Panopticon Posted June 17, 2003 Report Share Posted June 17, 2003 Hmm ok. It seems like I'll be sticking with my w-body for a while. And being so I want to customize it. Right now all i have is upgraded sound system. New all season tires. Replaced rear shocks with new OEM spec ones.(Fe1 for me ) and the next step is upgraded brakes(DAMN PMIII CAN EAT MY ASS) and new front struts.(again OEM spec Fe1) Ok so over the long term (3-5 years) I've been contemplating my options. My L27 is a strong running motor. But alas, can't find a lot of aftermarket support. My ultimate goal is to reach 250-300hp N/A. The means however is beyond me at this stage. Can anyone reccomend websites, manufacturs, custom how-to's to aid me in improving the HP and TQ numbers on my 3.8L series I? -Thanks for the idea's/advice p.s. The Intake and exauhst is a given (aside from headers.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantomFE3 Posted June 17, 2003 Report Share Posted June 17, 2003 underdrive pulleys? cam? bigger valves? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted June 17, 2003 Report Share Posted June 17, 2003 I dont think 250-300 N/A HP is going to be easily attainable. Do you know if its hard to convert your n/a 3.8 to the S/C Gen I 3.8? I know you dont want forced induction, but, I think thats the only way you'll ever see the HP you want Robby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panopticon Posted June 17, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2003 hmm ok. from what i read the s/c series I is reinforced just liek the L67 over the L36. It would be easier to get a S/C series I rather than upgrading the N/A. The 250 was just a ncie round number. What kind of HP/TQ would you esitmate i can obtain from a N/A L27? My big problem is that i've had more experience with SOHC and DOHC engines rather than pushrod. Its a slightly new ballgame and i don't want to F anything up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted June 17, 2003 Report Share Posted June 17, 2003 I would say the most n/a power you could see from it would be anywhere from 200-225. Torque, you could probably get over 250 ft-lbs. Well, most of my experience is pushrod motors. They arent that hard to work on, I think their pretty easy. As long as you read your directions on any performance stuff you buy, you should be alright. Port/polish the heads and intakes, cam (if one is made, cuz I dont think one is). Heres a question, are the valve trains on the Gen I 3.8 and Gen II 3.8 the same?? The reason I ask is there is a shit ton of stuff for the series two, i.e. 1.9:1 rockers, cam, all sorts of stuff Robby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantomFE3 Posted June 17, 2003 Report Share Posted June 17, 2003 i have seen some website that has a cam for the series 1 engine, i cant remember where though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted June 17, 2003 Report Share Posted June 17, 2003 probably a good bit of the aftermarket parts for a L36 would work on your engine, although don't hold me to my word. I suggest befriending the ever-growing crowd of ClubGP and see if anyone happens to have more info on the interchangability of parts and whatnot. I say 250hp at the crank is pretty feasible/reasonable to shoot for considering you're starting in the neighborhood of ~160hp stock. If/when you find out about the interchangiblity of parts, let me/us know as I know quite a few people w/ that motor looking for a little more power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panopticon Posted June 17, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2003 ~160hp stock. . i think the numbers are more around 170/220 ...i think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90TGP Posted June 17, 2003 Report Share Posted June 17, 2003 I'd first swap motors out to a 3100 or 3400. Then I'd goto http://www.jbodyperformance.com [These guys specialize in the 2.8/3.1/3100/3400 series motors.] and talk to them about your goals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panopticon Posted June 17, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2003 hmm nawww.. i wouldn't want to swap for a less powerfull engine. even if it does have more aftermarket support. :-P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panopticon Posted June 17, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2003 ohya does anyone have some exploded drawings of the 3.8L? hell any pushrod engine would do, IM just trying to get an idea in my head of exactly what is going on. -Paul <--The pushrod newb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted June 17, 2003 Report Share Posted June 17, 2003 ~160hp stock. . i think the numbers are more around 170/220 ...i think 170 hp @ 4800rpms and 225 lbs/ft torque @3200rpms according