marcusa Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 98 Intrigue, 3800 Series II, 165,000 miles... I had a previous post trying to figure out what's wrong. I finally got a little time today to have the mechanic look at the car. It would kind of stumble after accelerating from a dead stop after driving around for a while (more than 10 minutes). It feels exactly like when you shift from N to D and hit the accelerator too soon, only it does it regardless. I was told it is one of the clutches in the AT going out, and apparently what I was feeling is "chatter" (I think that was the word). Would overfilling (what the mechanic did by at least 2 qts) cause this? Also, could anything else (like a defective filter, or even something inside knocked loose by too much fluid) have similar symptoms? I want to get this all sorted out before I'm left stranded, it's not getting any better. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z34-5speed Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 TQ converter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcusa Posted November 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2006 I'll go get a second opinion... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89GP_SE Posted November 11, 2006 Report Share Posted November 11, 2006 Tourqe converter selinoid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcusa Posted November 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2006 What's that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuntzie Posted November 11, 2006 Report Share Posted November 11, 2006 the selonid is electrooinc and could be caused by a computer issue IIRC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89GP_SE Posted November 11, 2006 Report Share Posted November 11, 2006 the selonid is electrooinc and could be caused by a computer issue IIRC the selinoid tells your torque converter to lock and unlock. When its not working right, it will jolt the car when trying to lock the selinoid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regal_GS_1989 Posted November 12, 2006 Report Share Posted November 12, 2006 Defective filter can cause slippage. Usually, if the transmission is slipping enough for you to feel it, It throws a code. IIRC, It will trigger the SES light. Take it to shop that can scan the car, and pull data while driving it. That should be able to pinpoint the problem. Im leaning towards Bad TCC solenoid myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcusa Posted November 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2006 No codes, at least one that lit anything up just yet. When launching, it is not a single big jerk but more of a loud shaking as it first picks up speed. Really scary! Not sure if it was just a coincidence or not, but I did stall taking a right turn onto an elevated parking lot (the one at work on the first day there, just my luck). Car didn't sart until I'd pushed it up the road to the nearest level parking lot. A friendly stranger helped me in the end, and it started when I went to show him how the car wasn't starting. Couldn't figure out why, I kept trying since cars were swerving around me and some digitized their opinion of my troubles... What are the symptoms of a TCC Solenoid gone bad on the 4T60E/4T65E transmissions? And where is it located on the tranny? Please tell me it's the electronic thing next to the filter I noticed when I went under it hile waiting for the fluid, and not something buried deep in the transmission somewhere... I really appreciate all y'alls help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcusa Posted November 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2006 Had the good folks at AAMCO give it a look today. On test drive we were about to give up until it did it. Guy said it elt like something was binding (I tyhink that was the word). Hooked up the scan tool and no OBDII or factory codes, pending or otherwise. Did not have time for them to drop the pan and take a peek inside since I had to get to work. Anyone have feedback on this latest update? Thanks a lot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89GP_SE Posted November 15, 2006 Report Share Posted November 15, 2006 On the driver side of the car, look down at the transmision. You will see a plug in the frint of the transmission (its kinda round shaped) Unplug that and thentakeit for a drive, if it does the same thing, then you know its not a TCC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regal_GS_1989 Posted November 15, 2006 Report Share Posted November 15, 2006 AFAIK, you can't just unplug the TCC on an E transmission. If you unplug the wiring, then you will have all sorts of other issues. The car would most likely go into limp mode and you would feel all sorts of wierd things, that, or it wouldn't shift at all. You could possibly take the car for a drive, and rest your foot on the brake, just enough for the brake lights to come on. The TCC is designed to unlock when you step on the brake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcusa Posted November 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2006 I'm going to go try that on the way to work. Thanks for the help! And with the sensor, maybe I'll see if AAMCO can test the resistance on it or something. Looking directly at it is a good thought. THanks y'all, I really appreciate it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcusa Posted November 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 Well, it got cooler out today so it was only to the point where it was dfoing it very subtly when I almost to work/home. I did try it a few times, and it there was just one "hiccup" and it would go, might've just been the engine overpowering the slight brake pad pressure since it felt different. I'll try again tomorrow to be extra sure, but I think we've got it! What next...