twalt13 Posted May 30, 2003 Report Posted May 30, 2003 This may be a repost so excuse me if it is. Had reciently purchased the PN 12498649, Performance rear trailing arm kit from GM Parts Direct, for my 1997 GTP. Received them today and just for fun I thought I would see if it fit on my 1990 STE......It is an exact fit. Will be purchasing anouther set for $31.50 from GM Parts Direct for my 1990 TGP in hopes to tighten up that rear end some. Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted May 30, 2003 Report Posted May 30, 2003 How are they different? Maybe you can find out if the knuckles are interchangeable. Quote
Guest Anonymous Posted May 30, 2003 Report Posted May 30, 2003 What exactly does the kit consist of? Quote
twalt13 Posted May 31, 2003 Author Report Posted May 31, 2003 If you go to GM Parts Direct and type in the PN a full description is given, also if you go to ClubGP.com and do a search for trailing arms you will see peoples opinions of them. I think it is worth the $35.50 Quote
The Burning Rom Posted May 31, 2003 Report Posted May 31, 2003 I like the BMR kit better. I guess I'll have to get a kit for my TGP now Check out BMR's products here: http://www.bmrfabrication.com/W-Body.htm Quote
Reapper Posted May 31, 2003 Report Posted May 31, 2003 Hey does the stuff at http://www.bmrfabrication.com/W-Body.htm work for the 95 cutlass? They say 97-02. Does anyone know what the differences are between the years? If there is no differnece then I think I found my suspension parts. Thanx for the help. Laterz, William Grimmer Quote
GPRACER Posted May 31, 2003 Report Posted May 31, 2003 I don't think the strut tower braces or the sway bars will work, but those trailing arms look identical. The Factory FE3 front sway bar is 34mm and a good upgrade over the 30mm FE1 bar anyway's. Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted May 31, 2003 Report Posted May 31, 2003 Trailing arms from BMR $109.95. Trailing arms from GM Parts Direct $32. I think I'll go with GMPD!!! Actually I'm gonna order them from Jason Cromer and avoid GMPD's ridiculous shipping rates. Quote
The Burning Rom Posted May 31, 2003 Report Posted May 31, 2003 Hey does the stuff at http://www.bmrfabrication.com/W-Body.htm work for the 95 cutlass? They say 97-02. Does anyone know what the differences are between the years? If there is no differnece then I think I found my suspension parts. Thanx for the help. Laterz, William Grimmer The trailing arms will work, but the lateral arms won't, as the pre-97 W-body cars have mono-leaf suspensions instead of independent. Is the FE3 sway bar hollow? My TGP has one, but I haven't gotten around to messing with the front suspension yet. The BMR sway bars aren't hollow, and are undoubtably much stronger. I'll have to compare my GT's swaybar to my TGPs sway bar and see if the shape is the same. Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted May 31, 2003 Report Posted May 31, 2003 The trailing arms will work, but the lateral arms won't, as the pre-97 W-body cars have mono-leaf suspensions instead of independent. If the lateral arms don't work, it would be due to length or bolt hole differences. Pre-97's still have fully independent rear suspension despite the monoleaf. Quote
patgizz Posted May 31, 2003 Report Posted May 31, 2003 so what exactly is the difference between that and my stock ones? are those a tube design instead of a stamped U or someting? Quote
91GranSport Posted May 31, 2003 Report Posted May 31, 2003 Isn't the rear mono-leafspring still considered "indepedent" rear suspension? The trailing arms will work, but the lateral arms won't, as the pre-97 W-body cars have mono-leaf suspensions instead of independent. Quote
91GranSport Posted May 31, 2003 Report Posted May 31, 2003 Yeah, I'm curious about that too. How would trailing arms improve the handling performance? I can see them being made out of a different material to lighten your rear end, but that's about it. As far as being able to have multiple adjustments, you'd probably need an alignment job after, and I don't think you can simply alter the geometry of the rear trailing arms and leave everything else alone. so what exactly is the difference between that and my stock ones? are those a tube design instead of a stamped U or someting? Quote
Redfox340 Posted May 31, 2003 Report Posted May 31, 2003 Isn't the rear mono-leafspring still considered "indepedent" rear suspension? Yes... there is no solid axle across the rear end. Both wheels can travel independantly and seperately. - RedFox340 Quote
