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What I've been up to for the last 7 months. (LONG, LOTS OF PICS)


BrianG

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Thanks. How do you overbore an engine?

 

You take it to a machine shop and they make each cylinder diameter larger. .030 overbore means the diameter of each cylinder has been increased by .030in. Not that much when you think about. Once the block has been overbored, you have to get pistons and rings that match the new bore size. Usually, pistons are made in overbore sizes because, when doing a basic rebuild on an engine, sometimes it is necessary to overbore the block to get the cylinders straight.

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Thanks. How do you overbore an engine?

 

You take it to a machine shop and they make each cylinder diameter larger. .030 overbore means the diameter of each cylinder has been increased by .030in. Not that much when you think about. Once the block has been overbored, you have to get pistons and rings that match the new bore size. Usually, pistons are made in overbore sizes because, when doing a basic rebuild on an engine, sometimes it is necessary to overbore the block to get the cylinders straight.

 

What do you mean "get the cylinders straight?

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I think he means to eliminate the piston to have any side-to-side movement in the cylinder (due to wear), and to get the tolerances back into spec.

 

Well, I always hear about people taking their engines down and the cross-hatching is still there. Is this usually not true with W's?

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Thanks. How do you overbore an engine?

 

You take it to a machine shop and they make each cylinder diameter larger. .030 overbore means the diameter of each cylinder has been increased by .030in. Not that much when you think about. Once the block has been overbored, you have to get pistons and rings that match the new bore size. Usually, pistons are made in overbore sizes because, when doing a basic rebuild on an engine, sometimes it is necessary to overbore the block to get the cylinders straight.

 

Plus new heads. Caus eethe head gasket would get in the way of the firing.

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I think he means to eliminate the piston to have any side-to-side movement in the cylinder (due to wear), and to get the tolerances back into spec.

 

Yeah, that's what I meant.

 

I think he means to eliminate the piston to have any side-to-side movement in the cylinder (due to wear), and to get the tolerances back into spec.

 

Well, I always hear about people taking their engines down and the cross-hatching is still there. Is this usually not true with W's?

 

It's more of a preventative maintenance thing. Kinda like grinding the crank journals and have to use oversized bearings. W's wear very well, so having to bore them just to get the cylinders "straight" is not a necessity. It's just a good idea if you are putting new pistons and rings in to have the cylinders checked, honed, or even bored, if need be.

 

Thanks. How do you overbore an engine?

 

You take it to a machine shop and they make each cylinder diameter larger. .030 overbore means the diameter of each cylinder has been increased by .030in. Not that much when you think about. Once the block has been overbored, you have to get pistons and rings that match the new bore size. Usually, pistons are made in overbore sizes because, when doing a basic rebuild on an engine, sometimes it is necessary to overbore the block to get the cylinders straight.

 

Plus new heads. Caus eethe head gasket would get in the way of the firing.

 

Actually, no. The "holes" in most head gaskets are bigger than the cylinder bore. Take a 3.1L for instance. Cylinder bore is 89mm (~3.504in). The head gasket bore is 93.7xxmm (3.690in). So, you don't need new heads or new head gaskets when you over bore a block.

 

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Gotcha.

 

When I took apart my engine (top end) I still had cross hatching after 95,000 miles. So I wonder since 5speedz34 just said he heard other people with cross hatching

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This question is fine here, geez... whats with the nazis around here?

 

If your hydraulic mount is anything like mine, then you will also have the large U shaped bracket that goes around the front end of the timing cover/harmonic balancer. That will have to come completely off in order to change the mount because it bolts to the bottom of the bracket and the nuts cant be reached with the bracket still on the car. I can't give you an honest answer to whether this is even possible with the motor still in the car, but at the very least you will have to suspend the motor to lift it off the mount. You *might* be able to do this by dropping the cradle, but still, you'll have to hold the motor up. I think the A/C compressor will have to come off too IIRC.

 

Its not the easiest of jobs unfortunately, and I'm sure you'll be fine if you don't replace it. For what its worth, I replaced mine with a solid rubber mount rather than a hydraulic one, just so it wouldn't end up a disgusting mess again.

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