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcusa Posted November 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2006 Today it got even colder (under 40 degrees) and not even in the end of my 20-25 minute drive to/from work did it do it or seem like it was going to do it. I even drove harder on the way back to try and get it hot. I'd turn the heater off but I've been really sick and didn't want to end up bed-ridden with a fever again. Which shows that temperature affects it. With the AC off in the summer it would become more pronounced (since the needle would touch 1/2 or even move slightly above) and now in the cooler winter it won't do it at all. Odd, since it didn't do it before fluid change and on thios fluid change I added Lubegard to protect it (by keeping it cooler no less). Are these the signs/symptoms of the TCC Solenoid or could it be something else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcusa Posted November 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2006 Darn thing stalled again , not even sure if it's related or not. This time it was in the center lane of a 6-lane (plus center turning lane) road . At least it strated back up after a few seconds, though the ABS light stayed on that driving cycle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regal_GS_1989 Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 Were you just driving when it stalled, or were you comming to a stop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcusa Posted November 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 The first two times I was almost stopped and hit the accelerator again. Once turning up onto a sloped driveway, the second I mentioned below and was almost stopped at a red light and it turned green. The last time (just a few hours ago) I had been at a red light for a while, it turned green and halfway across the left-turn in literally the busiest intersection in town. Took a couple of tries but it started again (phew). The last two times the ABS light stayed on after starting again, though both times they were started while still rolling in neutral (that may affect the self-test). There's never any warning, and this last time it was coming back from a 1 mile drive to Walgreen's to get something quick for my dad (who has just had surgery) and was in severe pain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regal_GS_1989 Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 Im 99% sure that its related to the TCC in some way. Whether its the Computer, the wiring to the solenoid, or the Solenoid it self. The stalling seems as if it was caused by the TCC is locking up right as you touch the accelerator. That would cause the engine to bog down way too much and then stall out. And if it stays locked up, that could also make it a lot harder to start back up too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 ride the brake slightly next time it stalls while restarting and until you are moving again. see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcusa Posted November 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 Allright, I took the morning off of work tomorrow so I can get this looked at by a pro. I'll be sure and say everything I've learned thus far, this way it'll be a few hours, not "just leave it here for the day and we'll see" Thanks ya'll, I really appreciate it! I'll keep you guys posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monkton Posted November 23, 2006 Report Share Posted November 23, 2006 This sounds a LOT like my cars problem. When I'm driving my car randomly just jerks, as if the engine is fighting to stay going and it only last a second. Sometimes it's consistent and other times it happens once every 10 minutes and sometimes I'll drive it and it's FINE. I was told it was a fuel delivery problem that would cost waaaaaay to much to fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcusa Posted December 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2006 Cold weather (in Texas terms, meaning below 80) has made the problem go away for the most part. I haven't had a stall since I last posted here. Now that I'm off of school I had time to leave my car at AAMCO for a whole day. They checked it out, said the TCC Solenoid was going out and that it'd be $950 to repair. Sounded a bit steep. What's the price on this kind of service? The guy also called the transmission a 4L80, not sure I want to do the service there. He did mention there was some clutch material in the pan, something there wasn't when I got the fluid changed not too long ago (it was what started this whole thing). So, what do y'all think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z34-5speed Posted December 19, 2006 Report Share Posted December 19, 2006 WTF is a 4L80??? And what is clutch material in an automatic? Glad to hear that it hasn't stalled anymore though, that could have really sucked if it happened in front of oncoming traffic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcusa Posted December 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2006 Clutch material I guess means metal bits from somewhere deep inside. Not sure how metal bits from the clutch packs are different from metal bits from the TC, so for all practical purposes I'm just going to assume he meant metal in the magnet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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