BXX Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 No problem!!! (now buy my front coilovers :lol: since im such good helper:lol:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twenty Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 I want to, I really do! Just give me a second (Or more...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTP091 Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 Looks like a good set of parts. I'll call Bob in here so he can confirm. Looks like you can get the springs cheaper on summitracing though, for $40 instead of $60. And yeah, KYB GR2's will be absolutely necessary. I came across a few sources of information saying that the summit springs aren't very good compared to the hyperco. The summit I took to believe is cheaper chinese stuff. and the hypercos are built for racecar performance spec (stock cars and sprint cars). I'm not saying this is true just what I read. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTP091 Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 PM replied. I believe my price is way way way more than fair. Aside from mounts, the exact parts that are needed are this!!! -Strut housings, modified. Easy enough to do. -2 Coilover Sleeves - A1-12457-TK - $36.80/pair -2 Coilover Adj Nuts - A1-12460 - $25.74/pair -2 ES Spring Isolators - 9.6103r - $17.99/pair -2 10" 2.5" ID Coil Springs - HAL-10-xxx (spring rate) - $79.90 to $99.90 -1 Thrust Bearing Kit - HAL-7888-109 - $25.95 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Total $190.38 to $210.38 Best of all!!! You can buy one part at a time instead of dropping that cash at once! Great for people who dont make alot like me:thumbsup: I don't think the sleeves you listed on here have a large enough diameter to fit over the strut assembly body. you might want to double check that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 I listed the correct ones. Ive installed those sleeves on 3 cars so far no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 If you take the sleeves to a machine shop they can be bored out, I did mine myself Crappy Cell phone pics I'm not particularly fond of that rear upper mount idea, it works, but I would be concerned about putting all that load on the mount that way. Now that being said no one seems to have had an issue with it, providing your rear mounts are in good shape, I guess you would be safe. The Held rear mount allows the spring to be mounted higher too, dunno if there is any real advantage to that or not. The only thing I would change about that mount is the part that the spring seats around, I would taper the end so that if the spring comes unloaded, it will re-seat properly. I never had a problem with it unless I had the car jacked up, then I would have to go around and make sure the springs were seating correctly. Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 The sleeves from A1Racing DO NOT need machined out. The Afco ones do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venom Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 Seems only like 4 of us on the forum give a damn about being able to take a corner faster than a fricken school bus!!! (Me, Andrie, You, Adam) So because Im not going with spherical rod ends and bars means I dont care about handing? lol. Im still doing a front end setup and might be down for some control arms ad those mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 FWIW A-1 is selling the Hypercoil springs right now, buy 3 get one free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 Bob, those HAL springs and thrust bearings you have listed, where can those be found? they aren't coming up on the A-1 site, am I wrong to assume they are from A-1? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mra32 Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 HAL-7888-109 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 LoL that was odd, I've never seen that before, but thanks! Gonna have to try and get those here, every time I order from Summit I get raped with boarder fees Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTP091 Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 I listed the correct ones. Ive installed those sleeves on 3 cars so far no problems. Do you sand or machine the inside or the strut body itself?? I used an outside caliper to measure the strut body and only the 2.170 look like they fit. It would be nice if these fit though; they are a bit longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 If you take the sleeves to a machine shop they can be bored out, I did mine myselfCrappy Cell phone pics I'm not particularly fond of that rear upper mount idea, it works, but I would be concerned about putting all that load on the mount that way. Now that being said no one seems to have had an issue with it, providing your rear mounts are in good shape, I guess you would be safe. The Held rear mount allows the spring to be mounted higher too, dunno if there is any real advantage to that or not. The only thing I would change about that mount is the part that the spring seats around, I would taper the end so that if the spring comes unloaded, it will re-seat properly. I never had a problem with it unless I had the car jacked up, then I would have to go around and make sure the springs were seating correctly. Jamie Regarding the mount height, there is definitely enough travel back there. At the ride height I'm sitting at, I can hit a speed bump at 50mph and not bottom out. The front is a different story. So because Im not going with spherical