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What keeps the door proped open


NVMY03GT

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My Drivers door when I open it all the way it comes right back at me. I imagine this is just a hinge but what needs replaced? When these doors come back to hit you OMG it hurts like hell!!!!

 

1995 Grand Prix.

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it is an easy fix. There is a pivot arm that mounts to the body with 1 bolt and to the door with 2 bolts. It prolly broke. To fix the prob just take off the bolt from the body, then pull the gromet off of the door and then you can access the 2 10 mm bolts on the door. The downside is that the part has to be removed from the inside of the door by removing the door panel :mrgreen:

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normally one of the rollers breaks or the arm snaps. usually when the door is opened past its lmit too many times. I changed the one in my car from a good one from a j/y and it is good as new. 30 mins tops

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it is an easy fix. There is a pivot arm that mounts to the body with 1 bolt and to the door with 2 bolts. It prolly broke. To fix the prob just take off the bolt from the body, then pull the gromet off of the door and then you can access the 2 10 mm bolts on the door. The downside is that the part has to be removed from the inside of the door by removing the door panel :mrgreen:

 

Taking off that door panel is a bitch :(So that whole assembly needs to be replaced?? :(

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normally one of the rollers breaks or the arm snaps. usually when the door is opened past its lmit too many times. I changed the one in my car from a good one from a j/y and it is good as new. 30 mins tops

 

Can this be done without going through door panels?

 

Previous cars door panels have been a NIGHTMARE!!!

 

 

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The door panels aren't that bad.. Remove the phillips screws and whatever big bolt might hold it on (it's been a LONG time since I've done first-gen doors), and get a trim removal tool. I can have the Regal's panels off in 3 minutes.

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When you do get the new parts put in, remember to put a little grease/WD40 in their before you button it up. That will allow the new parts to break in the easy way

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http://www.carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalPontiacGrandPrixFSpk.htm

 

The same applies for the coupe. The you'll need a T-15 torx head to remove the window switch panel, and T-30 for the two main bolts under the arm rest and inside the cavity for the switch panel.

 

It becomes a piece of cake after you do it once.

. x2 the job is pretty easy. Just dont forget to take off the mirror cable if you dont have power mirrors. Trust me it is not bad. I recently did one in about 20 mins
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Crap. I've only had this car a month and I've already taken off (and put back on) both door panels, the panels inside the rear seating, the rear seats, the drivers seat, the entire dash, some of the carpeting, center arm rest. I guess that's it. I'll be fixing the pass-side rear seatbelt this weekend. (reminds me, I need to post up in audio...)

 

Easy job to do. Just make sure you do what that GM Joseph said with the grease. Actually, I was thinkin graphite?

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Crap. I've only had this car a month and I've already taken off (and put back on) both door panels, the panels inside the rear seating, the rear seats, the drivers seat, the entire dash, some of the carpeting, center arm rest. I guess that's it. I'll be fixing the pass-side rear seatbelt this weekend. (reminds me, I need to post up in audio...)

 

Easy job to do. Just make sure you do what that GM Joseph said with the grease. Actually, I was thinkin graphite?

 

I've heard that graphite will also work in this situation as well. Although, I've never tried it, so I don't know how long it holds up.

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i can remove my door panel in less then 2 mins now

I'm pretty much in the same boat. I'm probably gong to do it again pretty soon to hood the speakers back up in my door and to replace all the plastic clips in it.

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When I replaced the "closer" on my old 95 GP, I found one out of an 88-91 era GP. The earlier "closer" consisted of a rod running through a square bushing, unlike the 95's that had the clunky wheel/pivot assembly that was 10X more complicated...

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GM calls it a "check link" and they're $15 new. I wouldn't bother pulling a junkyard one. Too much trouble.

Plus, they changed the design at one point. The newer design will hold the door open even parked on a hill. The newer design just has one vertical roller and a toothed looking bar. The old design had two horizontal rollers and bumps on the bar.

 

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GM calls it a "check link" and they're $15 new. I wouldn't bother pulling a junkyard one. Too much trouble.

Plus, they changed the design at one point. The newer design will hold the door open even parked on a hill. The newer design just has one vertical roller and a toothed looking bar. The old design had two horizontal rollers and bumps on the bar.

 

 

thats not bad at all sounds like a lot of labor to put in with the door panel and stuff but.. $15 is $15 right?

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I have the following part number in my parts catalog for this part: 10204701

 

I'm not sure if that's the new style Shawn mentioned or not though. I need to pick up one of these myself for the driver's door on my '93. A quarter million miles + a lot of door opening will wear them out. :burnout:

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I have the following part number in my parts catalog for this part: 10204701

 

I'm not sure if that's the new style Shawn mentioned or not though. I need to pick up one of these myself for the driver's door on my '93. A quarter million miles + a lot of door opening will wear them out. :burnout:

 

Agreed Speaking of which your car is like identical to mine. How many miles are on her?

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