webbs Posted March 18, 2007 Report Posted March 18, 2007 Is it possible to open the taillights at the seal on a CS? I was just wondering about this one, haven't thought of a real purpose to do this yet. Quote
Psych0matt Posted March 18, 2007 Report Posted March 18, 2007 I don't think so. I have a spare I can look at, but IIRC its one piece. I have the lip tails though, so I don't know if theyre different from the regular ones Quote
19Cutlass94 Posted March 18, 2007 Report Posted March 18, 2007 The only difference between the regular tails and the lip tails is that, the lip. Everything else is the same. Quote
Psych0matt Posted March 18, 2007 Report Posted March 18, 2007 theres also a black edge on the regular ones I'm gonna go grab the spare from the garage and look at it Quote
jdcutty Posted March 18, 2007 Report Posted March 18, 2007 they should be two separate pieces that you can cut at the seal Quote
webbs Posted March 18, 2007 Author Report Posted March 18, 2007 anyone know for a fact or has cut the seam at the seal? Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted March 18, 2007 Report Posted March 18, 2007 What kind of Cutlass? 88-91 coupes have a butyl seal and can be opened. 92-97 coupes are ultrasonically welded and can only be opened destructively. Quote
digitaloutsider Posted March 19, 2007 Report Posted March 19, 2007 I have a Cutlass lip tail right in front of me, and Shawn is right.. there's no way you're getting it open without breaking it. Quote
Scottster Posted March 19, 2007 Report Posted March 19, 2007 You can open it up using the "baking" method. When I had the Contour, it was common for guys to heat the headlights to the point where the sealing glue would get soft, and then seperate the lens from the headlight. Guys would do everything from projector beam/HID conversion, to just painting the inner housing black or something. I bought a headlight from a pickandpull yard, and messed around with it...then decided the stock headlight looked best. But it was a learning experience I guess. Anyway, the method is to pre-heat your oven to 200 degrees, and put the headlight in for about 15 minutes. I found it needed 20 to get the glue soft enough. Have something thin enough to wedge into the seam, and jimmy it open right away, because it cools quickly, and the glue hardens. The most difficult part is convincing yourself to put parts of car into the oven. That's why I bought a scrap light to test it out on. Actually, I guess this link explains it better than I can... http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=384488 Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted March 19, 2007 Report Posted March 19, 2007 Won't work on 92-97 coupe taillights. There is NO glue and NO adhesive. Ultrasonically welded means they are melted together. Cracking, breaking, or dremeling is the only way to get them apart. Quote
Scottster Posted March 19, 2007 Report Posted March 19, 2007 Oh, ok. Are the GP lights ultrasuperduper welded too? Quote
slick Posted March 19, 2007 Report Posted March 19, 2007 Won't work on 92-97 coupe taillights. There is NO glue and NO adhesive. Ultrasonically welded means they are melted together. Cracking, breaking, or dremeling is the only way to get them apart. You'll be finding that on a LOT of newer lamp assemblies anymore. It holds up and seals SOOO much better. Quote
digitaloutsider Posted March 19, 2007 Report Posted March 19, 2007 Oh, ok. Are the GP lights ultrasuperduper welded too Nope. Quote
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