NVMY03GT Posted May 9, 2007 Report Posted May 9, 2007 Got a question for you mechanic folks. Car has 200,000 on it currently. From the sounds of it - it has a tune up at 130k, but I don't know what that included if it was tune up if it was just plugs and wires or what. Long story short. Right now I have a lower idle where the car is idling lower things start to shake etc. My question is would it make sense to do an engine over haul? Or what is all included in doing an overhaul etc. Or are Engine overhauls only done when the engine really blows? right now I have valve clatter bad. Who knows what could fail on a 200k mile motor. First on my list is Struts and then brakes, and then Engine work. Thoughts? Quote
digitaloutsider Posted May 9, 2007 Report Posted May 9, 2007 There's no point in totally tearing down and rebuilding an engine that isn't broken. That being said, if the last tune up the engine had was 70,000 MILES AGO, I'd definitely do a tune up on it now. Plugs, wires, top engine clean, change the transmission fluid and filter, oil and oil filter. If it still has a bad idle and valve tap, you may want to look into a rebuild, but for now, that would be a waste of time and money. My L67 is at 216,000 miles and still running strong, but it's had timely tuneups it's entire life. Your engine sounds like it's been abused. Quote
NVMY03GT Posted May 9, 2007 Author Report Posted May 9, 2007 There's no point in totally tearing down and rebuilding an engine that isn't broken. That being said, if the last tune up the engine had was 70,000 MILES AGO, I'd definitely do a tune up on it now. Plugs, wires, top engine clean, change the transmission fluid and filter, oil and oil filter. If it still has a bad idle and valve tap, you may want to look into a rebuild, but for now, that would be a waste of time and money. My L67 is at 216,000 miles and still running strong, but it's had timely tuneups it's entire life. Your engine sounds like it's been abused. I think I can do plugs and wires myself. The top engine clean I don't know anything about nor the tranny fluid. Would it be best to let a shop do it all at once? If so how much am I looking at for a repetable place to do it? Quote
Euro Posted May 9, 2007 Report Posted May 9, 2007 top end engine clean isn't hard. Just go to an auto parts store and pick up a can of Seafoam Top End cleaner. Quote
19Cutlass94 Posted May 9, 2007 Report Posted May 9, 2007 If it aint broke, dont fix it. a tune up goes a long way. Start out with that. See hwo it runs first before running any seafoam or anything through it Quote
digitaloutsider Posted May 9, 2007 Report Posted May 9, 2007 A transmission fluid and filter isn't hard either. A little messy maybe. Quote
NVMY03GT Posted May 10, 2007 Author Report Posted May 10, 2007 top end engine clean isn't hard. Just go to an auto parts store and pick up a can of Seafoam Top End cleaner. Im guessing you need to take the Valve cover off to do this or not? The Plugs and wires may do it, but I doubt its going to help with my valve clatter - And God Knows when the hell the timing belt was replaced :sigh: Right now my low idle is the problem - my mirrors act like they are going to fall off the car Quote
Euro Posted May 10, 2007 Report Posted May 10, 2007 top end engine clean isn't hard. Just go to an auto parts store and pick up a can of Seafoam Top End cleaner. Im guessing you need to take the Valve cover off to do this or not? The Plugs and wires may do it, but I doubt its going to help with my valve clatter - And God Knows when the hell the timing belt was replaced :sigh: Right now my low idle is the problem - my mirrors act like they are going to fall off the car honestly I've never used Seafoam so I'm not sure. I've heard it's kinda easy. What car do you have btw? Quote
NVMY03GT Posted May 10, 2007 Author Report Posted May 10, 2007 top end engine clean isn't hard. Just go to an auto parts store and pick up a can of Seafoam Top End cleaner. Im guessing you need to take the Valve cover off to do this or not? The Plugs and wires may do it, but I doubt its going to help with my valve clatter - And God Knows when the hell the timing belt was replaced :sigh: Right now my low idle is the problem - my mirrors act like they are going to fall off the car honestly I've never used Seafoam so I'm not sure. I've heard it's kinda easy. What car do you have btw? Sorry 1995 GP SE Quote
