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Signal light wiring. new pics added


warwgn3

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Guys, I know this is the wrong section, but I need a quick answer.... I have to finish this withing 2 hours...

 

I'm ready to connect the side signal bulbs I put into the front-side marker lens housings.

 

I'm going to splice the wires into the front singal wires. But here's the catch.... the side singals have 2 wires for park and flash... while the front signals have 3 wires for park, flash, and ground. They are coloured black, blue, and brown. Which is which???

 

Help is appreciated.

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Guys, I know this is the wrong section, but I need a quick answer.... I have to finish this withing 2 hours...

 

I'm ready to connect the side signal bulbs I put into the front-side marker lens housings.

 

I'm going to splice the wires into the front singal wires. But here's the catch.... the side singals have 2 wires for park and flash... while the front signals have 3 wires for park, flash, and ground. They are coloured black, blue, and brown. Which is which???

 

Help is appreciated.

 

I'm not quite sure what you are trying to do. The front signals are dual element bulbs, meaning three wires (one for flash, one for park, and one for ground). From the diagram, it looks like the Brown wire is the park, the Blue is the flash, and the Black is almost always ground.

 

Also x872634861 for Test With Multimeter!

 

{connect the black multimeter lead to chassis ground, put the multimeter in voltage mode, touch red multimeter lead to bare part of wire in question. A voltage reading means it has electricity. Brown wire should only have voltage when the parking lights are on (or if you have DRL's and the key is on). Blue wire should have voltage when turn signals or hazard flashers are on. Black wire should not have voltage because it is ground.}

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

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You can also check for a ground with the black one in continuity mode. Basicaly, put one lead on the black, the other lead on the chassis, and put it in the "Ohm" selection. If your multimeter allows for it, then press what looks like a little speaker on your multimeter. If it beeps, then you know it is a continuous ground. Be sure to turn on the turn signal to make sure that is still beeps when it is on. If it doesn't, then you know that it is for something else.

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Ok guys I got it to work. Thanks for all the help. What we did to get it to work is we soldered a ground wire to the sockets that I used for the corner signals, and used 3-way tap connectors to splice them into the wires from the front signals that are inside the grill.

 

I have pics and a video of the finished product, but everyone's gone to bed, so I can't upload them yet. So I'll have them up in the morning.

 

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Interesting to say the least.

 

BTW, ever use any of the bulbs or sockets I sent ya?

 

Yeah, I used 2 bulbs. But I couldn't use the sockets, they wouldn't fit on my ratchet....lol. Nah, they were too big to fit behind the lens housings.

 

 

oh, and for the mods... feel free to move this thread to the proper section if you wish....

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Guys, I know this is the wrong section, but I need a quick answer.... I have to finish this withing 2 hours...

 

Your time frame doesn't give you permission to intentionally mispost something. Show some courtesy and respect for the rules, like most people try to do

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Guys, I know this is the wrong section, but I need a quick answer.... I have to finish this withing 2 hours...

 

Your time frame doesn't give you permission to intentionally mispost something. Show some courtesy and respect for the rules, like most people try to do

 

Granted, I'll admit that. But I don't see a section for electrical and wiring.

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Your time frame doesn't give you

 

Granted, I'll admit that. But I don't see a section for electrical and wiring.

 

based on your post you wouldn't have posted it there anyway....and FWIW: in most situations, the people that normally can help you the most with tech/mechancial issues normally would find it just as quickly, most of the times more so if you post in the proper section.....anyway, back to the topic in which Slick fixed your problem :)

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