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plywood or particle board


joey b

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MDF x3.

 

If you wanted, you could get 1/2" MDF then fibergalss it. Not only would it be lighter than the 3/4" MDF, but you could make it look better, and as some of us know, MDF can damage fairly easily and fiberglass is easier to clean.

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Everyone keeps saying MDF, I have one question, could High Density Fiber board be used if weight wasn't an issue? if so what advantage might it have or not have? Just wondering cause I noticed that its only $4 a sheet more than regular MDF...

 

Can't MDF board be sanded smooth enough to be painted? Can't remember where I heard that...

 

Jamie

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I painted speaker boxes I made in shop class (out of MDF). I used a matte black paint which looks "okay", but I wonder if you could primer/paint/clear them and then wetsand and polish them to a high gloss shine.. hmm..

 

I don't know anything about high density fiberboard, maybe MDF is the choice cause it's so friggen easy to work with? And it's strong as HELL when glued together... I made a small box and my 250lb friend was able to stand on it without it breaking.

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Everyone keeps saying MDF, I have one question, could High Density Fiber board be used if weight wasn't an issue? if so what advantage might it have or not have? Just wondering cause I noticed that its only $4 a sheet more than regular MDF...

 

Can't MDF board be sanded smooth enough to be painted? Can't remember where I heard that...

 

Jamie

 

If you feel the need to use HDF, go for it. But why though? Most anyone doing competetions use's MDF. It's more than plenty strong.

 

Yeah, MDF is pretty smooth to start off with, but I would rough it up a tiny bit with some fine grit paper so the primer will stick better.

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Everyone keeps saying MDF, I have one question, could High Density Fiber board be used if weight wasn't an issue? if so what advantage might it have or not have? Just wondering cause I noticed that its only $4 a sheet more than regular MDF...

 

Can't MDF board be sanded smooth enough to be painted? Can't remember where I heard that...

 

Jamie

 

If you feel the need to use HDF, go for it. But why though? Most anyone doing competetions use's MDF. It's more than plenty strong.

 

Yeah, MDF is pretty smooth to start off with, but I would rough it up a tiny bit with some fine grit paper so the primer will stick better.

 

I was just curious, didn't know if there would be any added advantage... I guess it would only make sense if you were using HUGE components and huge power...

 

Jamie

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The reason MDF is used, is because its natural resonance (sp?) is lower than any sub can play. And thus prevents the actual material from rattling apart.

 

And you do know that they make a lightweight MDF board if your really that concerned about weight as an issue. MDF can be painted, carpeted, whatever you wanna do, it can be done with MDF.

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And you do know that they make a lightweight MDF board if your really that concerned about weight as an issue. MDF can be painted, carpeted, whatever you wanna do, it can be done with MDF.

 

:lol: you sound like a commercail!

 

I didn't know that about the resonance (I can't spell it either)

 

I also didn't know it came in a light weight version either... good to know!

 

Jamie

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I heard of people (mostly spl guys) talk about the resonant freq being lowest on MDF.

 

not buying into its benefits. those are the same guys that swear that boxes should only be made with brad nailers and screws are for newbs.

 

never seen HDF in real life. actually HDF is 1/4 " "lightweight" MDF with a few layers of glass inside. no nails, no clamps, no screws, just liquid nails.

 

just remember flat surfaces need more layers and concave and convex structures are more rigid. like an egg shell. squeeze it with even pressure and it wont break.

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LMAO!!! Nails better than screws?? WTF are they smokin? I'm sorry but I've been studying building materials for years, and nothing is going to hold a box together better than screws, especailly not brad nails...

 

HDF is HEAVEY, all our shelving units at work are made of it, they weigh a freekin ton, but they take a lot of abuse too...

 

Jamie

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Anyone who nails a box together is a moron. When building a box, use a shitload of wood glue and a bunch of screws. If your working with 3/4" MDF use 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" screws.

 

I heard of people (mostly spl guys) talk about the resonant freq being lowest on MDF.

 

not buying into its benefits. those are the same guys that swear that boxes should only be made with brad nailers and screws are for newbs.

 

Ummm you better get your story straight. SPL guys build boxes that you cant break if you tried. I dont know where you head that from. Every forum, every shop, every person into SPL or not doesnt use nails. Ive never even hear of anyone using nails.

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Is it possible to get good SQ out of fiberglass? All the boxes I've heard looked awesome but sounded like shit.

 

lol, I heard this Mustang and another guy's WRX both with like 6 12" subs on a fiberglass fascia all bubbled in and it was all for looks. c'mon how you gonna fit six 12 inch subs in like 2 cubic feet.

 

Its funny, right after I thought I was the shit with my new pods and the only guy in town with the technology to even fathom something that cool. went trying to strut my stuff at a few shops in town. an older more established shop was like dude, you make those?!?! how long did it take???? and the other shop where I got my Boston amp they sell Jackhammers and XXX soundstreams, they actually had done that same foil technique to make pods for a car. saw it on the screensaver for their computer screen there. He seen em and I asked if the airspace was too small, he said they will be fine and gave me a few tips like to add a layer here and there and whatnot. thats the guy who had 2 XXX 15's in his car and switching up from Boston to McIntosh. wants to sell me his 2200 watt boston amp and one of the XXX subs for my other car.

 

I invented a way to get awesome sound out of a sealed enclosure with nothing more than a cardboard box, okie foam,liquid nails and fiberglass. Is there a competition to enter the lightest sub box????