rod ends and bars means I dont care about handing? lol. Im still doing a front end setup and might be down for some control arms ad those mounts. Anyone who sits inside my engine bay gets sick. Its proven. Look at Bob for example? He's nuts about 3800's! I'd only expect you to get nuts too in one way or another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 So if we made a mount like that to fit in the front, would that be sufficient? I know you have to allow for that thrust bearing in there somewhere. But a poly/delrin/rubber bushing on the top of the strut rod should be fine, correct? If such a mount would suffice for the front, I can get the bolt pattern figured out over the weekend, and i could have a quote on getting plates laser cut by Wed. I'm going to say $10 each for plate, $15 for the pieces of pipe, $20 for PC, I might be able to swing a full set of 4 mounts (minus bushings and thrust bearing), front and rear, for $250 Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mra32 Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 The only thing I would change about that mount is the part that the spring seats around, I would taper the end so that if the spring comes unloaded, it will re-seat properly. I never had a problem with it unless I had the car jacked up, then I would have to go around and make sure the springs were seating correctly. LOL i just aim for the hole in my driveway to get the one that comes out seated again. Sounds horrible, but its a sound I am familar with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mra32 Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 The only thing I would change about that mount is the part that the spring seats around, I would taper the end so that if the spring comes unloaded, it will re-seat properly. I never had a problem with it unless I had the car jacked up, then I would have to go around and make sure the springs were seating correctly. LOL i just aim for the hole in my driveway to get the one that comes out seated again. Sounds horrible, but its a sound I am familar with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 LoL I know the loud CLUNK you are referring to! I got it the first time I dropped the car down... My brother and I had just let the car down and were standing around admiring our work when it popped, scared the shit out of both of us at first! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 LoL I know the loud CLUNK you are referring to! I got it the first time I dropped the car down... My brother and I had just let the car down and were standing around admiring our work when it popped, scared the shit out of both of us at first! Strange...my Regal hasn't done this yet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 I repeat, the a1racing sleeve I posted fits, no mods needed when put on the front. On the rear, kyb strust must be used. Gabriels are too big and I don't know aboot monroe. rob buddy, forgot aboot you! Didn't realize you ome on here much of any these days. jamie if you wanna make mounts with bushings for strut attatchemnt, go ahead, they are gonna wear out quick. I'm going a better route, but a bit more expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 I repeat, the a1racing sleeve I posted fits, no mods needed when put on the front. On the rear, kyb strust must be used. Gabriels are too big and I don't know aboot monroe. rob buddy, forgot aboot you! Didn't realize you ome on here much of any these days. jamie if you wanna make mounts with bushings for strut attatchemnt, go ahead, they are gonna wear out quick. I'm going a better route, but a bit more expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 I really think the standard KYB mounts for the rears are perfectly fine. I can't see a reason to need anything more unless you really want the wheels tucked back there, at which point you'll be scraping every time you go over a speed bump. The front bushings wouldn't bother me if they lasted a year. Doesn't look like it would take more than 30 minutes to replace them both. That is of course, if you could mass produce said bushings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 How are they going to wear out? The ones in my rear one are fine 2 years on the car... If your referring to the steering motion of the car, keep in mind that the strut rod will rotate in the strut body, the spring will rotate on the thrust bearing. There should be no reason for wearing out prematurely, any more so that a stock mount. So either I'm missing something, or a bushing up top will suffice... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 How are they going to wear out? The ones in my rear one are fine 2 years on the car... If your referring to the steering motion of the car, keep in mind that the strut rod will rotate in the strut body, the spring will rotate on the thrust bearing. There should be no reason for wearing out prematurely, any more so that a stock mount. So either I'm missing something, or a bushing up top will suffice... I think a lot of that is because of my held mounts. The bushings were completely gone when I got them, so he had to make me new ones, and supposedly they don't last very long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 Mine are fine. I could see them wearing prematurely if they weren't tightened properly and could move slightly, then they would wear for sure... But installed correctly they shouldn't wear prematurely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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