Tranny issue ??? Or just a misfire?? | Building her up now!

[john99gtp]

Looks like I may have to buy tranny parts sooner then I want

 

Saturday night, on the hills home, I noticed a slight hiccup while climbing some hills. I thought nothing of it.....

 

 

yesterday, on the way home, on the same hills, it started doing it again, but worse this time. It feels like its bucking, and it feels almost like a misfire, but different than one at the same time. It would downshift while it happened, then go back into OD, and it would start doing it again. By the time I got home, it started doing it in third gear too.

 

Now, on the way to work today, it was doing it on flat road, as much as it was doing it on hills I cant describe whats going on better then what I have, I will try to get a quick vid of what it is doing.

 

If you guys have any idea, let me know.

 

 

John

[Supreme Cutlass]

When was the last time your car got a full tune-up? Which car has the problem? It depends on what transmission we're dealing with, but my initial guess is an engine problem.

[john99gtp]

oh ya that would be helpful sorry

 

 

its the GTP, the plugs have less then 4000 miles on them, the wires about 30,000.

 

When I did the flexplate last month I cracked a plug, which is why the plugs are fairly new.

 

This doesnt feel like engine though, its hard to describe. It bucks like a misfire, but it doesnt feel like one or something, its confusing. sorry

[FordBoy]

hows the tranny fluid?

 

is it like a backfire?

does it do only when it down shifts or at constant speed to?

[john99gtp]

Well, I havent checked since I got home late last night and was running late for work this AM.

 

It does it just cruising. I could be going down the street and it just bucks and then sometimes it would downshift. I can feel my engine move when it happens too.

[Nick1234]

i would think internal problem if it does it just while cruising. What else would cause that. The only problems i have noticed on the later model w's is if you disconnect the battery and drive the car, the transmission can act like its slipping and you think you need a new one, and when the cat is clogged, it makes it appear as if the tranny doesn't shift and is slipping horribly as well. Doesn't seem like you are having those issues though.

 

sorry i can't help more.

[john99gtp]

Fluid looked and smelled fine.

 

 

Still did it in non-performance shift mode

 

It starts doing it the second it hits TC lockup. I drove in 2nd (30mph zone) trying to see if it would do it and it didnt. Bumped it to third, and when it locked it started doing it.

 

Torque Converter?

[DavidHowell3633]

My '94 3100 4T60-E does this at times when beginning a hill climb and vacuum increases. I suspect with the low rpms that fuel isn't being completely burned under the additional load and is causing an over rich condition and a stumble. I need to tune up the engine and maybe replace the O2 sensor. Once it down shifts (higher revs) all is fine. I've read threads that seem to indicate this is a very common thing about these cars.

[john99gtp]

This has never happened before though.

 

 

And I just saw this:

 

 

If Shudder Occurs After TCC has Applied

 

If shudder occurs after the TCC has applied, most of the time there is nothing wrong with the transmission!

 

As mentioned above, the TCC is not likely to slip after the TCC has been applied. Engine problems may go unnoticed under light throttle and load, but they become noticeable after the TCC apply when going up a hill or accelerating. This is due to the mechanical coupling between the engine and the transmission.

 

Once TCC is applied, there is no torque converter (fluid coupling) assistance. Engine or driveline vibrations could be unnoticeable before TCC engagement.

 

Inspect the following components in order to avoid misdiagnosis of TCC shudder. An inspection will also avoid the unnecessary disassembly of a transmission or the unnecessary replacement of a torque converter.

 

* Spark plugs - Inspect for cracks, high resistance or a broken insulator.

* Plug wires - Look in each end. If there is red dust (ozone) or a black substance (carbon) present, then the wires are bad. Also look for a white discoloration of the wire. This indicates arcing during hard acceleration.

* Coil - Look for a black discoloration on the bottom of the coil. This indicates arcing while the engine is misfiring.

* Fuel injector - The filter may be plugged.

* Vacuum leak - The engine will not get a correct amount of fuel. The mixture may run rich or lean depending on where the leak occurs.

* EGR valve - The valve may let in too much or too little unburnable exhaust gas and could cause the engine to run rich or lean.

* MAP/MAF sensor - Like a vacuum leak, the engine will not get the correct amount of fuel for proper engine operation.

* Carbon on the intake valves - Carbon restricts the proper flow of air/fuel mixture into the cylinders.

* Flat cam - Valves do not open enough to let the proper fuel/air mixture into the cylinders.

* Oxygen sensor - This sensor may command the engine too rich or too lean for too long.

* Fuel pressure - This may be too low.

* Engine mounts - Vibration of the mounts can be multiplied by TCC engagement.

* Axle joints - Check for vibration.

* TP Sensor - The TCC apply and release depends on the TP Sensor in many engines. If the TP Sensor is out of specification, TCC may remain applied during initial engine loading.

* Cylinder balance - Bad piston rings or poorly sealing valves can cause low power in a cylinder.

* Fuel contamination - This causes poor engine performance.

 

 

 

So thats saying it isnt the Torque Converter?

[DavidHowell3633]

I doubt it. According to this it could be a bunch of things contributing at the same time.

My engine only has 57,000 miles so I doubt it's a flat cam or mounts.

Wish we could use a diagnostic reader for our ODB 1.5!

[DOHCRagtopguy]

When you did your plugs, did you put new wires on? Sounds like a possible plug wire problem to me. If you suspect the TCC, simply unplug it. It won't hurt anything, you convertor just won't lock up.

 

When the convertor is locked up, you can feel every little vibration in the drive train and may think it's tranny related when actually it isn't.

