compu_85 Posted February 9, 2007 Report Share Posted February 9, 2007 A front wheel bearing on our 02 seems to have gone out (buzzing / vibration that starts at about 25 mph, and the tone changes the faster you go). The dealer wants $520 to replace it. He said the bearing can't be replaced by itself, that it's part of an assembly with the bearing, hub, and ABS sensor. Is this the case? This is my sister's car, and I'm not really inclined to learn how to do this in the cold. Does the dealer's price sound fair? He said the new part would have a lifetime warranty. Does this price sound about right? -Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted February 9, 2007 Report Share Posted February 9, 2007 Nope. It's a scare tactic to get you to trust that they are doing you a favor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted February 9, 2007 Report Share Posted February 9, 2007 Yes, you have to replace the entire assembly. I paid $180 IIRC for the part from Advance Auto. Did it myself. Took about two hours taking it slow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted February 9, 2007 Report Share Posted February 9, 2007 The difference between a regular bearing and an ABS bearing are 2 holes. The wheel comes off. The brake caliper and bracket are removed. A 38mm socket with a breaker bar is used to loosen the center bolt on the hub. The bolts to the bad hub are accessed from the back if the unit. You remove them and set them aside (2 cost me $15). Using the 38mm socket the center bolt is removed to allow the splines of the axle to release from the splines of the bearing. In behind you can feel or see the bolt for the wiring to the sensor. Tap the sensor's studs to free it off the hub. Sometimes a little swearing and copious amounts of banging is required (it was for my 93') to free the unit from the strut's knuckle. Once it's off you can clean up the area where the new unit goes. Reverse of removal for installation. *word of warning- Do not use an impact wrench to put the new hub nut back on. The bearing can be damaged from the hammer-shock of an impact wrench.* Use elbow grease or similar gusto and put the nut back on by hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted February 9, 2007 Report Share Posted February 9, 2007 I could've swore it's a 36mm nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94CutlassSLCoupe Posted February 9, 2007 Report Share Posted February 9, 2007 I think its 36 as well and the wheel bearings are drastically different between a 1st gen and 2nd gen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99RegalGS Posted February 10, 2007 Report Share Posted February 10, 2007 Stevo, 2nd gen W's are completely different. The abs sensor IS part of the hub as Shaun said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3WH12-96 Posted February 10, 2007 Report Share Posted February 10, 2007 as far as the dealer screwing you he is ....I work at a dealer and that job pays .8 hrs....$80 then your avg gm hub brg is and i picked a familar part # and looked up list price and it was 323.46 ...dont know your specific P/N sitting here on the couch watching tv but ne way so we are at 403.46 and there is no extra charge for going to a dealer that is LSG so he is almost $120 high Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted February 10, 2007 Report Share Posted February 10, 2007 Stevo, 2nd gen W's are completely different. The abs sensor IS part of the hub as Shaun said. Not to mention ABS was standard across all second gens right? Yeah, umm when you tighten it down, make sure to get the right torque spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted February 10, 2007 Report Share Posted February 10, 2007 I could've swore it's a 36mm nut. Your probably right. I did the 93' in Sept. and I can forget such details if I don't do it on a regular basis. The actual sensor is a plastic box with a small metal 'contact' which counts the teeth from the axle whose splines interlock to the inner portion (outer portion is the casing affixed to the knuckle) and thus the wheel. The sensor then feeds the info back to the computer so it can do its work. Now if I remember doing this right. The sensor is affixed to the bearing/hub with 2 prongs to keep it in line and the harness is held by a single bolt. I can remove the hub and keep the sensor as long as the sensor is working. It's cheaper too. I can't and won't quote the torque specs since I only have the 93' manual. Am I right about the description? I'm not saying I am 100% correct. I can see where someone is ripping you. I can't see the hubs being so different. Unless the manufacture has in fact fully incorporated the sensor to the hub bearing so that if anything goes bad the whole unit gets tossed which is more expensive. Kinda like some computer mother boards that have everything built in, sound, video, networking, and such. You have to toss the whole board if any one goes bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3WH12-96 Posted February 10, 2007 Report Share Posted February 10, 2007 here are your torque specs....ignore the mention of special tools this job can be done by a novice hope this helps Document ID# 653267 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Front Wheel Bearing and Hub Replacement Tools Required J 42129 Wheel Hub Remover Removal Procedure Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle . Remove the tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation . Disconnect the wheel speed sensor electrical connector (2), if equipped. Remove the wheel speed sensor electrical connector from the bracket, if equipped. Remove the front wheel drive shaft nut (2). Insert a drift or flat-bladed tool (1) into the caliper and rotor to prevent from turning. Remove the brake rotor. Refer to Front Brake Rotor Replacement . Use 3 wheel nuts in order to attach the J 42129 to the wheel bearing/hub. Use the J 42129 in order to push the wheel drive shaft out of the wheel bearing/hub. Remove and DISCARD the wheel bearing/hub bolts. Remove the J 42129 from the hub. Important: Ensure that the wheel drive shaft outer seal/boot is not damaged. Remove the wheel bearing/hub and splash shield-noting the position of the shield for re-installation. Installation Procedure Install the wheel bearing/hub with the splash shield as noted during removal. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices. Caution: These fasteners MUST be replaced with new fasteners anytime they become loose or are removed. Failure to replace these fasteners after they become loose or are removed may cause loss of vehicle control and personal injury. Install NEW wheel bearing/hub bolts. Tighten Tighten the NEW wheel bearing/hub bolts to 130 N·m (96 lb ft). Install the brake rotor and caliper. Refer to Front Brake Rotor Replacement . Install the front wheel drive shaft nut. Insert a drift on a flat-bladed tool into caliper and rotor to prevent the rotor from turning. Tighten Tighten the front wheel drive shaft nut to 160 N·m (118 lb ft). Important: Ensure that the connector clip engages the bracket properly. Install the wheel speed sensor electrical connector to the bracket, if equipped. Connect the wheel speed sensor electrical connector (2), if equipped. Install the tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation . Lower the vehicle. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Document ID# 653267 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99RegalGS Posted February 10, 2007 Report Share Posted February 10, 2007 Unless the manufacture has in fact fully incorporated the sensor to the hub bearing so that if anything goes bad the whole unit gets tossed Bingo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted February 10, 2007 Report Share Posted February 10, 2007 Ahhh ... they moved the exciter ring onto the hub... Now I get it.. Bastard money grubbing designers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94CutlassSLCoupe Posted February 11, 2007 Report Share Posted February 11, 2007 they were actually trying to make the ABS sensor more reliable. TONS of 1st gens have the ABS light on because of bad front wheel speed sensors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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