Snakesk8s Posted June 7, 2003 Report Share Posted June 7, 2003 Ok I've been trying to change my front rotors for a while now... After you pull off the caliper then you have to disconnect the thing that holds it (no clue what the right name is)... It needs a pretty big star bit to get it off, but the problem is that I can't get it OFF!!!!! It's DRIVING ME NUTS!! I'm about to torch it, but I know thats not the best thing to do! I've bent two star bits allready!!!! They SUCK, WD40 didn't do jack Sh*T either!!! PLEASE HELP!!! I have been just changing the pads like every other month, but for some freak reason, 3 out of 5 wheel studs just broke off!!!! And I can't change them w/ the rotor still on!!!! PLEASE HELP!!! I am stuck in MASS. when I live in NY... and I have to go to work on Monday... and I'm not even sure if I can get home before that!!! THANKS!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdelorie Posted June 7, 2003 Report Share Posted June 7, 2003 Wow... that, um... sucks. Only thing I can suggest short of the torch is some LPS1 or LPS2. I personally find it works way better than WD40. You could use the torch, just be careful or else you'll melt the piston boots and whatnot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snakesk8s Posted June 7, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2003 Ok thanks for the idea.... I REALLLLY AM GETTING PISSED AT THIS CAR!!! I have a friend that should be able to get it off, he works on cars all the time... but as of now, he's unavailable!!! Any other info would be great!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slade901 Posted June 7, 2003 Report Share Posted June 7, 2003 You could try using a larger extension like a big pipe or your lug nut wrench as an added lever to give you enough force to loosen the nut. Just a reminder that make sure you are turning it (loosen) and not mistakenly tightening it. With regards to the studs, I've replaced a couple of studs before with other cars and (rotor not removed) and I have to put a block of wood behind the rotor and use a long bolt and big sledge hammer to loosen the stud and just put in a new stud and tightening it with a lug nut to pull in the stud in back in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91GranSport Posted June 7, 2003 Report Share Posted June 7, 2003 That "star" is actually called "Torx". I think you need a T45 Torx to get it off. You might need a little heat to help loosen it but it shouldn't be that bad. Use the proper socket/bit and you'll be able to get it off. Ok I've been trying to change my front rotors for a while now... After you pull off the caliper then you have to disconnect the thing that holds it (no clue what the right name is)... It needs a pretty big star bit to get it off, but the problem is that I can't get it OFF!!!!! It's DRIVING ME NUTS!! I'm about to torch it, but I know thats not the best thing to do! I've bent two star bits allready!!!! They SUCK, WD40 didn't do jack Sh*T either!!! PLEASE HELP!!! I have been just changing the pads like every other month, but for some freak reason, 3 out of 5 wheel studs just broke off!!!! And I can't change them w/ the rotor still on!!!! PLEASE HELP!!! I am stuck in MASS. when I live in NY... and I have to go to work on Monday... and I'm not even sure if I can get home before that!!! THANKS!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patgizz Posted June 7, 2003 Report Share Posted June 7, 2003 heat the thing where the bolts thread in(technical term = caliper bracket). then - get some real vise grips and get em on there tight(real vise grips, not tiawan, china, crapsman) and if need be, get the BFH(big fuckin hammer) and whack them. it will come off. all my luminas have had this problem and this solves it every time. just get the vise grips on there really tight and you'll be fine. when you re-assemble, use anti-seize(the silver stuff that never comes off your clothes) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted June 7, 2003 Report Share Posted June 7, 2003 yeah, either get a cheater bar to get some more torque, or just heat em up an start whacking them. Hammers make most jobs easier Robby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted June 7, 2003 Report Share Posted June 7, 2003 I had the same problem. We just kept at it, and it finally broke loose. We found that brake fluid works just as good as WD-40 at breaking stuff apart, so try that, and let it soak for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian89gp Posted June 7, 2003 Report Share Posted June 7, 2003 Its a T60 torx bit. I used a 2' breaker bar with a 4' pipe on the end of that and beat it with a hammer, they will eventually come out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Burning Rom Posted June 7, 2003 Report Share Posted June 7, 2003 Its a T60 torx bit. I used a 2' breaker bar with a 4' pipe on the end of that and beat it with a hammer, they will eventually come out. I just took mine of last weekend, and that's what I did. Once I had it off though, I had to heat up the torx bolt to get it off of the piece of steel it was screwed through. I coated it with Nevercease before I put it back on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crc Posted June 8, 2003 Report Share Posted June 8, 2003 Dude, I wouldn't put a bolt that important back on if had to go through all of that to take it off.. get a new one For the Torx bit I had the best luck finding them at auto part shops, most other places don't have them upto size 60 and that's what you need. and I'm almost sure you need a 1/2" drive, not 1/4". