's way. They were not budging at all though when I tryed with my sledge. Who knows though, maybe with that extra 1/4 " of swing , and my might mouse like strength, it might finially bust loose. I was just wondering if anyone else had any innovative ideas. I don't want to pay someone to bust them loose , thats for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCRagtopguy Posted June 24, 2003 Report Share Posted June 24, 2003 How about trying a little heat from a torch? Works wonders on exhaust bolts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted June 24, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2003 did that.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89Cutlass Posted June 24, 2003 Report Share Posted June 24, 2003 Hey this question is for the guy that posted the original message. I am having the same trouble with my 89 cutlass i have to avoid any bumps at all because it sounds like my struts are going to come through the trunk too. Can you give me a little explanation how to change and what parts to buy for my rear suspension ive done work before like this and am pretty skilled but im not sure really how the rear suspension works on these cars ???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted June 25, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2003 I'll tell ya, but I highly encourage you to do a search on this site for "rear struts". This is where I learned, and the people who have posted the directions here are top notch. I did one side at a time. Loosen the lugs. I jacked the car up , and supported it both from the side, and in the middle of the leaf spring, where I would describe to be "the jack pad?". Take off the tire. You shouldn't need to even open the trunk to change them. Loosen the 15/16 nuts that sit right behind the caliper. DO NOT TAKE THEM OFF YET. Loosen the 15mm bolts at the top of the well. DO NOT TAKE THEM OUT YET! Get a floor jack, and jack up the big black leaf spring as close to the knuckle as you can without actually touching the knuckle. You only need to jack it up enough so that the spring lifts out of the knuckle a bit, and make sure you put a peice of wood or rubber between the jack and the spring so that you don't damage it. Then, start pounding those bolts WITH the nuts still on. You do this to protect the threads of the bolt, and you have to pound them out because they are splined. You cannot turn them out. Once the bolt starts moving, then you can take the nuts off, as they should come out pretty easy (this is where I got hung up, the freggen bolts won't budge). Then finish removing the 15mm at the top of the well. Swap out the strut, and do the reverse process. While your in there, you may want replace the bushings that go under the leaf spring ends. They go for about $40.00, and supposedly you need a special epoxy from GM to attach them. The dealership where I got the bushings didn't have the epoxy, so I used some 2500 lb 5 min epoxy. I think it will be fine. The way I did it was just to make sure to remove the old bushings, you may have to use some pliers, or a screwdriver or whatnot, to get them out, but they need to be completely out. Then I coated the inside cup of the new bushings with the epoxy and wedged them inbetween the spring and the knuckle, then lowered the car a bit to get them to seat nice n tight. Email if you have any questions not covered, and good luck if you should decide to accept this mission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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