350TPI Posted February 19, 2007 Report Share Posted February 19, 2007 Hey everybody i am a new TGP owner.I have recently owned a 95 SHO manual trans and i just sold my 88 L98 GTA.Anyway,i just picked up this car from atlanta and seems to be in pretty good shape.While i was underneath it this weekend changing the oil i noticed oil lines that run to the oil pan (oil cooler?) leaking and two lines that run under the radiator with a pretty bad leak.Is it pretty common for these to leak?Do i just need a new o ring?Also,the car has keyless i found out.I had it working for about 5 minutes.Now when i try to ground the black piece to the antenna ground nothing happens.Is this the cold solder part that i have read some about?Lastly,my ABS light repeatedly blinks.All of the time.Any idea whats causing this?The car stops fine.Any help greatly appreciated and i did do a search. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted February 19, 2007 Report Share Posted February 19, 2007 Okay first, for your leaking lines: I would replace the lines. From teh few GP's I've seen (including mine) the old lines leak. I would replace them with new ones that aren't 17 years old. For your ABS light, that is also common; usually it means that your ABS accumulator is dying. A way to test your accumulator is: 1. Get in the car and turn the key to the ON position, but DON'T start the car. 2. Pump the brake pedal and see how many presses of the pedal it takes until your brake pump motor runs. 3. If the pump runs every 3-5 presses, your accumulator is good. If it takes fewer than 3 presses and/or runs while you have a steady foot on the brake pedal, then the accumulator is bad. Start with that and report back. Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350TPI Posted February 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2007 Nick,theres no doubt then the accumulator is bad.I usually hear it every 1-2 pumps at the most and it runs all the time with my foot still on it.Is this very hard to change out or is it better to take it somewhere to have done?Also,can i get one from advance,autozone,etc.BTW,thanks for the reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krenzy Posted February 19, 2007 Report Share Posted February 19, 2007 Oh let me take this one: you'll need a few things to do it: a free weekend, a dictionary the lookup new curse words, and LOTS of Aleve...lol...hopefully Nick will post the links to the pages. I'm about the head out...I'll check back later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted February 19, 2007 Report Share Posted February 19, 2007 The accumulator is easy to replace. It is a small, black bottle that is about the size of your fist that screws onto the PMIII. Looking at your PMIII, it is on the bottom left side. All you have to do to replace it is: 1.Get a NEW accumulator- you should be able to get it from your local dealership for sure, maybe other parts stores. 2.Depressurize your brake system by pumping the brake pedal 40 times (ignition off with key out of car). 3.Disconnect one of your battery cables, make sure it is not connected- underhood light should be OFF. 4.Remove your black intake manifold duct. 5.Take the screws outta the heatshield attached to the PMIII. 6.Remove the old accumulator from the PMIII. (Unscrew it.) 7.Take your O-ring off the old accumulator and put it on the new one. 8.Install new accumulator. 9.Re-install everything you previously removed. 10.You MAY want to bleed your brakes IF they feel spongy after doing this. You don't have to, unless they are spongy. Â If you need any more help, feel free to ask me, as I have completely replaced my PMIII and all braking components just a couple months back, so I know the PMIII like the back of my hand. Keep me posted. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krenzy Posted February 20, 2007 Report Share Posted February 20, 2007 Really? I thoguht it sounded like more of a headache than that lol...what were the prices when you did it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350TPI Posted February 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2007 Well,that really doesnt sound too bad.Thanks for the info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted February 20, 2007 Report Share Posted February 20, 2007 Yeah replacing an accumulator isn't bad. I replaced mine when the PMIII was out of my car, it was SUPER easy to do (not that I'm recommending you remove your PMIII ). On mine, the pump was going on my PMIII, so I had to replace the entire PMIII- that on the other hand was horrible and time consuming! I can now say that my car has a new PMIII and accumulator in it, and the brakes work AWESOME. If you ever need to replace your PMIII, let me know- I have experienced the nightmare and now the brakes work like a dream. If you need any more help, let me know! Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Ride Posted February 20, 2007 Report Share Posted February 20, 2007 Alright, about your leaky oil line, is it by any chance the one that comes off the turbo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350TPI Posted February 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2007 Dark ride,i am not totally sure.I didnt follow the lines.I just assumed oil cooler lines.There is a pretty big mess and you can tell this has been going on for some time.I will follow the turbos oil line and see.I hope not or i will have to stop driving until i fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350TPI Posted February 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2007 Well,i just got home and see some fresh transmission fluid on the ground .Hopefully its just the pan gasket.I had alot of stuff leaking on my SHO so its not a huge deal and luckily i have another car to drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted February 20, 2007 Report Share Posted February 20, 2007 Leaky oil pan is common- it's USUALLY just the gasket- when you replace the gasket, make sure to NOT get a cork gasket. Cork gaskets leak like a mother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350TPI Posted February 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2007 Ok,i am really beginning to think i may have gotten in over my head with this car.I have notice that while driving at a steady speed the car starts surging.Also the transmission kickdown from overdrive is very abrupt.It sounds like it wants to die while idling.I wonder if it has a vac leak.The tranny really bothers me though.I really hope i dont have to rebuild.Keep in mind the car did none of this on the test drive and the tranny fluid is pretty new.Any ideas on any of this stuff?BTW,i really appreciate all of the help and i hope i am not becoming annoying.Thanks,chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted February 21, 2007 Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 Those are all very simple, common issues with TGP's. The surging is PROBABLY because the car is running rich and/or needs its sensors replaced (O2 sensors, sparkplugs, wires, etc) It probably needs a basic tuneup. Another reason teh car is running rich, is that your exhaust crossover pipe is cracked- EVERY TGP made has this problem. The cracked crossover will make your TGP run rich, and want to stall a lot. Luckily, there are two people out there making replacements. Contact Jeff M. on the board here, or Kenny (TGPilot). Replacements run about $350 IIRC. Kenny is easier to get ahold of. Tranny kickdown feeling abrupt: that is usually bad rubber motor mounts. Your rubber dogbones at the top of the engine bay go bad, but they are cheap and easy to replace, also there is a larger motor mount underneath the engine that goes bad (poor GM design). Luckily you can get a better mount from NAPA for $40. Your tranny is most likely not bad- mine did the same exact thing before I replaced my motor mounts. Also, there is supposed to be a vacuum check valve on your tranny, it is VERY common for these to fall off, become misplaced, etc. Look just underneath your turbo, and just to the left, there will be your round trans modulator, and attatched to that will be a rubber tube, attatched to a plastic check valve. There will also be another tube coming off of the check valve, and that tube attatches to a metal tube to your left. ALL of these parts need to be present, and assembled properly, or your tranny will NOT shift properly, trust me, as I had that exact problem, ALL of those parts I mentioned above were GONE on mine, and the tranny would shift so hard, the tires squealed when it shifted. Here is a picture of how all of the parts should be set up: In the center of the picture is the check valve. The tube moving AWAY from you plugs into the transmission modulator. The tube on the left plugs onto the metal tube on the left. The open port on the right side of the check valve MUST stay open, DO NOT put a tube on there, and YES it matters that the check valve is put on there EXACTLY the way I have it pictured. Once it is together like that, your car will shift 10000000X better! Â Â It is possible that you have a vacuum leak, as there are a couple places where the lines like to pop outta place- I wouldn't worry about it at this point, until you get the other issues above fixed, as vacuum lines are not always the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350TPI Posted February 21, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 Nick,thanks again man.I guess i overreacted a bit but now i feel better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted February 21, 2007 Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 Thats okay man- I felt exactly the same way when I got my TGP last summer- I had VERY close to the exact same problems you have, and finally managed to solve them, so yeah it will take a little work and time, but you'll get all the bugs worked out. Be aware that it will take some time to do so . I'm STILL working on mine I have my tranny, brakes, vacuum line, and electrical problems all solved, and now I am working on the engine and suspension. Feel free to ask questions: odds are, I know EXACTLY what you are talking about. Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted February 21, 2007 Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 Here is where you can get your exhaust crossover replaced: http://www.tgpforums.com/index.php?topic=3203.0 All the information you need about your crossover, you will find here. Kenny, the guy that does these is EXCELLENT to deal with and is very helpful. Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350TPI Posted February 21, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 Nick,i forgot to tell you in the last post that the car already has the topgun 160 chip and jeff m crossover so atleast someone did that already.Also,i just got back from the parts store and spent over $100 on front dogbones,02 sensor,plugs and wires.Hopfully this will make a difference.They didnt have an accumulator though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted February 21, 2007 Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 Oh- having the chip and crossover will definitely eliminates a lot of problems then. I'm guessing at this point that it is just a tuneup you need. BTW, when you order an O2 sensor, order an AC Delco one with the purple wire- they last MUCH longer than any other O2 sensor on the market for these cars. Did you order a LOWER motor mount also? It is the one that goes UNDERNEATH the engine- costs $40 at NAPA. For plugs, just the standard AC Delco's work fine. Performance plugs for these cars are AC Delco Rapidfires- don't waste your money on platinum plugs- they don't work well on TGP's. The accumulator you should be able to get at the GM/Pontiac dealership. Last I heard they were around $80.... that was a few years ago though. Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350TPI Posted February 21, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 Well,i just installed the dogbones and o2 sensor.I drove it down the road and it feels much smoother.I got a/c delco plugs and wires.I wish i would have read your post first because i bought and installed the bosch o2 already.I will get the bottom one tomorrow.How hard is that to change out?I will get the plugs and wires on tomorrow evening.They look pretty old.Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted February 21, 2007 Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 To replace your lower engine mount, you need to: Jack up the motor- put a piece of wood in between the oil pan and the jack, and jack it up. BE CAREFUL WITH THE OIL PAN- IT IS VERY EASY TO PUNCTURE!!! Then you remove the old mount and put the new one in. Make sure to clean up all oil around that area, because rubber motor mounts and oil don't get along... Thats it Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted February 21, 2007 Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 The accumulator you should be able to get at the GM/Pontiac dealership. Last I heard they were around $80.... that was a few years ago though.  $132 + shipping for the GM units from GMPartsDirect.com  The part # is 88927271 fwiw.  Prior Remanufacturing located in Texas has accumulators for our cars as well. They were about $100-105 w/ shipping back in 2005 when I purchased one. The prior unit is a little bit harder to install due to it's larger size, but it's still not a hard job. Prior's phone #/info can be found here if you go that route.  http://www.priorreman.com/ - The prior accumulator is part # 4900100 just in case they do not list it online. I think they still only list the whole PM3 unit on the website. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Ride Posted February 21, 2007 Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 Well,i just got home and see some fresh transmission fluid on the ground .Hopefully its just the pan gasket.I had alot of stuff leaking on my SHO so its not a huge deal and luckily i have another car to drive. If its shifting weird i bet you are low on tranny fluid. Also the reason I asked about the oile line is because its also very common for the oil return line on the turbo to get fall apart inside and would leak oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350TPI Posted February 21, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 Dark Ride,the first thing i checked was the tranny fluid when it started feeling weird.This morning on my way to work i didnt notice anything.Maybe it was just the motor mounts making the tranny feel worse than what it really is. Nick thanks,that doesnt seem so bad.I really do enjoy driving this car and i dont mind spending money on it (to a point). mfewtrail,thanks for the part # and link.I will be changing it this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted February 28, 2007 Report Share Posted February 28, 2007 Here is a vacuum line diagram- this should help you get all the lines sorted out. BTW the tranny check valve is drawn wrong on this drawing, so ignore that one . The rest of the lines and check valves are accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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