MonteCarloChick Posted May 10, 2007 Report Posted May 10, 2007 You can put it through the brake booster hose or directly in the crankcase through the PCV hole. It couldn't get any easier, and the direction are on the can. Quote
NVMY03GT Posted May 10, 2007 Author Report Posted May 10, 2007 You can put it through the brake booster hose or directly in the crankcase through the PCV hole. It couldn't get any easier, and the direction are on the can. I like it already!!! Is this via Arasol can or is it like a fluid? Quote
rockfangd Posted May 10, 2007 Report Posted May 10, 2007 seafoam is the best stuff i have ever used and it benefits greatly. I will stand by that. Its funny because the neighbors think your car is on fire though lol. Quote
Crazy K Posted May 10, 2007 Report Posted May 10, 2007 3100? pour some in the case run it for a bit... take a narrow nose funnel and stick it in the brake booster hose, and poor some in. should produce smoke but work great. run the enigne for a bit so that the smoke from the topend engine cleaner had stopped being produced, then shut it off and change the oil. THEN once the engine has COOLED off, change the plugs and wires. also replace the fuel filter, air filter, check pcv. remove the IAC valve and carb cleaner it's port, also pop the egr off and clean out it's port if necessary. DO NOT rebuild unless your problems become serious. a little valve clatter doesn't mean a rebuild is needed. maybe just do your oil changes more frequently, or up your oil wieght. with 200k miles I'd run 10w 40 in the summer, and I hope you are using a good quality oil with reasonable service intervals. as for timing chain... it is usually a lifetime lasting part. Quote
kuwaitliberation Posted May 10, 2007 Report Posted May 10, 2007 I actually use a synthetic, but not a national brand. I get the SupraTech at Wal-Mart. It is $14 for 5 qt bottle. I have used it on my pickup for over 50,000 miles and that thing runs better now than when my dad first bought it (he did buy it new). Plus, you can go 6,000 miles between oil changes. I also get the SupraTech oil filter. It works better than the low-end fram and you change it out in 6,000 miles, so who cares? I talked to several mechanics that I know and trust before going with this, so it's not like I did this on a whim. Every time I drain the oil, it is the same consistincy as when I put it in, only black in color. Plus, it is a full synthetic, so if you actually run your engine out of oil, it will still be safe for around 1,000 miles. I had a friend with a mini-van who brought it to me complaining that it was getting hotter than normal. I pulled the dipstick and it came out clean. I drained the oil and it drained about a pint. Not good at all, but it was full synthetic. She actually had a busted oil pan seal, so I had to replace that. I could tell that the engine had been dry for a little while, but it still ran fine after I replaced the seal and filled it with the walmart oil. Didn't have the valve chatter, either. This is just my opinion and expierience. Please take it as you can and if you do have questions, ask a mechanic that you do trust. I am not a mechanic, I only play one on TV. Quote
kuwaitliberation Posted May 10, 2007 Report Posted May 10, 2007 as for timing chain... it is usually a lifetime lasting part. This is one I will disagree with you on. It is still a metal chain against a metal gear set. It will wear out and eventually break no matter what. I have seen it happen and, in fact, had to change the chain on my Olds 98 with the 3800. Luckily, I had heard it long before it went, but it still had a half-broken link. As far as changing it. Probably cost at least $400 at a cheap mechanic. The labor for you would be a long time. It took me an entire weekend. Not that I couldn't do it fast, but the front of the engine has about 1/2 inch clearance from the tire well. It's really hard to get at and you have to be a contortionist or have an engine hoist handy. Quote
Andrew Posted May 10, 2007 Report Posted May 10, 2007 I with Crazy Ken on all counts. Do this stuff yourself or find a friend to help you. Quote
