gimper Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 Hello Folks, Tried to search to see if there is any tips of why my kickdown isn't working but came up empty. Have a 1990 Cutclass Supreme International with a 3.1 V6. The plug for the tourqe converter lockup is off due to me having vibration when it kicks in. Many thanks Gimper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regal_GS_1989 Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 My Guess is that the TV cable needs to be adjusted. I forget the exact adjustment method, but i'll post it up if I come acoss it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimper Posted November 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 Thanks, You are very right -- the TV cable is not even connected -- ugh. The small bracket between the cable and the throttle bracket -- need to make a new one since I'm in Europe and can't just go to the local pick and pull. If anyone could take a pic of how it should look like it would be super. Thanks all folks -- hopefully I can get this sorted and the vibration in the tranny is due to early upshift due to the TV cable not being attached. Cheers Gimper My Guess is that the TV cable needs to be adjusted. I forget the exact adjustment method, but i'll post it up if I come acoss it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimper Posted November 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 Here is a good page of how to adj the TV cable http://www.technicalevolution.com/tv.htm Along with a nice page about the tranny and how it's working http://www.technicalevolution.com/clunk440.htm Also this page on the forum explains the adjust http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php/topic,5495.0.html Cheers Gimper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regal_GS_1989 Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 I'll try and get a picture sometime later tonight after I get home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimper Posted November 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 Big thanks it would help a lot when I go to the junk yard trying to find something that could work for me. Cheers Gimper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandAmSE Posted November 8, 2006 Report Share Posted November 8, 2006 Could this cause a car not to down shift at all? Or up shift either? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimper Posted November 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2006 Hello, It up shifts but doesn't down shift when you press the accelerator. It's basically shifts as if you had no load on the engine i.e. way to early. A good guess is that it also makes the TCC engage to early causing vibrations since the load is to high. I manage to find something that I can fabricate to fit the purpose attaching the TV cable to the throttle. We will see this evening if I can make it work. Cheers Gimper... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimper Posted November 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 Hello Folks, First thanks for all your pointers :-). Got the TV cable working and the car shifts as it should now -- bit harsh on down shifts but I think what would be in the normal range. Connected the TCC plug (the connector in front of the tranny) also, and the torque converter lockup is engaging as it should. The vibration when TCC engage is however still present. I previously complained that the car is very weak, its like driving a beetle 1200 or so :-(. It runs smooth and there is no knocking, misfire, hesitation, etc its just weak. Yesterday when fixing the TV cable I also got about to find where I had a smell of gas coming from the rear end. Guess what I discovered, somebody had cut a hole in the trunk floor to access the fuel pump and the fuel pump "lid" was not put correctly back. Hence the gas tank was open and there by evaporating gas into the trunk and passenger compartment. Somebody will not cut a hole unless the fuel gage is faulty or the fuel pump isn't working. I lifted the whole thing up to check what they changed and it was the fuel pump. Horror was it when I checked what kind of fuel pump it was -- it was a very very tiny FORD pump. Hmm my lovely GM car was contaminated with ugly FORD parts ;-). Anyways it was the most tiny fuel pump I ever seen -- which prompted me to check the fuel pressure. Hmm it should be a bit over 40 psi when flicking the ignition switch on and off and it shoudl drop to 35 - 38 psi when running. My fuel pressure when flicking the ignition switch on and off was 0 (zero) the pump simply didn't hold pressure when turned off -- or didn't run long enough to build the pressure up (tried to flicking the ignition switch for quite a while). Running since it would buildup pressure when cranking was a lackluster 30 - 32 psi. I think I found why the engine is weak -- it runs lean and the ECM is compensating for it making the engine weak (retarding the ignition etc). I wish I had a US pick and pull junk yard here or a Kragen/AutoZone what ever -- but I don't I'm in freaking Europe which doesn't know about decent parts stores beside the car dealers or the once selling car freshners and other things you can do without in a car. Hmm buying a new pump from the US will be expensive, but hey Bosch makes fuel injections hence fuel pumps of better caliber than the tiny Ford pump. Bosch electronic fuel injections have a system pressure of 2 bar (30psi) and Bosch mechanical K*-Jetronic has a system pressure of 70-80psi -- both systems has very high flowing pumps (at least for larger Volvo, Saab, BMW or MB cars). The question is if the pressure regulator on the LH0 will be able to regulate the fuel pressure coming from a K*-Jetronic pump (since the electronic fuel injections by Bosch might not produce the correct pressure and flow). Cheers and many thanks Gimper.