millerwl71 Posted November 13, 2006 Report Share Posted November 13, 2006 I had a coolant leak but it never overheated. I finally got a chance to change out the water pump and let it idel for like a halfg hour and bleed the lines until there was no bubbles. Temperture worked just fine. I left my buddy's house got on the freeway and after about 10 min temp went up fast like it was the rpm gage. Then it went down to the middle then back up, back down ect. Just kept doing it. The next day I figured I'l change the thermostat. I thought that would do the trick. Let it sit and idal for like a half hour. Temp was perfect. Got back on the freeway or even on the streets, the temp went up all the way to red then back down , then back up, ect.. It's driving me crazy. Bleed the lines again. No air just coolant. Hope someone can help. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted November 13, 2006 Report Share Posted November 13, 2006 you might still have air in there. That's exactly what the gage will do in that case. Next time it cools down (overnight) open the radiator cap and see if there's coolant up to the filler neck. Then open the bleeder valve after driving the car a few miles (enough to get to temp and for the T-stat to FULLY open up) see if you get anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdcutty Posted November 14, 2006 Report Share Posted November 14, 2006 you might still have air in there. That's exactly what the gage will do in that case. Next time it cools down (overnight) open the radiator cap and see if there's coolant up to the filler neck. Then open the bleeder valve after driving the car a few miles (enough to get to temp and for the T-stat to FULLY open up) see if you get anything. I would agree that you still have air in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millerwl71 Posted November 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2006 So I should check the radiator first when cold,to make sure it it full, then take it for a ride to get it up to temperature then open bleeder valves? Or open bleeder before I go for a ride? Probably a dumb question, but if I don't ask, I'll do dumb stuff. lol. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted November 14, 2006 Report Share Posted November 14, 2006 If you open the bleeder valve when the engine is cold, the thermostat is not open, and there will be no pressure in the system. Check the radiator first thing. Then go drive around the block. Then check the bleeder valves. Once you see anti-freeze coming out of the bleeder valves, close them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millerwl71 Posted November 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 Yesterday I took it for a ride long enough to get the thermostat to open. Got back home and opened up the bleeders and bleed them. They seem to be coming out pretty good, but still overheats when driving on highway or streets that have 45 miles an hour or faster. But then today at work I decided to give it another try. So I fired it up and waited until it was warm enough for the stat to open. I was under the hood looking around while it was warming and noticed a ticking. It was pretty loud. Looked like it was coming from the stat. I grab the pipe next to it and felt the ticking there, so it was definitely the stat. I felt the hose get warm and I opened up the bleeder and it came out pretty strong and then it just stopped. Waited a few minutes it would start to dribble out slowly then came out strong. It just kept doing that. Then temp gage showed it was 3/4 to right before the first part of the red, so doesn’t that mean the stat should be open all the time? Does this mean it's a faulty stat? Sure hope it is. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 yeah that's a possibility. If it's closing when the coolant is clearly over 200 then that might be the culprit. Also I meant to ask, what kind of water pump did you buy? There is one out there with a different style of impeller fins that is wrong. The incorrect ones are usually the cheap rebuilt units, with a steel impeller like you'd see on imports. Kind of looks like a "star". I have heard these pumps do not work well and will cause overheating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millerwl71 Posted November 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2006 I think you might be right. I bought it from autozone and my buddy said they changed the design because of some recall or problems with the original. Does that sound familier? I'm not sure, but as soon as he put the new one on, that is when it started over heating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted November 17, 2006 Report Share Posted November 17, 2006 if original, you mean OEM (factory) then no, those are fine. It's the cheap remans that are the problem. The WP job is so simple on these vehicles that rarely anything goes wrong that's the installer's fault. I'd say look into it further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millerwl71 Posted November 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2006 Another thing. How many bleeder valves do I have. It's a 92 z34. I only see 2. One on the steel tube coming from the drivers side fire wall, and one in front on drivers side by thermostat. I read in a few posts that some have one by the water pump to. Is there one there also? I can't find it if there is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted November 17, 2006 Report Share Posted November 17, 2006 yeah there should be 2 on your car. They try to put them on the highest points of the cooling system, where air would travel towards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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