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patgizz Posted June 8, 2003 Report Share Posted June 8, 2003 oh ya, if you break a torx trying to get that thing off, use a 3/8" allen to get it off instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi133 Posted June 8, 2003 Report Share Posted June 8, 2003 oh yay, I'm doing my front rotors tomorrow. I think they are supposed to be torqued to 140 something ft/lbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted June 8, 2003 Report Share Posted June 8, 2003 You should be able to get the Torx T60 from ANY auto parts store. They're sold everywhere that Lisle tools can be found. The easiest way to get the old one off is to drop by your nearest Harbor Freight and pick up one of those $20 12V impact wrenches. They're slow, but they work! Best $20 I ever spent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rglguy Posted June 8, 2003 Report Share Posted June 8, 2003 ok here is a reply that i want you all americans and candaina who dont have as much salt and snow as we do here in northern ontatrio, what workes every time................. make sure you take the caliper off....heat the thing up real good, try not to get the bolt, then get some brake fluid, and dump it on let it sit, and it should come off, brake fluid is #1 when it comes to pentratin oils!! as for saftey, gard you knuckls, and the fluid may flame up if its hot enough..... and the torx, i dont htink its a 60, i dont havea T^0, and i take mine off al the time to clean, its a 50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian89gp Posted June 8, 2003 Report Share Posted June 8, 2003 I'm positive its a T60, I broke 5 of them before i found a 1/2 T60 that was beefy enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted June 8, 2003 Report Share Posted June 8, 2003 Yep, it's positively a T60, I just went in the garage and looked at mine. Considering how tight that bolt can be, you're definitely gonna strip the bolt if you use anything less than a T60. I've broken one of the T60's and I just noticed the one I have is bent kinda funny, it probably doesn't have long to go! Better pick up a couple spares! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snakesk8s Posted June 8, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2003 well I finally got in touch w/ my friend... he's getting the car in the morning. It was his idea to use vise grips too.... Just to clarify, I did use the right Torx and I BROKE IT, TWICE!!!! THEY ARE A PIECE OF SH*T!!! And a 2' foot pipe! I just kept twisting the bit! But I didn't think of using the allen wrench though.... Well HOPFULLY, we will be able to do it tomorrow!!! I need to drive home right after! Thanks for the help! I'm just about ready to just torch it and get the ins money! It's been driving me nuts!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nerfbars Posted June 8, 2003 Report Share Posted June 8, 2003 T60 OTC 1/2 dr Impact quality is the answer! After I did mine the first time and put anti-seeze on it I've never had a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted June 8, 2003 Report Share Posted June 8, 2003 T60 OTC 1/2 dr Impact quality is the answer! After I did mine the first time and put anti-seeze on it I've never had a problem. I don't think you want to put anti-seize on it! In fact, GM recommends putting threadlock on it. I don't bother putting anything on it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patgizz Posted June 8, 2003 Report Share Posted June 8, 2003 i've had 4 w-bodies, put anti seize on every one of these bolts(16 bolts, 4 per car), and no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nerfbars Posted June 8, 2003 Report Share Posted June 8, 2003 I have anti-seeze on all the brake and hub bolts on both of my Cuttlass Supremes and have never had a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi133 Posted June 8, 2003 Report Share Posted June 8, 2003 Just did mine, went pretty well. I had some NICE torx bits, 3/8" drive. But my only breaker bar which is 1.5 foot long is 1/2" drive. So I used an adapter. Lucky I had two adapters because I twisted one of them in half. All I did was let it soak in WD-40 for a good while. Then pull really damn hard on the bar. When I put em back together I used some hi temp grease on the threads because they were all rusty, then bout broke my arm off torquin them down to ~ 145, the limit of my bendy bar style torque wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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