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 Definately get that pump replaced! Good luck finding one that won't be too awful expensive though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 Definately get that pump replaced! Good luck finding one that won't be too awful expensive though. Fuel pumps shouldn't be that much. I know that a WalBro is about $100. So it should be less than that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 Definately get that pump replaced! Good luck finding one that won't be too awful expensive though. Fuel pumps shouldn't be that much. I know that a WalBro is about $100. So it should be less than that. Tony, he's in Europe. Read his last post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 wow! a new member in europe! welcome. try checking ebay for the parts you need, and see if they will ship. some other companies will sell and ship parts to destinations...... if you were a US serviceman, AZ offeres free shipping to apo/fpo address, but it sound like you are english? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ns87 Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 Welcome to the Wonderful World of a 1990 Oldsmobile. I don't think I've ever had just one part go, they always go in groups! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUEL-PUMP-OLDSMOBILE-CUTLASS-CALAIS-88-91-EP378_W0QQitemZ130040882966QQihZ003QQcategoryZ33555QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem That's an OEM AC Delco pump for your car, price is good too considering they were ~$69.99 at autozone a year ago. That seller has several of those listed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimper Posted November 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 Hello, Thanks for welcoming me :-) – yes can order from the states – it just takes time – ah what shop do you mean to when you say AZ - AutoZone? Anyways thanks for all your help, lets see if we can find why the Cutlass doesn’t work as it should. Got that fuel pump replaced yesterday -- not with an AC/Delco one but with a Bosch out of a Volvo 850 (2.4L engine 160HP with Bosch Motronic fuel injection). The pump is a rather large one and has a high volume and sufficient pressure. The fuel pressure is normal now 36psi on idle and 38psi at 2000rpm no load (higher voltage from the alternator). However it looks like the ECU isn’t sending the 5 sec prime signal although to the pump. The pump is only getting power when I cranking or run the engine. Don’t think the ECU is fried but need to check why the pump isn’t primed when turning the ignition on. I guess that has to wait until I get the service manual and can trace things – with out a real (as in GM published) service manual you are a bit in the dark. I still experience the vibration when the TC locks - the engine is in my view weak. I don’t know the original performance and can only compare it to my 89 Bonneville with a 3800 V6, which happily do 70mph under light throttle on the highway (normal landscape with some light up hills and down hills). With the Cutlass I have to nearly floor it to do the same and if the up hill is somewhat steeper I don’t think it will be able to do 70mph – don’t want to push it to hard since it will just down shift and scream when the rpm shoots up. Okay the engine has 190k miles on it but there is no mechanical noise from it. Need to check the vacuum to see if there is an indication of severely worn cam shaft but I highly doubt it (usually the lifters gets noisy). I also need to get one of those OBD-I diagnostics cables so I can run freescan – anybody knowing if there is any other really good OBD-I scanner out there that doesn’t cost a fortune? There is no error codes – had a momentarily high MAP/MAF signal when I started the engine after changing the fuel pump but that one cleared. So what can it be? * Clogged cat/exhaust: yes possible, it’s the original exhaust and its VERY rusty * No spark advance: yes possible, but can’t see it until I get a scan tool * Fuel delivery problem: Na don’t think so the pump is working now and I doubt all the injectors are clogged up – will although check the fuel filter. * EGR always open: yes possible but the engine would normally run hotter then and it doesn’t. Will check it – need to get some good gasket paper so I can make a new gasket although. Ugh it’s really a bitch to be in Europe. Well will move back one day but stuck here for quite some time now – so better make the best out of it. * Faulty coils and/or spark wires: can be but the engine would normally misfire especially if it’s damp/foggy outside and it doesn’t. * Air filter clogged: No it’s new… * Spark plugs: Na, misfires but will change them anyways since the car needs an overhaul * Throttle Valve clogged: Don’t think it can be that clogged but will clean it since it’s a part of the overhaul Hmm, this is a uniform drop of power. There is no misfires, no hesitation (like oh it doesn’t come then it comes), no vacuum leak noise, no mechanical engine knocks. Hence it must be something that uniformly affects the performance, my list of checks will be, EGR, exhaust need to make that one from scratch since they will charge you an arm and a leg for a Walker one. Anybody have any other suggestions to what it can be? Cheers and thanks in advance Gimper…. PS: Getting my 1990 TGP a month from now, that will be fun :-). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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