88Regal Limited Posted November 15, 2006 Report Posted November 15, 2006 Well, My car has been sitting for like 6 months. Just started fixing it again. Get a new battery in it, fire it up. Ran really rough, stalled. WTF? After about 15sec of cranking it fires. OK, running better. Rev it again, throttle sticks. I'm like WTFBBQ!?!?!?! and shut it off quick. I get out my wd-40 and spray the shit out of it, no more sticking. (ya right, what I think) So, running like it's on 4-5 cylenders. I take it up and down my road a bit. 3rd time I decide to floor it. Here's a thumbnail (AND PIC, JUST CLICK) of my road, not long at all. I managed a blistering 27.5mph! WOOHOO! And then the throttle decides to stick, at WOT, going up the road with traffic going 65mph past.... So W-brakes arnt worth shit, I shove it into N and bounce it off the limiter a bit before I shut off the engine. I coast it back down, WD-40 it, start it and it runs like a top, no missing or anything. So I'm pissed of, and just parked it without further investigation. Q1- Feels like the internal butterfly is sticking, could that happen and how do you fix that? Q2- Huge, random appearing misfire. Car has no power to begin with, there with the miss, like I said, WOT and 27mph. not good, especially pulling out onto the highway. I'll do plugs and wires next week, anything else it could be? I'm thinking that and coilpacks. Any Idia how expencive those are? I dont want this happening again. With the misfire, I could be rearended. Almost happened around 6 times... and with the sticking throttle, my wife would panic, and kill herself. This car is a death trap. Will celebrate this fact in about 5min with my new sig. I'm out. Quote
Mach 5 Posted November 15, 2006 Report Posted November 15, 2006 Nice signature by the way. Id say, check the plugs, and use a timing light for the packs and wires. Check air filter. Check fluids. Using a fuel pressure gauge, check pressure on fuel rail. Do this at key on, initial start, 1000, 2000, 3000 rpm. Check egr and all vacuum lines. Pressure should be at 40-47 psi. It should hold with car off. If not, you've found the first problem (fuel injectors). See how this goes. Quote
1990lumina Posted November 15, 2006 Report Posted November 15, 2006 Try some throttle body cleaner...or take the whole thing off and clean it on a shop bench or replace it if it continues to stick.. I'd say one of your coils is bad too seeing as how it was running on 4 cylinders like you described...a junkyard will have them for cheap....and it's acheap way to get yourself going again if you don't know which coipack is bad/the ICM under the coils could be going out too. I bought the whole thing (ICM+3coils) for cheap at the junk yard...keep it in mind. and I like ur sig..though my car should have that title! Quote
Mach 5 Posted November 15, 2006 Report Posted November 15, 2006 I think the coils at summit racing are like $30 for a new one. Like $90 for all 6 cyl. Don't forget the lithium grease on the TB. Quote
88Regal Limited Posted November 15, 2006 Author Report Posted November 15, 2006 Do this at key on, initial start, 1000, 2000, 3000 rpm. Base modle, no tach..... ry some throttle body cleaner.. will do, and I have some Q-tips I'll use too. thx Cheap junkyard coils? ME and white93z34 might take a run out iff he has time. And dont even say the ICM is bad.... Quote
Mach 5 Posted November 15, 2006 Report Posted November 15, 2006 If you really want, you can clean the IAC Valve with tooth brush. As far as fuel pressure, Just hold at an rpm and gradually increase. Who needs a tach anyways. Quote
88Regal Limited Posted November 15, 2006 Author Report Posted November 15, 2006 "ou can clean the IAC Valve with tooth brush." noob to 60*v6's, wheres that at? Pic would help. Quote
slick Posted November 15, 2006 Report Posted November 15, 2006 Since it sounds like the car is just sitting anyways, I'd pull the TB clear outta the engine bay, pull all the sensor's off, and let it sit in some chem dip parts cleaner for a day or two. During that time, clean out the EGR passages of carbon, clean your TB sensors, etc... Once you have it back together, start by checking your spark and fuel, then go from there. Quote
Mach 5 Posted November 16, 2006 Report Posted November 16, 2006 its on the opposite side of the tb across form the throttle linkage. There are two torx screws hoilding it on. Use some electric parts cleaner or brake cleaner and spray the spring and the pintle. Then use some oil and lube up the gaskets before installation. And its clean, you should be able to move the pintle a little bit. Don't push too hard. Quote
