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ChadZ34's LUMINA Project thread.


chadz34

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This thing will be updated everyday. So, I forgot to mention some stuff. First of all the car developed a grinding noise in the steering column, that does not affect the steering, but pisses me off enough. My check engine light came on, which is awesome, maybe it was something that finally went that was affecting my car. So, tomorrow my car goes into the Chevy dealership ONLY for my highway speed wobble/vibration and brake vibration. I am gonna have them look at the steering wheel noise too. I am gonna have an alignment done, then check why the lights on. Then the car comes back here for a few months. I will update every day so you guys can see my progress on the Lumina. I am gonna get all new plugs, bigger wires maybe. All new coil packs and ICM. Possibly new fuel injectors. I am going to redo ALL vacuum lines. I need a new IAC. Basically, I am replacing old shitty parts wiht new better working parts, I am gonan run it at the track this year too. I am going to end up going with ricers.... :redface: Anyways, I'll keep this bad boy updated! :cool:

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Probably belongs in the powertrain section.

 

Good luck, you will have a better feeling, knowing that you did it yourself.

It probably does belong there, but I didn't want anyone thinking I had plans or racking up my post count. I just thought it would be a casually looked at thread, and didn't want it to affect other people wiht real problems. Thanks, tohugh Matt....I will feel alot better when I hear it start and run good, knowing I did it myslef. :biggrin:

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I did my shift kit today with absolutely no idea what I was doing, for the most part. The only thing I had was a guide from ClubGP. I got covered in transmission fluid, and came close to swallowing some of it when the accumulator nearly fell on my face. But in the end, feeling the car shift like it should was priceless.

 

There's nothing better than the feeling of doing it yourself. If it's already broke what's the worse you can do, break it more? Get that bitch running right!

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UPDATE for today, the car was at the dealership and the results are it needs left side tie rod and ball joints....about 1,000 in parts and labour, so fuck that.....My dad and I are going to do that. And the SES light was on for 4 things. Number one, there was a MAP sensor error, a EGR error and an EVAP error and last but least my favourite a trans slip. :lol: I am loving it, just when it can't get any worse. :rolleyes: I am gonna give it a flush and filter change and see if that helps if not, I will need a re-build. So, right now the car is in the driveway completely clean in the middle of winter, I am gonna move it to the garage to start the project.

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Today's project for the Lumina is to change all of it's plugs and correctly gap them. I have heard both .045 and .060 and I am not sure which one to use. Anyone know what the proper gap is? My underhood emission sheet says .060 and the owners manual says .045 so I am real confused. :redface:

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I would suggest that you do the pan drop FIRST (when servicing the trans), and take a close look at what's in the pan (thrust washers, metal shavings, clutch material or whatever) before you do the flush (which you CAN do yourself).

 

It might also be a good idea to look at the filter.............hit the plastic side with a hammer once you get it out (I'm serious here) to shatter the backing, then pull out all the pieces of plastic to get at the filter element itself.........then simply peel that sucker out of there (it's attached to the metal at the pickup hole), split it open and take a look. Be aware, it WILL have some metal in it if this is the cars first filter change............you are just looking for anything particularly nasty.

 

THEN...........if all is ok, finish off the pan drop, add the 6.5qts but do NOT start the car (to top it off)............instead, drop the cooler return line into a bucket, put in your funnel and turn on the car..........as nasty fluid dumps out (into said big ol bucket), continue to add fluid. Do this until the fluid coming out goes nice and red (you should have a nice reserve of new fluid sitting in the pan from the completed pan drop). At this point, shut the car off (it should have just been idling), and proceed to add fluid until you have the correct level on the dipstick (you'll almost always have to add, as it's hard to keep up by poring in the fill tube).

 

Anyway, do it right and you'll have 100% new fluid, a new filter and pan gasket AND a good idea of what is (or is not) going on in there. Not to mention, you SHOULD only use 14 qts of atf (or so) TOTAL.

 

 

 

Whatever you do though................NO additives (no Lucas or any of that shit) until you NEED to bandaid the tranny (which it sounds like you do NOT need to do yet).

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BTW.......the above is way easier with a helper.

 

 

 

Finally............I wonder if the noise in your steering might not be the intermediate stering shaft.

 

That's not to say that you DON'T have a bad balljoint or tie rod or anything, but just that fixing THOSe, might not fix the noise.

 

IM steering shafts that make noise are REAL common on newer GM's.

 

 

 

Oh.........and gap the plugs to the emissions sticker numbers like outsider said.........

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For the SES codes, look out that those weren't set a while ago. Every now and them my GP 3.4 wouldn't start well and would throw a set of codes...nothing to do with the car, just a bad start.