to the w-body motors page Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted June 17, 2003 Report Share Posted June 17, 2003 ohya does anyone have some exploded drawings of the 3.8L? hell any pushrod engine would do, IM just trying to get an idea in my head of exactly what is going on. -Paul <--The pushrod newb I can give you a quick explination if you want They are singe cam, and the cam is in b/n the two heads at the bottom of them. One cam lobe pushes up on one lifter. There is a pushrod b/n the lifter and one end of the rocker arm. So, the lifter makes the pushrod go up which makes one end of the rocker arm go up. The rocker arm is on a rocker stud which is stable. The stud is in the middle of the rocker, so when one end of the rocker is up, the other is down. So, the rod makes one end of the rocker go up, the other end then goes down. The other end sits on the valve, which is surrounded by the spring. So, that end of the rocker pushes the valve down, which opens it. That is basically what happens. These motors are two-valve per cylinder. Hope some of that helps Robby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panopticon Posted June 17, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2003 sweet. thats all i needed. hmm....Just guessing here but would the reason Pushrod engines aren't high reving be because the valves get lagged? ie) to much moving mass, the return spring can get it back fast enough, plus some mechanical engery loss etc..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted June 17, 2003 Report Share Posted June 17, 2003 yeah, its the fact that the distance from the cam to the valves is usually 8-12 inches. On a SOHC or DOHC, the cam is right there over the valves. Yes, you are correct, the energy has to travel farther. Robby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panopticon Posted June 17, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2003 awsome. Im not a retard afterall Now im kinda contemplating costs for an L36 car or possibly an L67 or L36 swap. There is just so much more aftermarket support for it! Another duh type question. when people say "i got such and such ratio rocker arms" i know they mean the ratio of arm length to pivot but what how does changing the ratio affect the valve train? is it the same effect as regrinding the cam? are these cams significantly different from a OHC? -Thx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panopticon Posted June 17, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2003 heh heh nevermind. I found a sweet animation http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft2.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted June 17, 2003 Report Share Posted June 17, 2003 yeah, going to higer ratio rockers is like a having a taller lift on a cam. The higher ratio makes the valves go down a little more, letting in more mixture. The BASIC cam desing is fairly similar since they do the same thing, just at different places along the valve train. With higher ratio rockers, you have to be careful of coil-bind. Thats where the springs around the valve, are COMPLETELY compressed. the turns in the springs touch when its compressed Robby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91GranSport Posted June 18, 2003 Report Share Posted June 18, 2003 FE1? You could've used FE3 shocks on your FE1 if I'm not mistaken. I know the feeling of the FE1 all too well, I had an '89 Regal Limited coupe with the FE1. Trust me, GranSport suspension is the best and Dynaride sucks ass. You have the same engine as me, 3800 TPI. I highly doubt you'll get up to 250HP or more with that engine. Here are some suggestions but it will take money. - Check out Domestic Performance's website for the following: Ported upper and lower intake manifolds and exhaust manifolds. - Port/polish/deburr cylinder heads. - Extrude Hone exhaust manifolds. - Custom cat-back exhaust. - Custom camshaft, roller rockers. Hmm ok. It seems like I'll be sticking with my w-body for a while. And being so I want to customize it. Right now all i have is upgraded sound system. New all season tires. Replaced rear shocks with new OEM spec ones.(Fe1 for me ) and the next step is upgraded brakes(DAMN PMIII CAN EAT MY ASS) and new front struts.(again OEM spec Fe1) Ok so over the long term (3-5 years) I've been contemplating my options. My L27 is a strong running motor. But alas, can't find a lot of aftermarket support. My ultimate goal is to reach 250-300hp N/A. The means however is beyond me at this stage. Can anyone reccomend websites, manufacturs, custom how-to's to aid me in improving the HP and TQ numbers on my 3.8L series I? -Thanks for the idea's/advice p.s. The Intake and exauhst is a given (aside from headers.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.