88Regal Limited Posted November 16, 2006 Author Report Posted November 16, 2006 W00T! got somthing on a new car right! Anyways, tomarrow I'll check the plugs and clean that out if weather permits. It's beem real shitty out lately. oh, another q- Should I bother changing the tranny fluid? It's dark brown. I heard changing it when it's like thatdoes more harm then good. edit- what's stock plug gap? Quote
Supreme Cutlass Posted November 16, 2006 Report Posted November 16, 2006 ..new car? o.O Yes, just drop the pan and change the filter & such. Just don't do anything stupid like a flush or putting in anything besides the proper fluid and you'll be fine. Quote
88Regal Limited Posted November 16, 2006 Author Report Posted November 16, 2006 ..new car? o.O fall 07 Quote
88Regal Limited Posted November 16, 2006 Author Report Posted November 16, 2006 and don't add any addictives +1 Oh wait, it's my thread! Anyways, since I dont have the manual for this car, whats the spark plug gap supposed to be at, .30? Quote
88Regal Limited Posted November 17, 2006 Author Report Posted November 17, 2006 OK, update. I didnt get to get the plugs out or even check (damn manifolds are HOT!) but I cleaned out the IAC or whatever that thing on the tb is. Really clean, I was impressed. No carbon at all. BUt there was a fatality. Was tightning it, and the left bolt snapped. damnit. But there is enough thread to hold it in nice and tight. Will probably just drill a smaller hole and knock the stuff out. I cleaned the connections, put it all back togeather, and ran some "top shot" air intake system cleaner in it. Damn was the TB dirty inside. With all the dirt out, I fired it up, and put some more in the hole where the hose going from the valve cover to the air tube is. Thing still has an audible miss at low RPMs, but runs and idles much smoother, and I hit 35 up the road!!! Now it dosent bog and stall when you do a burnout in the wet road! Q1 Now, I still have a miss in the engine at low rpms. I dont have a tach, but guessing 1500-2500. After that and it's all clear. Any suggestions? WIll try to get a plug out and look at the condition tomarrow. Q2 How do I get to the plugs? The rear are almost impossible to get to, and the front look just as hard, with the coolant resivior and the motor mount in the way. Suggestions? Coments? out. Quote
Crazy K Posted November 17, 2006 Report Posted November 17, 2006 read FAQ, for the 3.1 and 3100 rotation, but you will have to remove the dog bog bracket from the radiator support and flip it back out of the way to remove the reservoir. personally, i would upgrade to the newer type 91+ 3.1 reservoir. Quote
88Regal Limited Posted November 17, 2006 Author Report Posted November 17, 2006 pic? edit- you mean the huge thing covering the whole left side of the engine bay? eeww, I'll just take this thing off. thx though. Quote
Mach 5 Posted November 17, 2006 Report Posted November 17, 2006 glad to hear its somewhat better. Try to get that screw out w/o drilling. Just loosen the other one and pick up another at your local hardware store. Quote
88Regal Limited Posted November 17, 2006 Author Report Posted November 17, 2006 glad to hear its somewhat better. Try to get that screw out w/o drilling. Just loosen the other one and pick up another at your local hardware store. why no drilling? HAve done that before. another Q- there is a small leak coming from the iac, shoule I take it off and put some liquid gasket on it? There wasnt a gasket when I put it on. And could I just unbolt the coolant resivior and move it to the side? Really didnt check out the lines much. 800th post FTW! Quote
Mach 5 Posted November 17, 2006 Report Posted November 17, 2006 Um, you probably got a vacuum leak around the IAC. Replace the screws and check the gasket, see if it works. I would use gasket sealer as the last option. Why not drill... Because if you don't have to, you shouldn't. Plus you might clog up the vaccuum assembly and get metal bits in your engine. Quote
88Regal Limited Posted November 17, 2006 Author Report Posted November 17, 2006 Um, you probably got a vacuum leak around the IAC. Replace the screws and check the gasket, see if it works. I would use gasket sealer as the last option. Why not drill... Because if you don't have to, you shouldn't. Plus you might clog up the vaccuum assembly and get metal bits in your engine. wait, there was no gasket. NO problems with it leaking though. Heck, I'll just use the liquid gasket. And I'm also replacing the torqs bits, was a PITA to find a but, let alone somthing to turn it with. screwdriver ftw! Quote
cutty Posted November 17, 2006 Report Posted November 17, 2006 so where near pittsburgh do you live, i could maybe come by one day and give you a hand. Quote
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