NVMY03GT Posted May 10, 2007 Author Report Posted May 10, 2007 I actually use a synthetic, but not a national brand. I get the SupraTech at Wal-Mart. It is $14 for 5 qt bottle. I have used it on my pickup for over 50,000 miles and that thing runs better now than when my dad first bought it (he did buy it new). Plus, you can go 6,000 miles between oil changes. I also get the SupraTech oil filter. It works better than the low-end fram and you change it out in 6,000 miles, so who cares? I talked to several mechanics that I know and trust before going with this, so it's not like I did this on a whim. Every time I drain the oil, it is the same consistincy as when I put it in, only black in color. Plus, it is a full synthetic, so if you actually run your engine out of oil, it will still be safe for around 1,000 miles. I had a friend with a mini-van who brought it to me complaining that it was getting hotter than normal. I pulled the dipstick and it came out clean. I drained the oil and it drained about a pint. Not good at all, but it was full synthetic. She actually had a busted oil pan seal, so I had to replace that. I could tell that the engine had been dry for a little while, but it still ran fine after I replaced the seal and filled it with the walmart oil. Didn't have the valve chatter, either. This is just my opinion and expierience. Please take it as you can and if you do have questions, ask a mechanic that you do trust. I am not a mechanic, I only play one on TV. Problem with Synthetic though is you can't really change over on the fly. YOu kind of have to raise a car on synthetic. Its not really something you want to do at 200k. I agree its probably better to run but I would be hesistant to flip at this age Quote
Crazy K Posted May 10, 2007 Report Posted May 10, 2007 synthetic would be good... I changed a 3.1 to synthetic at 180,000 miles. supertech synthetic would be good, it is what I use. preferably if it had WPP on the bottom of the bottle, as that is made by Warren Petroleum Products, and is supposed to be top notch in quality. WHAT DO YOU OIL DO YOU USE? MILEAGE BETWEEN CHANGE INTERVALS? Quote
NVMY03GT Posted May 10, 2007 Author Report Posted May 10, 2007 synthetic would be good... I changed a 3.1 to synthetic at 180,000 miles. supertech synthetic would be good, it is what I use. preferably if it had WPP on the bottom of the bottle, as that is made by Warren Petroleum Products, and is supposed to be top notch in quality. WHAT DO YOU OIL DO YOU USE? MILEAGE BETWEEN CHANGE INTERVALS? Sorry forgot to answer the bottom one I think right now Valvoline (Maxlife) is in there now. I let Midas do it because thats where its been religiously thus far. 3,000 on the oil changes. It could probably go further as most of my driving is highway but I still would rather stick to 3k. Im not sure on the weight of the oil to be honest. I didn't look the last time they did it. Quote
Euro Posted May 10, 2007 Report Posted May 10, 2007 as for timing chain... it is usually a lifetime lasting part usually lol......You shouldn't have to worry about this. Quote
NVMY03GT Posted May 10, 2007 Author Report Posted May 10, 2007 as for timing chain... it is usually a lifetime lasting part usually lol......You shouldn't have to worry about this. Unless you run low on oil I presume in which cases it causes slack. Although I thought even chains had a time expectancy? Quote
Andrew Posted May 10, 2007 Report Posted May 10, 2007 Although I thought even chains had a time expectancy? yes, they do. but generally it is beyond the life expectency of the car. Quote
Euro Posted May 10, 2007 Report Posted May 10, 2007 Although I thought even chains had a time expectancy? yes, they do. but generally it is beyond the life expectency of the car. Yeah, I've only heard of 3 3.1 cars blowing their timing chain. My buddy's was one of them lol Quote
NVMY03GT Posted May 10, 2007 Author Report Posted May 10, 2007 Although I thought even chains had a time expectancy? yes, they do. but generally it is beyond the life expectency of the car. Yeah, I've only heard of 3 3.1 cars blowing their timing chain. My buddy's was one of them lol Neglect or abuse? Quote
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