Brian P Posted May 31, 2003 Report Posted May 31, 2003 Is the FE3 sway bar hollow? My TGP has one, but I haven't gotten around to messing with the front suspension yet. The BMR sway bars aren't hollow, and are undoubtably much stronger. I'll have to compare my GT's swaybar to my TGPs sway bar and see if the shape is the same. The 34mm bar is hollow, the 30ish-mm bar is solid, but strength and bending resistance are 2 different things. Quote
Reapper Posted May 31, 2003 Report Posted May 31, 2003 Ok so my question was answered. Then the answer was questioned. What do you think would need to be done to make the Tower bars work? bend them so they clear engine parts? I like the way they mount to the tower. why wouldn't the rear work? I'm planing on changing most of the suspension out. What would the best things to look for? Thanx Laterz, William Grimmer Quote
Guest Anonymous Posted May 31, 2003 Report Posted May 31, 2003 Trailing arms from BMR $109.95.Trailing arms from GM Parts Direct $32. That's a big difference. :shock: Quote
Sailor77 Posted June 1, 2003 Report Posted June 1, 2003 ok, well here is my question.... has anyone ever tried to swap a pre 97 monoleaf with a 97+ suspension. For example, I have a 95 cutlass and a 98 GTP I could swap. Quote
GPRACER Posted June 1, 2003 Report Posted June 1, 2003 Is the FE3 sway bar hollow? My TGP has one, but I haven't gotten around to messing with the front suspension yet. The BMR sway bars aren't hollow, and are undoubtably much stronger. I'll have to compare my GT's swaybar to my TGPs sway bar and see if the shape is the same. The 34mm bar is hollow, the 30ish-mm bar is solid, but strength and bending resistance are 2 different things. the 30 mm FE1 bar that I removed from my car was also hollow. I did notice a big difference in handling though, as for strength, a broken bar is pretty rare, I've only seen a couple in the 10 or so years I've been a technician. Quote
Robby1870 Posted June 1, 2003 Report Posted June 1, 2003 Ok so my question was answered. Then the answer was questioned. What do you think would need to be done to make the Tower bars work? bend them so they clear engine parts? I like the way they mount to the tower. why wouldn't the rear work? I'm planing on changing most of the suspension out. What would the best things to look for? Thanx Laterz, William Grimmer You can order the front STB from GM parts Direct, search for a 97+ Impala, I think that will make it show up. It will work on Gen I Ws, I have one on mine. Robby Quote
Brian P Posted June 1, 2003 Report Posted June 1, 2003 Is the FE3 sway bar hollow? My TGP has one, but I haven't gotten around to messing with the front suspension yet. The BMR sway bars aren't hollow, and are undoubtably much stronger. I'll have to compare my GT's swaybar to my TGPs sway bar and see if the shape is the same. The 34mm bar is hollow, the 30ish-mm bar is solid, but strength and bending resistance are 2 different things. the 30 mm FE1 bar that I removed from my car was also hollow. I did notice a big difference in handling though, as for strength, a broken bar is pretty rare, I've only seen a couple in the 10 or so years I've been a technician. I thought the FE1 bar is 28mm hollow, in fact Im near positive. I remember taking mine out and I can see how the FE3 bar flared to 30mm while the FE1 bar was not flared anywhere (they flared around the area where it mounts to the control arm). I noticed a huge difference in handling too, that FE1 bar is a joke! Also I saw a solid 30mm bar cut at a junkyard, man that thing is meaty Quote
GPRACER Posted June 1, 2003 Report Posted June 1, 2003 My car has rpo FE1 suspension and I measured the bar with a micrometer and it was 30mm. I think the 28mm bar was FE1 prior to 1994, I also think that the FE2 rpo was discontinued after the 1993 model year. so the FE1 28mm bar was discontinued and the 30 mm FE2 bar was used in place of the 28 mm and called FE1. FE3 was always 34mm. Confusing?? hope not. Quote
Brian P Posted June 1, 2003 Report Posted June 1, 2003 Ah crap....I didnt know you had 94+ thats a different ballpark...my moms '95 has FE7 which isn't half bad, just the stock struts suck. Quote
Brian P Posted June 1, 2003 Report Posted June 1, 2003 Oh also the early FE3's werent all 34mm...up until '93 the only cars to get the 34mm were any trim level GP with the B4U package, and all cars with the 3.4 Twin cam. The bar I currently have is from a '89 Cutlass FE3, 30mm measured with a manual micrometer Quote
GPRACER Posted June 1, 2003 Report Posted June 1, 2003 I ordered my bar through work, less than 200 canadian for the bar and new bushings, I just ordered a bar for a 1995 GP with FE3 and I got the 34mm bar. GM changes so much stuff every model year that it's almost impossible to keep up with it. Quote
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