rockfangd Posted April 8, 2007 Report Posted April 8, 2007 How does this trouble end? Did you find the culprit? My cutty is idling high also. It does seem to be temperature sensitive, but, that doesn't leave out the air plenum and intake, as they could seal more as they expand with heat. Where is the coolant temp sensor, is it just behind the thermostat housing, a bad spot of course? This whole engine is nothing but bad spots for things to be worked on. I hope when Oldsmobile was shut down, the engineers on this engine didn't move to Buick. Do you have a better pic of your cutty, i cant tell if its teal or blue. I really like the color [attachment deleted by admin] Removed to free up storage space. Quote
Dirty Rockstar Posted April 8, 2007 Report Posted April 8, 2007 Would a place like this charge to hook up the scan tool? Because if they do, I won't pay it if it's ridiculously high.. Quote
RJansen658 Posted April 8, 2007 Report Posted April 8, 2007 Would a place like this charge to hook up the scan tool? Because if they do, I won't pay it if it's ridiculously high.. Most shops have a diagnostics charge for hooking up a scanner, that is usually creditied towards a repair if you decide to let them fix it. At my shop it is $40, some places its $70. Shops have to charge this, otherwise they are hit hard by tire kickers that just want a free scan so they can go home and fix it. As a tech, you might spend an hour pulling in a car, scanning it, and then answering questions to the customer. 2 or 3 scans in a day like this and a lot of time is wasted. Time is money. This isn't to say I charge every one of my customers $40 if I scan their car for them, a lot of times I don't, depends how long I am on it, and what I determine. Repeat customers I usually never charge for diagnostics. Usually its just people that come specifically for a scan that get charged. Quote
Dirty Rockstar Posted April 8, 2007 Report Posted April 8, 2007 Im fine with paying, I just dont want to pay like a billion dollars to get my thing scanned Quote
PCGUY112887 Posted April 9, 2007 Author Report Posted April 9, 2007 You can get a free scan at Autozone and most other car places. For a very detailed scan and help/advice, then you may be paying for it. I did not get charged however since I have had my mechanic do many jobs for me, referred friends to him, etc. For example he showed me what was all involved in a LIM job when mine busted in the middle of winter so I could decide if I wanted to do it myself or not. I ended up just giving him the job since I had no where warm to work on it. Quote
PCGUY112887 Posted April 15, 2007 Author Report Posted April 15, 2007 OK bumping this back up, problem isn't fixed. Started the car this morning to find it at about ~1700 rpm idle. Drove around anyways, when I got to a place to stop I put it in park and I went up to nearly 3k and held it as soon as I went into park (was high before that, just not as high). Shut it off, turned it back on, everything was fine. Acted up again a bit later in the day, but not nearly as bad. Started to idle high when I was charging my AC, then would drop down, then would go back up, shut it off to change my oil, on restart it was fine. I am really lost here, it SOUNDS almost as if I could have a vac leak under the hood, however a vac leak would always be there and wouldn't go away on keyoff/keyon correct? Replacd so far -TPS, becuase it gave me a code for it a while ago, no codes have been set since. -IAC, because it was a thought Quote
rockfangd Posted April 16, 2007 Report Posted April 16, 2007 CTS? It seems weird that I would get a bad TPS and it act the exact same way again. I am not extremely up on the GM stuff, because I have spent years working on Fords, but none the less, I know that if you are working on a car of any kind, you have to bleed on it in order for it to work right. Did you cut yourself and give the car some blood? If not, you didn't fix it. all i have to say is you couldnt be more right on that statement. Every time i bleed on my jobs they always turn out well Quote
rockfangd Posted April 16, 2007 Report Posted April 16, 2007 I still say it could be th CTS. my car didthe exact same thing, even idled at around 3000 rpm, it was more frequent intermittent. For 11 dollars it is worth a shot on replacing Quote
PCGUY112887 Posted April 16, 2007 Author Report Posted April 16, 2007 CTS as in Coolant Temp Sensor? How exactly could that make it high so high? Quote
PCGUY112887 Posted April 17, 2007 Author Report Posted April 17, 2007 Set SES once again today, low circuit voltage for TPS. AHHHH! Quote
rockfangd Posted April 17, 2007 Report Posted April 17, 2007 it tells the engine that the temp is under 40 below and tells the engine to run wot till it warms up. so basically the CTS shorts out and tells the comp to run WOT all the time Quote
2bluecutlass Posted May 4, 2007 Report Posted May 4, 2007 I am sorry, I have been off the forum for awhile. The car is a 93 Intl.sedan with the 3.4 DOHC. I will get some other pics up soon. My temp gauge works, so I don't think the CTS is bad, unless it is a separate sensor used for the gauge and the PCM. I think mine could be the intake manifold, but, maybe I should get a scan before I rip it apart. It would be a bummer to have it run the same after doing that. I have the heater controls from hell going on with my car also, blinking and flashing. I guess I have got to take that out again. I don't believe we own these cars,they own us! :rolleyes:PS, it is teal, I think. Quote
rockfangd Posted May 4, 2007 Report Posted May 4, 2007 it is a seperate sensor, because my gauge was fine but the car was not. There is a temp sender, and a temp sensor. The temp sensor goes bad. It is at the front of the engine right near the dogbone motor mount near the thermostat. It has a 2 pin plug and the part is about 11 dollars. the gauge will read fine though because that is a different sender though Quote
slick Posted May 4, 2007 Report Posted May 4, 2007 Humongous vacuum leak? I'd go through with TB or carb cleaner and start spraying down your vacuum lines with your car running. Any variation will tell you that there is a leak. Quote
PCGUY112887 Posted May 6, 2007 Author Report Posted May 6, 2007 Well it doesn't appear that I have any vac leaks or anything. I have spent many hours at the mechanics with everyone there trying to figure out what is wrong with my car. The only thing they can come up with is that my PCM is acting up/bad. Basically if the mechanic puts his scan tool on my car while it is idleing high, it shows the IAC counts wayyy too high making it idle wayy too high. At the same time, he can not control the IAC. When it is not acting up, he can control the IAC just fine. IAC has been replaced so the sensor doesn't seem like the issue. All of the wires have been tugged on and such to see if there was a short somewhere, nothing could be found. When it throws a random ass code for TPS voltage being low, he tested the volts by hand but everything checks out. He suggested having my PCM reflashed and maybe replaced if that doesn't help. Quote
rockfangd Posted May 7, 2007 Report Posted May 7, 2007 well the best of luck to ya. pcms are fun because they can screw up a lot of shit. When my CTS went out my neighbor kept trying to tell me that my pcm went bad because of a thunderstorm. Lol i got lucky Quote
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