 

Anyone who nails a box together is a moron. When building a box, use a shitload of wood glue and a bunch of screws. If your working with 3/4" MDF use 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" screws.

 

I heard of people (mostly spl guys) talk about the resonant freq being lowest on MDF.

 

not buying into its benefits. those are the same guys that swear that boxes should only be made with brad nailers and screws are for newbs.

 

Ummm you better get your story straight. SPL guys build boxes that you cant break if you tried. I dont know where you head that from. Every forum, every shop, every person into SPL or not doesnt use nails. Ive never even hear of anyone using nails.

I gotta stop picking on the spl guys, they deserve credit for demanding higher power car audio stuff and raising the bar. as well as making it more popular in a positive way.

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:drool: Those XXX's are hella nice!

 

Garret, I'm actually gonna try your foam method to make my form for a sub enclosure(gonna inject the foam, let it harden, then pull it out and glass around it to make the enclosure).

 

Which McIntosh are you speaking of?

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That whole foam thing kinda confuses me... is that just for component speakers or subs too? and if so does the foam take up the space that would normally be air space...

 

Jamie

 

We(me and garret powered) are talking about expanding foam. Using it to create a mold, then using that for the fiberglass enclosure. Thats atleast how I take it, and how I plan on doing the next enclosure I make.

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slick, that would be hell cool. sounds like my current "space pod" project for where my 6x9s were, only for a sub. 5 1/4" components are going back there. but the whole back shelf needed to be foiled including the plastic 6x9 mounts. that way the foam could be injected into the cavities under the carpet. then the foam pops out, gets trimmed, re-foiled, glassed. next I gotta pop the shell off, chip out the foam, liquid nail the mdf ring into place and shell over the top. pods will then be hidden by the factory 6x9 grill. thieves will never know.

 

... got the project half way completed and have been taking pics along the way.

 

:drool: Those XXX's are hella nice!

 

Garret, I'm actually gonna try your foam method to make my form for a sub enclosure(gonna inject the foam, let it harden, then pull it out and glass around it to make the enclosure).

 

Which McIntosh are you speaking of?

They got all the McIntosh amps up on the walls mounted in there. beautiful shiny black cases on them :eek: , never saw his setup yet.

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slick, that would be hell cool. sounds like my current "space pod" project for where my 6x9s were, only for a sub. 5 1/4" components are going back there. but the whole back shelf needed to be foiled including the plastic 6x9 mounts. that way the foam could be injected into the cavities under the carpet. then the foam pops out, gets trimmed, re-foiled, glassed. next I gotta pop the shell off, chip out the foam, liquid nail the mdf ring into place and shell over the top. pods will then be hidden by the factory 6x9 grill. thieves will never know.

 

That is exactly how I imagined doing it. BTW, I am doing this for a fellow installer(at work) in his girl's 99 Cherokee. We cut out the back panel, and we are mounting a shallow mounted 12" woofer. I'm hoping to get about 1-1.5 ft^3 of airspace out of it. Guess I will need a few cans of expanding foam, and lots of foil!

 

:drool: Those XXX's are hella nice!

 

Garret, I'm actually gonna try your foam method to make my form for a sub enclosure(gonna inject the foam, let it harden, then pull it out and glass around it to make the enclosure).

 

Which McIntosh are you speaking of?

They got all the McIntosh amps up on the walls mounted in there. beautiful shiny black cases on them :eek: , never saw his setup yet.

 

That has to be a sight to see!!!!

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ohhhhhhhh I get it now... I thought you wre actually mounting the speakers in the foam, lol.

 

-So your filling the voids with foam

-Then carving it the way you like it

-Applying some sort of bond breaker (in this case foil)

-Glassing over top of it

-Then the hardened glass peice pops off

-You take out the foam and your left with your glass shell?

 

now that I actually get it... THATS A GOOD IDEA!!! <- I should get an award for being the slowest guy on here :smilielol:

 

Jamie

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ohhhhhhhh I get it now... I thought you wre actually mounting the speakers in the foam, lol.

 

-So your filling the voids with foam

-Then carving it the way you like it

-Applying some sort of bond breaker (in this case foil)

-Glassing over top of it

-Then the hardened glass peice pops off

-You take out the foam and your left with your glass shell?

 

now that I actually get it... THATS A GOOD IDEA!!!

 

You got it!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I like to frame it out with 2 x 4 s, skin the front with 1/2 " plywood and use paneling for the rest then cover it all with trunk splater paint. Make sure to use screws to assemble it as well as wood glue.

 

some of you are wondering "why paneling?". Paneling flexes when the bass hits making a harder hit. This works sealed or ported. I built one to fit the entire trunk of a 78 dodge magnumn. I put a cheap set of 8s in it and got as much bass as a set of 15s....

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I like to frame it out with 2 x 4 s, skin the front with 1/2 " plywood and use paneling for the rest then cover it all with trunk splater paint. Make sure to use screws to assemble it as well as wood glue.

 

some of you are wondering "why paneling?". Paneling flexes when the bass hits making a harder hit. This works sealed or ported. I built one to fit the entire trunk of a 78 dodge magnumn. I put a cheap set of 8s in it and got as much bass as a set of 15s....

 

How is it for sound quality though? Personally I'm not aiming to have my bass pound harder than the next guy, I want it to sound good. Using panelling witha 2x4 frame work sounds like it would rattle too much for my liking.

 

Jamie

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