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Cutlass side marker and rear tail light - How do you black em out ?


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Posted

you'll still most likely (or at least if you want it to look really good) have to sand them, clearing is a must or theyll fade after a while. niteshades is a safer way to go, but IMO the final product isnt much different if you use the krylon, just depends on how good you are and how much time you want to spend i guess.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So went to walmart, thought I had black paint from Krylon already, but the can on looked dark blue.

Called them up and they do not make Crystal Color in black.

 

So now....nightshades it is...any application tips ?

 

Cheers

 

Posted

its technically gray. lemme go check

 

 

edit: Ok, its labeled "Slate Black" on the sticker by the upc, but the cap does look like a dark blue

Posted

I didn't clear coat my VHT Nightshades on my side markers and they look awesome. Keep them waxed and your good.

I put clear on my tails and side markers and even waxed them religiously and after 3 years, they faded.

 

And I bought that Krylon stuff and it came out grey, so now it's sitting in the garage.

Posted

thanks for that Matt,...now back to walmart I go.....;-)....if I ever get this done.....I will be happy..

 

Chick - thanks for the tip, I was thinking of doing clear on them anyway...with any paint I put on .

Posted

i did lots of clear, but i need to redo the one, because i sanded a little too much. my krylon ones came out grey too, but only with minimal coats. it looked better after more. I bought some niteshades though for my tails, so I can compare when i get those done.

 

moral of the story: no matter what route you take, it's probably a good idea to put at least 2 or 3 coats of clear on

Posted

Matt,

 

Seeing as you already have done Krylon and now have nightshades, how about you post some pics when you are done with a stare and compare. This way we can all get an idea how the products differ ?

 

If you are willing to do this...then I will wait to see your results.

 

Thx

Posted

As far as wetsanding goes, there is a really good way to do it if you want it "perfect" by using rubbing compound. It works very similar to 3200 grit sandpaper except I think it is easier because you use your fingers and they will curve to the lights much better. I also like to use 3M Rubbing Compound, Fine Cut (http://www.autogeek.net/3mperllrubco.html). I always have a bottle around because it removes those tiny scratches you get around the door handles and locks.

 

The polishing process is simple enough: get a cotton cloth (old t-shirt work fine), preferably white (this will help you see how much paint you removing), several q-tips, and a polishing cloth (same t-shirt). Wrap the cloth over your index finger and dip it into polish. Then start rubbing the surface with circular motion. Try not to rub over fine details and raised edges. Polish works just like fine sandpaper, only in a liquid state. It removes paint and by doing this smoothes the surface, and if you rub over raised edges, it will remove paint just like sandpaper does. When polishing the paint, rub it till all polish is absorbed by the cloth, and then take another (clean) cloth and rub over the polished area to remove remaining polish. You will immediately see if you need to polish this area some more, or if its already polished enough. Use q-tips dipped in polish to polish hard to reach areas, like if there are any raised areas that will look bad if you don't polish it a little. Work slowly, and check your work often. Repeat the process if needed.

 

The reason the wax will fade the niteshades when being used is because it is also a rubbing compound, only even finer grade. It pulls off paint as well and over time, it will fade the paint.

 

Now, remember, this is just one man's way of doing something. There are hundreds of ways to do this.

 

One thing I forgot and I am editing to add. TAKE THEM OFF YOUR CAR BEFORE YOU START. You don't want to do this whole process to your paint also. That wasn't just for you, but for anyone considering doing this. :biggrin:

Posted

well, I'll post some comparison pics, but I don't know how soon it will be though. I want to find another set of side markers and redo them with the krylon, but I havent looked recently. I do, however, need to take my third brake light and rear markers and sand them and probably clear and polish them, as i dont think I ever did cuz i was in a hurry

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Well I bought Krylon , did the front side markers and the high mount stop. I could not get the lower rear side markers off....any ideas ?

 

Krylon comes out good, just have to make sure you shake the can for about 5 mins before you spray... did a few coats of clear ontop and its all good...

 

gonna do the rear brake lights when I get back from work.....

Posted

yeah, i noticed that the niteshades just comes out finer, but otherweise pretty much the same. I did niteshades on the tails and once i clean them up I'll do a better comparison.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Matt,

 

Since the last post, I have noticed that that side markers that I did have faded a lot.

 

Did yours fade any ? They were nice and dark when I did them, now with the sun hitting them, they have become more translucent.

 

Any ideas on what I did wrong ? dont say I should have used nightshades...lol

 

thanks,

Posted

how many coats did you use, and how much clear? and how much did you sand/polish?

Posted

Any ideas on what I did wrong ? dont say I should have used nightshades...lol

 

 

that probably is your problem....my tails were tinted for 2.5yrs and counting when I sold it and they didn't fade one bit

Posted

Matt,

 

I did about 4 coats, sanding every 2. Did 2 coats of clear.

Where is the cheapest place on the web to get niteshades ?

Posted

i got mine on ebay for like 12$ shipped. although im pleased with the krylon on the smaller pieces, for the corners and tails its probably better to use niteshades

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