 

It might be worth the 40 bucks US to get a code reader. It lets you see the code problems and reset the codes. Since it works with all/most OBD II cars, you're not throwing your money away.

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Today's update, I changed the plugs today, I went with the .060 plug gap...and broke the centre gasket on the intake, and the intake arm gasket already was cut....So, I ordered them and will be picking them up tomorrow morning, and will begin re-install of the plenum tomorrow. Is there anything else I should replace while the plenum is off? Is there anything I can use to clean the dirty shit off the plenum inside?

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clean the egr if you havent already and replace the pcv valve and if you have the money throw a new map sensor on there. now would also be a good time to start on those vac lines, with the intake off you can get to all of them. you might even want to put in a new knock sensor, if you are going through and replacing everything. the knock sensor will be 1000x easier with the intake off. just ideas though. good luck with the project.

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clean the egr if you havent already and replace the pcv valve and if you have the money throw a new map sensor on there. now would also be a good time to start on those vac lines, with the intake off you can get to all of them. you might even want to put in a new knock sensor, if you are going through and replacing everything. the knock sensor will be 1000x easier with the intake off. just ideas though. good luck with the project.

Thanks for the reply...I have a new PCV valve....How does GM do the damn vacuum lines, can you order the lines or..? Liek how does that work? Knock sensor.....I have no idea where that is located...I need to order a MAP sensor mine does not work. I NEED a NEW EGR valve as mine put a rotten ass smell out the exhuast and makes a putt putt noise...was bad enough to throw a code. :redface:

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most of the line you just buy and cut to length, especially that real small 1/8 inch plastic stuff. the knock sensor is on the back of the block under the manifold, theres a plug that you just pull stright off and the youll need a 22mm wrench and unscrew the whole thing. (you may be able to do it by hand but my manifold was on when i did mine so i had to go a different route. i got my map sensor at advanced auto for like 35 bucks, any parts store will have them. and as for the egr, its honestly cheaper to have ben make you a chip with it turned off. $130 vs. $210. and usually a rotten egg smell is a bad cat. also cheap to fix. hope this helps good luck.

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most of the line you just buy and cut to length, especially that real small 1/8 inch plastic stuff. the knock sensor is on the back of the block under the manifold, theres a plug that you just pull stright off and the youll need a 22mm wrench and unscrew the whole thing. (you may be able to do it by hand but my manifold was on when i did mine so i had to go a different route. i got my map sensor at advanced auto for like 35 bucks, any parts store will have them. and as for the egr, its honestly cheaper to have ben make you a chip with it turned off. $130 vs. $210. and usually a rotten egg smell is a bad cat. also cheap to fix. hope this helps good luck.

Yeah, can Ben make a chip for a 96' Lumina DOHC though?, I know he can for earlier OBD-1 cars, but not OBD-II cars.

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oops :redface: forgot theres no chip for the 94+ 3.4's anyways you can still clean you egr, thats usually what causes them to act up, just use some carb cleaner and clean the crap out of it. its worth a shot.

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oops :redface: forgot theres no chip for the 94+ 3.4's anyways you can still clean you egr, thats usually what causes them to act up, just use some carb cleaner and clean the crap out of it. its worth a shot.

Yeah, I already tried that...I think she's had a life....Oh well. I will keep updating this...I will add pics too.

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Plugs are in I chose BOSCH plugs...they aren't the +2 or +4 ones....They have a pin centre electrode that is covered with insulation. The centre electrode does not come out of the insulation, so I wanted to see how these plugs run. I heard these specific plugs ran good in someones Monte Carlo (Canadian Tire emplyee). However upon intallation, I ruined BOTH intake gaskets hahaha. So, I ordered them from NAPA they were 5 dollars each. :lol: Then I realized, hey my exhuast is pretty low.....HOLY FUCK BOTH hangers are broke....I'll be the first to say aside from paint and visual appearance, this car is a piece of shit hahaha. I am gonna cut the mufflers off to tkae weight off the rest of the system. Then, I will replace them with Magnaflows with 94' Camaro Z28 tips that will sit 1 inch under the bumper..I think will look TITTIES! :biggrin:

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why on gods green earth did you buy bosch plugs? have you not read the countless threads about how our waste-spark system destroys them? they might run ok for 20k or so? delcos are the way to go, repidfires if you are feeling spendy.

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[sighs]..

 

Take them back to the store and get the correct AC Delco plugs. The 3.4 ESPECIALLY does not like Bosch. Don't you EVER read this forum?! Or any other W-body forum for that matter?

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Todays update, I changed to AC DELCO plugs by order of digitaloutsider, and ordered the first part of my project....MAP SENSOR, EVAP PURGE SENSOR and Plenum gaskets since both fucking broke taking it off. :cry:

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