kfahn Posted February 6, 2007 Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 I have been having an interesting issue with my GP. Just in time for how ridiculously cold it is outside, (4 degrees F) my car has stopped heating. It heats to roughly 100 degrees and stops there. My fear is that the thermostat is stuck open, but I cannot be sure. I would appreciate it if anyone knew of a few things that I could try! Also, I am sure that it is not getting above 100 degrees, because the heat is blowing cold, and the guage reads low. Thanks in advance ~Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted February 6, 2007 Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 More than likely, your looking at a t-state stuck open. Hate to say it because I know its a PITA on the 3100's... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted February 6, 2007 Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 well on the bright side your cars not going to overheat! Better to have it stuck open than closed. I had mine stick closed and next thing I knew I was replacing coolant lines and everything Timing sucks though Not familiar with that engine, but if the t-stat is a pain in the ass maybe think about having a shop do it? Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted February 6, 2007 Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 The t-stat is right inbetween the xover for the exhaust and the LIM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted February 6, 2007 Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 T-stat stuck open on my co-workers 3800 lesabre. I blocked all but the top inch of the radiator with cardboard to no real benefit whatsoever. I'm a nice ass, so i guess I'll fix it on friday.... hell not freezing over permitted. I just did two 3100 Tstats two weeks ago. PITA. remove the front bypass pipe. (one 8mm bolt, one 15mm and one 13mm nut) detach the front spark plug wires and set them aside. remove the throttle body and move it to the side with it's cables(two 13mm bolts, deep well socket needed), remove the radiator hose to tstat housing, and remove the tstat housing (2 13mm bolts, wrench required) But a lifetime stainless steel T-stat(advanced has one). I tried drilling a small hole in one T-stat to prevent air entrapment. I discourage this, I think it allows too much flowby. I'll be pulling and blocking that hole on a later date now. reassemble! and replace the throttle gasket and O-ring fro the bypass tube. now disconnect either (1) the ecm temp sensor at the t-stat, remove the sensor and backfill the system with a long neck funnel from right behind the T-stat (my prefered method), or (2) backfill the system from the hose going from the tstat housing to the heater core. For now, how about lining the radiator with cardboard and a thick garbage bag to practically kill airflow? you can always pull some away of you need to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted February 6, 2007 Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 I dunno why it didn't come to me earlier... My car is doing this too! I had my t-stat replaced with a 180* unit this past summer. This winter I have been lucky if my temp hits the green line in the pic belowe. I just figured this was cause I went down to the 180 Myabe I will have to try the carboard trick... Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdcutty Posted February 6, 2007 Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 I dunno why it didn't come to me earlier... My car is doing this too! I had my t-stat replaced with a 180* unit this past summer. This winter I have been lucky if my temp hits the green line in the pic belowe. I just figured this was cause I went down to the 180 Myabe I will have to try the carboard trick... Jamie Damn Canadians and your Celcius. And i dont see the issue with changing a t-stat on a 3100, i've done it twice in 45 min. And that included taking it for a test drive, and going to buy a 2nd one at autozone. Turned out to be the head gasket though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted February 6, 2007 Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 180 T-stat = 82.222222* F Based on that conversion, my car should run right where the need is in that pic, but it hasn't run there for ages. Damn canadians and celcius... the rest of the world is saying damn us and their imperial... Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted February 6, 2007 Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 And i dont see the issue with changing a t-stat on a 3100, i've done it twice in 45 min. And that included taking it for a test drive, and going to buy a 2nd one at autozone. I managed to change the T-Stat in my old 95 GP without removing the TB, or the x-over pipe. All I had to do was remove the airbox and upper rad hose, then unbolt the metal pipe from the top of the water pump and slide it out of the way. The rear bolt hole on the t-stat housing is notched so you don't need to remove the bolt fully to slide the housing out. And you can easily slide your fingers behind the x-over pipe (I had a good 1/2" clearance.) The open-end wrench is your friend here ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirty Rockstar Posted February 6, 2007 Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 How much coolant is needed to be drained (if any) for the Tstat swap on the 3100? Gonna try tackling it thursday afternoon or friday.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 the heavy duty lifetime stant stainless thermostats I purchased actaully are taller than the previous tstats. this required me to completely remove the throttle body and both the T-stat housing bolts. get a lower profile t-stat and the job will be easier. -and I don't like the 180 degree t-stat. I would drain the radiator of about 1/2 it's contents by releaseing the drain plug on it's drivers side, collecting it in a pan. You could reuse the coolant or go all the way and to a flush and replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 Why don't you like the 180* T-stat? Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 Why don't you like the 180* T-stat? Jamie I guess I like the efficiency of the proper tstat. granted I do drive constant 500+ mile sprints (yuck!) and an engine run with an under performing tstat is supposedly more prone to ring wear or something perplexing I read. I would still like it if the cooling fans turn on sooner rather than later, but I guess thats personal preference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mra32 Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 is the procedure for changing the t-stat the same on a 91 3.1? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 is the procedure for changing the t-stat the same on a 91 3.1? no. 2.8/3.1 procedure: open hood, remove two 13mm bolts holding t-stat housing to the motor. remove t-stat housing. replace t-stat. reinstall. check fluids. backfill the system by pouring coolant directly where the T-stat sits if necessary. operate bleeder valve if necessary (or check fluid in 24 hours like me) shut hood. elapsed time? 90 seconds on a bad day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mra32 Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 is the procedure for changing the t-stat the same on a 91 3.1? no. 2.8/3.1 procedure: open hood, remove two 13mm bolts holding t-stat housing to the motor. remove t-stat housing. replace t-stat. reinstall. check fluids. backfill the system by pouring coolant directly where the T-stat sits if necessary. operate bleeder valve if necessary (or check fluid in 24 hours like me) shut hood. elapsed time? 90 seconds on a bad day. I <3 ken (In a totally heterosexual w-body way) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kfahn Posted February 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 I've got to say, I'm not exactly happy, but thanks for all the w-body information all the same! I tried the procedure myself the other day, and I don't think that I am going to go for it. Looks like it will be off to the mechanic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mra32 Posted February 12, 2007 Report Share Posted February 12, 2007 Ok so I changed the thermostat and the heat on my car works pretty good, the only thing is that the idle seems to be really low now. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted February 12, 2007 Report Share Posted February 12, 2007 Ok so I changed the thermostat and the heat on my car works pretty good, the only thing is that the idle seems to be really low now. Any thoughts? numbers? rmember if your car was running cold the idle will never reach normal 'hot' idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mra32 Posted February 12, 2007 Report Share Posted February 12, 2007 Ok so I changed the thermostat and the heat on my car works pretty good, the only thing is that the idle seems to be really low now. Any thoughts? numbers? rmember if your car was running cold the idle will never reach normal 'hot' idle. yeah i have a base gauge cluster. the only gauges on there are gas and speed (and they both read very poorly). I suppose this question was to make sure i didnt make any installation errors that would cause a lower idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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