[jamlegend]

I bet it will go away when you unplug the torque converter lockup plug. It's on the front of the tranny. It's a round plug. If the problem goes away, it's most probably your TCC solenoid.

[john99gtp]

oh well

 

 

 

 

Gears: Check (3.29s with 15/16" chain)

Input Shaft: Check

Hardened 4th Clutch shaft: Check

Sprag Kit: Check

Boost Sleeve: Check

Shift Kit: Check

 

Grant (guy who will be doing it) said he'll get the rebuild kit, sooo

 

Rebuild Kit: Check

 

 

woooo, all I need to get it started is a diff!

 

Then just need the Torque Converter for when its ready to be put back on the car.

 

Fuck yah!

[3.1LUMITIC]

My car did this same thing it came out to be a leaky Fuel Pressure Regulater pull fuel thru a vac line that came off the top of the FPR into the throttle body. you should see black smoke coming out the muffler or you could have an leaky fuel injector.

[john99gtp]

Hell ya

 

Went racing today, got 3 runs in before the converter decided it didnt want to work.

 

Was slipping like a madman, couldnt even make it home, had to stop at grandparents.

 

I guess it wasnt the engine, eh?

 

 

Never felt a slipping tranny before....

[1990lumina]

Hell ya

 

Went racing today, got 3 runs in before the converter decided it didnt want to work.

 

Was slipping like a madman, couldnt even make it home, had to stop at grandparents.

 

I guess it wasnt the engine, eh?

 

 

Never felt a slipping tranny before....

 

Neither have I, what's it like?

[john99gtp]

you hit the gas expecting to go.......except you dont go

 

 

or your cruising down the road and your rpms just start rising for no apparent reason.

[1990lumina]

you hit the gas expecting to go.......except you dont go

 

 

or your cruising down the road and your rpms just start rising for no apparent reason.

 

Damn, so like a cooked clutch on a 5spd I assume....shitty

[w-bodys_are_the_best]

I used to have the same type of buck when going up a hill in 4th with the TCC locked, and it would get real bad right before it downshifted. This was in my 94 CS 3100 4T60E, I thought it was a tranny problem. It did this for a year and a half. I ended up replacing the transmission after it dropped, it still did the bucking thing. Nobody I took it to could figure it out. It ended up shitting out on us on I-90 an the way to Ozzfest of all the times it could have. It was running on 4 cylinders turned out to be a coilpack, I replaced it and it never happaned again. The only reason I'm telling you this is because I currently have a 96 CS 3100 4T60E, and the TCC was going out since I bought it. It never bucked like your talking about. It would just shift way too early and lock up in 2nd 3rd and 4th, instead of just fourth. The only time it would do anything close to buck is if you tried to kick it down into a lower gear with the TCC engaged. The TCC quit working altogether and about 2 months ago I parked it because it did the same thing as yours. It started raising RPM's, and eventually lost forward power. I coasted off the highway to a gravel road, sat about 15 min. and it then went into gear and I babied it 20 miles back to my house. If you get your trans rebuilt and find it still bucks, it could be a coilpack, or possibly ICM.

[john99gtp]

that sounds all good and stuff, but considering the TC just shit itself, im going to point to that

 

I can drive the car for about a mile, then its just gone and i cant move. let it cool off a bit, and i can drive a little more.

 

 

before it did this 'bucking' it was constantly hunting for lock/unlock when going up hills.

[digitaloutsider]

Mine's doing the same thing. Bye bye, Mr 4T65-E. It's been a nice 217,500 miles.

[john99gtp]

Im guessing that was baby'd, lol

 

 

Only took like 55k miles to get mine to break after a semi-rebuild (thats the only reason why i think it lasted that long, cause i dont drive it nice, thats for sure)

[john99gtp]

Ok so

 

 

Tranny went into the shop, I believe its done.

 

Diagnoses was I fried my input shaft and torque converter (musta idle'd to long while staging for drag racing, which is when it officially broke).

 

Heres what I went with:

 

Gears: 3.29s with 15/16" chain

Hardened Input Shaft

Hardened 4th Clutch shaft

Sprag Kit

Boost Sleeve

Shift Kit

Rebuild Kit

Stock Diff

ATI 3250 Stall Torque Converter

 

Cant wait to get this puppy on the road. I was going to drop a cam, but I thought I didn't get the credit card in that I got approved for. Found out today I totally did, after reporting it lost Frown

 

Might be picking tranny up Friday, dont know just yet.

 

w00t

[john99gtp]

I just spent some money

 

 

Cam Install Kit

Engine:L67

Option 1:#2 w/ cam & crank bolt

Option 3:upgrade to aluminum intake gasket

 

Cradle Spacers

CompCams High Load Valvesprings 105#

S1x Cam

Timing_Chain: 3800-JPP-TCS

Viton Valve Seals

Manley Performance Valvespring Retainers

INTENSE Oil Pressure Kit

Supercharger Gasket (L67)

ATI 245mm Street/Strip Heavy Duty Torque Converters (3250)

INTENSE High Performance Polyurethane Rear-Upper (Round) Motor Mount Pair

Outer Tie Rod End

Hydraulic Transaxle Mount

INTENSE Metal Donut Gaskets for Headers, Pair

INTENSE Supercharger Coupler Change Ki

SLP 85mm High-Flow Mass-Air-Flow Sensor

Auxiliary Transmission Cooler Kit

Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushings

Injector O-Rings

 

 

Hopefully I didnt miss anything

[slick]

Well.... There is a TSB out about the 4t65e's and chugging during a light acceleration while cruising.