Remove heads with engine in the car?

[91GPSTE]

Quick question guys, 3.1 liter, can the heads be removed from the engine while it is still in the car or do I have to pull the motor? I thought there is enough room if I roll the engine forward but now I am not so sure. Is there enough access for an impact wrench to get to the bolts?

[White93z34]

plenty of room, should have zero problem doing that.

[GutlessSupreme]

you'll be fine. have fun with the A/C mount bracket.

[91GPSTE]

you'll be fine. have fun with the A/C mount bracket.

 

You mean the compressor or what bracket? I put a new motor in there ones already so I don't think I will have problem taking any parts off.

[Andrew]

you'll be fine. have fun with the A/C mount bracket.

 

You mean the compressor or what bracket? I put a new motor in there ones already so I don't think I will have problem taking any parts off.

I think he meant that its difficult to get to.

[Robby1870]

you'll be fine. have fun with the A/C mount bracket.

 

You mean the compressor or what bracket? I put a new motor in there ones already so I don't think I will have problem taking any parts off.

I think he meant that its difficult to get to.

 

Yeah, it is. And, if it hasn't even been taken off before, the bolts will probably be a bitch. However, he said he's already taken it apart before.

[GOT2B GM]

You wont have to rotate the engine to pull the heads. Just unbolt the downpipe from the rear exhaust manifold and pull the rear head and manifold off as one piece.

 

I don't think you'll have enough room for an impact, just use a breaker bar and some muscle.

[GP1138]

Done it on my 3100 before, and with the exhaust manifolds still connected to the downpipe. It's kind of a bitch, but possible.

[91GPSTE]

I was taking it apart this morning. I don't think I will be able to get to the down pipe off the motor, especially in the back because the lower bolt is impossible to get to. I did manage to brake the coolant line that goes into the intake below the oil filler cap. I think I got one of those laying around somewhere. though.

[91GPSTE]

Got almost everything off. Losened all the head bolts. Gotta jack up the car tomorrow morning to get to the downpipe.

 

Oh yea, got another question. How imperative is it to install new head bolts? I know that they are stretchable and the parts store guys say that I absolutely must buy them. In reality, is it really necessary or can I reuse the old bolts?

[GOT2B GM]

If your gonna reuse the head bolts, make sure they go back in their original locations.

[jdcutty]

I have always replaced the head bolts. Everytime i have pulled the heads. They aren't really that expensive so I would just replace them to avoid the hassle.

[91GPSTE]

I have always replaced the head bolts. Everytime i have pulled the heads. They aren't really that expensive so I would just replace them to avoid the hassle.

 

They are at least 40 bucks which is expensive in my book for just the bolts. I will probably buy them though but never the less.

[Canada]

They are torque to yeild bolts.....so you have to replace them.

 

You shouldn't impact head bolts......as they are torque to yeild....they might break.

[Euro]

you dont necessarily need new headbolts. just like someone said make sure they go back into the holes they came out of. And, it might be a good idea, if you have a bench grinder or something, to grind off the threads a little of any crap that was on there before

[91GPSTE]

And, it might be a good idea, if you have a bench grinder or something, to grind off the threads a little of any crap that was on there before

 

They invented something called tap and die set since then so I prefer to use that instead.

[Euro]

alright.....we did that on my buddy's 3.1 rebuild. and it worked fine. just throwing suggestions out there

[91GPSTE]

I know, I was just pulling your leg.

 

I got all new gaskets yesterday and managed to get the intake cleaned up and reassembled. Now, how the hell do you get the valve springs off? I compressed them enough to be able to remove the locks but they seem to be no go. I tried to push down on the spring but it goes down with the piston and holding the piston doesn't help because when I can apply the force of my body to it and it doesn't go down. Are these some special locks that require a magic tool to remove or are the just being stubborn?

 

Edit: Never mind, figured the valve springs. Just needed a good whack with a hammer.

[5speedz34]

you dont necessarily need new headbolts. just like someone said make sure they go back into the holes they came out of. And, it might be a good idea, if you have a bench grinder or something, to grind off the threads a little of any crap that was on there before

 

Did you not read this?

They are torque to yeild bolts.....so you have to replace them.

 

You shouldn't impact head bolts......as they are torque to yeild....they might break.

[Euro]

no i didnt..... the bolts are fine

[91GPSTE]

I just finished putting the heads back on the car, gonna work on the intake next. One thing that I don't understand is they say to torque the bolts to 33 ft-lbs and then 1/4 turn. After that is complete, they tell you to recheck them. How are you suppose to recheck them if you don't know what the final torque reading is? Has anyone ever actually measured what the final torque on these bolts was? I checked it with my needle torque wrench and the bolts are at about 50 ft-lbs. Does that sound about right?

[5speedz34]

I just finished putting the heads back on the car, gonna work on the intake next. One thing that I don't understand is they say to torque the bolts to 33 ft-lbs and then 1/4 turn. After that is complete, they tell you to recheck them. How are you suppose to recheck them if you don't know what the final torque reading is? Has anyone ever actually measured what the final torque on these bolts was? I checked it with my needle torque wrench and the bolts are at about 50 ft-lbs. Does that sound about right?

 

First thing is a needle torque wrench the ones with the needle and it tells you how much torque you're putting on by the needle? Like a gauge? If so those suck, I would go out and get one that clicks.

 

As for the torque spec AllData says you need to torque to 33 ft-lb and then 90* with tool J36660. It doesn't say anything about rechecking them. If it was me I wouldn't bother trying to recheck them. But, I don't know what the special tool is.

[91GPSTE]

I have both the clicking type and the needle type. The bad thing about the clicking type is it doesn't show you exactly how much torque you applied. The needle wrench isn't so bad actually. I compared it to the clicking one and it shows the exact same value.

 

I finished working on the car last night, can't wait to start driving it again.

[5speedz34]

I have both the clicking type and the needle type. The bad thing about the clicking type is it doesn't show you exactly how much torque you applied. The needle wrench isn't so bad actually. I compared it to the clicking one and it shows the exact same value.

 

I finished working on the car last night, can't wait to start driving it again.

 

Well, so long as your store the clicking one at the lowest possible setting I trust it personally.

[93CutlassSupreme]

did you buy and use the torque angle meter?

 

on my Sunfire, I just used some touch-up paint to make marks 90* apart.

 

 

not exact, but I've had no problems.