Robby1870 Posted June 19, 2003 Report Share Posted June 19, 2003 Okay. The coolant sensor on the top of the back head, the one with one green wire running from it, does it only control the hot coolant light in the dash panel?? Then that means the other one, on the lower intake would control the fans and the temp guage. Is that correct?? I have a small problem. Like my temp gauge moves WAY too slow. So, I decided to let it run in idle, until it heated up. Well, the fans never came on, and when the temp gauge said 220*, the coolant light came on. (Which it shouldnt do til the temp is like 240* or something. Im thinking the sensor on my lower intake is shot, is that what it sounds like to you guys?? Robby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slade901 Posted June 19, 2003 Report Share Posted June 19, 2003 Does your fan even turn ON if directly connected to the battery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimp19 Posted June 19, 2003 Report Share Posted June 19, 2003 Okay. The coolant sensor on the top of the back head, the one with one green wire running from it, does it only control the hot coolant light in the dash panel?? Then that means the other one, on the lower intake would control the fans and the temp guage. Is that correct?? I have a small problem. Like my temp gauge moves WAY too slow. So, I decided to let it run in idle, until it heated up. Well, the fans never came on, and when the temp gauge said 220*, the coolant light came on. (Which it shouldnt do til the temp is like 240* or something. Im thinking the sensor on my lower intake is shot, is that what it sounds like to you guys?? Robby The sensor on the rear head controls the temp GAUGE or LIGHT, the sensor by the the the throttle body controls the fan, and there is one on the radiator that conrols the "low coolant light". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted June 19, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2003 Well, guys, heres what me and dad have come up with. We think it is comination of the T-stat sticking at the open position and at closed position, wherever it decides to, cuz the car ran fine on Monday, no problems, and the sensor on the lower manifold crapping out. Also, I might add that when the this problem is evident, the car seems to idle at like 875rpms, warm in park. Thats what the tach shows. Which, is wrong, it should idle around 700-725, warm, in park. AND, when this occurs, when I press the window buttons ( I press both fronts at the same time), the tach goes UP about 25-30rpms, but the motor will NOT actually gain rpms, just the gauge shows it. That is counterintutive. Before, the tach would go DOWN 25-30rpms, cuz there would be a load on the battery. I think I have a short or something somewhere. Tomorrow, Im going to change the T-stat and the sensor on the lower manifold, and see what happens Robby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted June 19, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2003 Problem solved, bad T-stat. Now, another problem decided to come up. I think the starter solenoid has crapped out. I turn the key, and I hear a deep groan from the starter once or twice. Then I try starting it again, and all I here is clicking. The battery, after it sitting and me trying to start it 3 or 4 times, still read 11.75-12.00 volts with the motor off. So, I guess Im going to replace the solenoid and maybe starter tomorrow. Damn car, if it aint one thing its another Robby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RedCutlassSL Posted June 19, 2003 Report Share Posted June 19, 2003 I know the feeling, damn bushings and mysterious squeak from drivers side front tire... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPSMonteZ34 Posted June 21, 2003 Report Share Posted June 21, 2003 Reminds me of what happened briefly while driving my recent long trip. The low coolant light came on while I was working the twisties. It was puzzling because I checked everything before I left, and two hours into my trip, the light comes on, but the coolant was bubbling full while the car ran when I pulled over and checked the bottle. In that time of checking, the light went off and never came on again. *shrug* maybe the low coolant sensor is crapping out? Just for a 'heads-up' on your start problem, hopefully it's the first thing you suspect, because after experiencing the same electrical gremlin you have, with hours of time testing, tracking, dis/re-assembling wires, and replacing a good starter, it ended up being buildup between the electrical contact plates that supply power to the fuses next to the auxilliary battery post. 50 cents worth of sandpaper fixed the stupid problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted June 21, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2003 yeah, I found the problem. Bad power wire connection at alternator. I had forgotten to tighten it all the way down when I put it back together. I just charged the battery all night, then it started up fine, and no problems so far. Im very glad it wasnt the starter. Robby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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