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rear deck and sound deadening...


19Cutlass94

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For those who have sound deadened their rear deck, did you do just the top ( in the cabin ) the bottom ( trunk ) or both? Right now I only have the top ( cabin ) done. Im thinking since I have a break from school tomorrow that Ill go get more Dynamat and do the bottom, inside the trunk. Maybe this will help with the rear deck noise I get when the bass hits.. and also might help direct the sound to inside the car. But any imput would be great!

 

 

Thanks

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IMO, and from experience working on customers cars, I suggest doing both sides. Granted, if the bass is hard enough, it will still flws, and you will still have rattle, but doing both sides will definately dampen it a lot(mainly by weighing it down soo much that it will be harder to move). If it comes down to the fact you have sound deadened both sides, and there is still rattle, it's time to beef up the rear deck by adding more structural support to it. The main way, that I can think of doing this, is to add crossbraces to it to keep flex to a minimum

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yeah I forgot to tell you that I did get it! Thanks again!

 

 

Ill have to try and deaden the bottom side of it tomorrow. Which means I gotta take the box out :mad: But hopefully everything will work out. I mean Im not sure if its the actual deck thats makins noise, or just everything attached to it. I already found two metal clips ( which are not needed BTW ) and took those out, and that fixed like 80% of the rattles I had. The only thing ( that I know of ) that flexes is the trunk lid. I already have about 3 layers of it on there, so its pointless to add anymore. but Ill try this tomorrow and see how it turns out.

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I have 3 layers of peel and stick on my trunk lid also, and same situation-tuns of flex.

 

I know my rear deck rattles like hell, but when I do that, I'm also going to do the rear seat area, rear strut towers, and behind the rear panels that connect the rear window to the little quarter window.

 

Just remember, you don't have to peel and stick everywhere, just where it's needed. The curved area's are the stronges, and do not flex. It's the flat parts that need the sound deadener.

 

Again, if that doesn't work, I'd look into making some cross-sectional bracing, with rubber o-rings between the braces and the metal, to helf stiffen up the area.

 

 

 

Was the CD what you were looking for?

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I deadened both sides and the rear underside of th rear deck pannel as well. I found out the hard way that soundeadener really likes to stick to the trunk seal...lol. You can imagine the look of my eighbours when I was outside trying to open my trunk with a screw driver...lol

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how much does dynamat weigh? I'm kinda curious.. might look into throwing a sheet in each door or something, to keep road noise out, but I dont' want to add too much weight. and from a different standpoint, I know it's not meant for this but would it help with weather insulation at all? Obviously there's no insulation in our doors stock, and if the heat/A/C is off the outside temp moves in real quick. any different suggestion in materials to cover that?

 

sorry for the hijack...

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how much does dynamat weigh? I'm kinda curious.. might look into throwing a sheet in each door or something, to keep road noise out, but I dont' want to add too much weight. and from a different standpoint, I know it's not meant for this but would it help with weather insulation at all? Obviously there's no insulation in our doors stock, and if the heat/A/C is off the outside temp moves in real quick. any different suggestion in materials to cover that?

 

sorry for the hijack...

 

I used great stuff foam. Its what all the pros use and newbs always use sound deadening sheet too much. the foam is WAY more high performance with its 3 dimensional lightweight insulating capability and the ability to sculpt it with a razor knife. I sandwiched it between the rear carpet pad and the rear deck sheetmetal in my friends car, then we installed the speakers back there and it sounds like a sealed enclosure. I inject all my trunk lids with okie foam now and use it to tack weld fiberglass speaker pods and sub boxes, even trunk mount batteries. you can use it to build and sculpt amp mounts then fiberglass over it. many uses.

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I've always heard horror stories with expanding foam (too much causing panels to warp is the main thing), so I've never attempted it at all. But, I have heard the same thing with it though- awesome sound deadener, and does stop vibrations completely.

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Ill never use that expanding foam....

 

 

I got done sound deadening the bottom half of the rear deck, along with the upper rear bench mounts. It did make a noticeable difference. I think this will be the last Ill need of it there.

 

Just remember, unless you get Dynamat at an extreme discount(like me), you can go much better for cheaper, i.e. fatmat, edead, raammat, etc...

 

x2. This shit is expensive. But it fucking works!

 

 

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Was the CD what you were looking for?

 

It is! Now that I have all the test tones that I needed, and more, Im playing around with the gains, and what sounds good to me. I really gotta look at my EQ's for my comp. set. I think I have them a wee bit too bright.

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how much does dynamat weigh? I'm kinda curious.. might look into throwing a sheet in each door or something, to keep road noise out, but I dont' want to add too much weight. and from a different standpoint, I know it's not meant for this but would it help with weather insulation at all? Obviously there's no insulation in our doors stock, and if the heat/A/C is off the outside temp moves in real quick. any different suggestion in materials to cover that?

 

sorry for the hijack...

 

Once sheet is 4sq.ft. Believe me, that covers ALOT. And yes it does keep the heat in. Working in the trunk for just a couple hours I was sweating my ass off.

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u really think some dynamat is gonna weigh ur car down

 

Its .68lbs/sq.ft. I have 100sq.ft. That equals 68lbs.

 

 

Me and the local shop figured out that I had 96sq.ft. until I started doing more, Then once I finish this kit I bought, Ill have like 112 or 116 :willynilly:

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I know I have near 50 lbs worth of sound deadener already, and I plan on trippling that amount. Remember, every 100 lbs equals about .1 in the 1/4 mile.

 

I doubt 19Cutlass94 is going for speed with his car though, it's to nice to be beat on like that lol

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I know I have near 50 lbs worth of sound deadener already, and I plan on trippling that amount. Remember, every 100 lbs equals about .1 in the 1/4 mile.

 

I doubt 19Cutlass94 is going for speed with his car though, it's to nice to be beat on like that lol

 

Nah, I was referring more to blkinternationals post about it not weighing that much.

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I know I have near 50 lbs worth of sound deadener already, and I plan on trippling that amount. Remember, every 100 lbs equals about .1 in the 1/4 mile.

 

I doubt 19Cutlass94 is going for speed with his car though, it's to nice to be beat on like that lol

 

Nah, I was referring more to blkinternationals post about it not weighing that much.

 

Oh right right, my bad. Well the way I see it if you're putting enough Dynamat into your car to effect your 1/4 mile times, you probably won't be to focused on that .1 + you'd be losing.

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I am working on lightening my stereo so my already heavy ass car isnt weighed down. I just realized the trunk floor is covered with 3/4" MDF for the amps and battery to mount to. so what I am going to do is mold it with fiberglass and then cut out all the wood with a grinder. the car should lose a good 50 lbs. after that I will foam tack the mold back in with all the amps installed and the wires will all hide under the fiberglass shell.

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Im not concered about the weight. Its a small price to pay for having a great sounding system. After all, sound deadening is what MANY people dont put it, so they dont get everything out of it.

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yea like I said I'm not too concerned with how my system sounds.. going big on stereo equipment isn't my thing lol. overall I guess you could just say I want the car to feel more insulated.

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