chadz34 Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 Ok, I want to try and fix all the random bugs in my engine, so here goes.....I noticed my car idles higher on startup, when warm? WTF? I also notice when I put it in park, it will rev up....go to almost a stall and correct itself, and in servere case will stall. I have random idles, and I can hear popping in the exhaust every few seconds ONLY when the car is hot....was on the GM TECH II machine and has NO MISSES....exhaust smells hot and burning doesn't smell like gas at all....only when cold. I changed my coil packs, wires, plugs, fuel filter pretty much everything.....any opinions on anything mentioned would be awesome...thanks ChadZ34. Oh, another thing, I went to put my car in overdrive from park, and nothing happened, it acted as if it was still in neutral, so I put it regular drive and it engaged WTF only happened once though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 Shot in the dark here... have you tried cleaning or replacing your IAC? its a $100 part so I would suggest trying to clean it first. I had some idle problems a while back and replaced that, didn't solve the idle issues completely, but it helped. My problem ended up being a pinched vaccuum line in one spot and a severed vaccuum line going under the batter to the vaccuum reservoir (battery acid had eaten the vaccuum hose away completely) Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 check all your vaccuum lines (those can cause all sorts of random problems), clean your IAC, EGR, and maybe run some seafoam and a bottle of injector cleaner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chadz34 Posted January 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 check all your vaccuum lines (those can cause all sorts of random problems), clean your IAC, EGR, and maybe run some seafoam and a bottle of injector cleaner I have ran seafoam twice in my car and I ran injector cleaner throug it too. This is very frustrating. Why would it rev up when I put it in park, and then almost stall? Or have a wicked unstable idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 did you clean the IAC and EGR ports? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chadz34 Posted January 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 did you clean the IAC and EGR ports? I had the IAC cleaned but I don't know what your talking abotu with the EGR ports. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 on your plenum, behind the throttle body, a big thing with a plug on top of it, almost like a triangle shape. take it off (3 allen screws), clean it out good with brake cleaner, and put it back together. easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chadz34 Posted January 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 on your plenum, behind the throttle body, a big thing with a plug on top of it, almost like a triangle shape. take it off (3 allen screws), clean it out good with brake cleaner, and put it back together. easy. ALright, I'm going outside right now in the minus 15 weather and doing that, I already swapped around some coil packs and have it running better. COil pack 1 and 4 had corrosion on the #1 cylinder. I'll go out and clean the egr and post back here in a few. Thanks Matt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chadz34 Posted January 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 UPDATE.......I removed the EGR valve and started her up, ran like a 350 and shook like a whore, but it started EVERY time I barely had to turn the key, and I took it for a rip and it accelerated easier and felt smoother under acceleration but idel is a different story. A new EGR valve for my car is 256$.....I was wondering where I can get a delete plate for it...? I would drive it like that if I could but I can't because I am high right now off the smell of gas hahaha. So, I'm gonna go find a delete plate I am NOT paying that for a new EGR. It made my exhuast smell like it should when it was off....now that I put it back on the exhaust smells liek rotten eggs.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 did you clean it out? its not hard at all to clean, so its worth a try before $256 in a new one or spending whatever $$ for a delete plate. besides, unless you get your computer redone it will always show an SES light (someone correct me if i'm wrong) or, head out to a JY, should be able to get one for 15$ or so I would imagine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chadz34 Posted January 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 did you clean it out? its not hard at all to clean, so its worth a try before $256 in a new one or spending whatever $$ for a delete plate. besides, unless you get your computer redone it will always show an SES light (someone correct me if i'm wrong) or, head out to a JY, should be able to get one for 15$ or so I would imagine Actually, I drove the car with no EGR valve on and I had no SES light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted January 17, 2007 Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 hmmm. interesting. I wonder if it will come on, then, because i thought it did Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chadz34 Posted January 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 hmmm. interesting. I wonder if it will come on, then, because i thought it did WIll it hurt the car to drive it like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted January 17, 2007 Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 I dont think it hurts anything engine related, just emissions. If it were me, I would try cleaning it out first and slapping it back on, but that's just because it would be the easiest and cheapest. otherwise Id find a JY one, and then my last option would be to disable it. That's just me, though, although I've heard of people bypassing it, but I thought I'd heard they had to have the computer told not to show the ses light Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNBZ34 Posted January 17, 2007 Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 I'm in the middle of fighting the same problem. Here's what I've come up with. I had uneven idle, stalling etc. Replaced IAC and cleaned. I also replaced the TPS. This helped. Then, after frustration, I decided to check codes and discovered that my MIL bulb was burndt out. After replacing that and getting codes, I had a 32. I replaced the EGR valve, cleared codes and car ran great for a week, then code reset and stalling/irratic idle returned and it took a week of commuting 150 miles a day for it to return. More research, found TSB on phantom stalling. Fix....updated injectors. I verified this with my old boss and techs at GM dealership. So...here's where I am at present. I've also had a fuel injector service done with minimal improvement. First, I have plenum removed as there was NO WAY I was going to get the egr passage cleared out with it on the car. I soaked as best I could for a week then started working a piece of steel wire in and out of the passage from both sides and I finally got it cleared out last night. 2 cans BrakeKleen and 2 cans of carb cleaner and it's wide open now. You'll need patients, some steel wire and long needle nose pliers. Second, I purchased a set of ACCEL injectors from Summit-$227 shipped for a set of 6.. They are 21Lb (stock) flow rate. I have them installed and will be re-installing the plenum tonight. I recommend that you DO NOT eliminate the EGR valve. It serves a dual purpose. First, by recirculating exhaust gas back into the combustion chamber, it reduces NOX emmission (worst of them all) by cooling internal cumbustion temps, but it also allows the engine to run more advance hence, better performance and ecomony. By eliminating that, your knock sensor will detect valve ping and the ECM will retard the the advance curve until it is no longer detected. It could result in poor performance. I have witnessed this first hand on My Ranger pick up and on my 88 Trans Am GTA. My advice to you is to repair it correctly or you will forever be chasing it. I save the rad mods for my 70 Ranchero....Old School. I enjoy the drivability of my Z in it's mostly stock configuration. This is just my .02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chadz34 Posted January 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 It runs better with it off.....just not at idle. It sounds cammed with it off. Kinda cool, but I bet I'd get like 3 mpg. I am still stuck with the whole rev up and almost stall when I put it in park wtf is that? My 92' Lumina Z34 starts and idles smoother than my 96' Lumina DOHC....why is that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNBZ34 Posted January 17, 2007 Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 Possible intake leak? Vacuum leaks as described earlier in post? I still strongly recommend you fix it right, especially on an OBD2 car which I believe 97 is. Mine is a 92 as well. Again, just my .02 take it for what it's worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chadz34 Posted January 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 Possible intake leak? Vacuum leaks as described earlier in post? I still strongly recommend you fix it right, especially on an OBD2 car which I believe 97 is. Mine is a 92 as well. Again, just my .02 take it for what it's worth. I just at 2500 worth of head and intake gaskte work doen. There is NO way it is intake leaks. If anything vaccum. But, the dealership tested for vaccum leaks and couldn't find any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 17, 2007 Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 I recommend that you DO NOT eliminate the EGR valve. It serves a dual purpose. First, by recirculating exhaust gas back into the combustion chamber, it reduces NOX emmission (worst of them all) by cooling internal cumbustion temps, but it also allows the engine to run more advance hence, better performance and ecomony. By eliminating that, your knock sensor will detect valve ping and the ECM will retard the the advance curve until it is no longer detected. It could result in poor performance. GP1128 you reading this? time to fix your EGR! Talk to Brian! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chadz34 Posted January 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 I cleaned the EGR and put it back on, alot smoother, I still have my high idle and high rev and almost stall when put in park. Anyone have any ideas about that one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdaye Posted January 18, 2007 Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 Have you tried a new IAC?? seems to me that is what controls the idle... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chadz34 Posted January 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 Have you tried a new IAC?? seems to me that is what controls the idle... I have cleaned it, but it could very well be done.....Would an IAC throw a SES code? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdman Posted January 20, 2007 Report Share Posted January 20, 2007 no and there really only like 35-40 bucks, i replaced mine just to do it along with the tps and map sensor. you can do all that for around 100 bucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted January 21, 2007 Report Share Posted January 21, 2007 a IAC will not throw a code unless it is so messed up that it makes the car consistently idle higher for X time, at least on OBD1 cars, since yours is OBD2 it is probably falling just under the radar of what the computer sets the code for. Cleaning it helps sometimes, but other times not. I know in the states a IAC is pretty cheep, and since parts in Canada seem to cost $texas have you ever considered paying a US member to buy them here and ship them to you? from what you were saying about your EGR, have you cleaned it and its passages out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.