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Best clutch for 3.4L TDC and Getrag 282.


Baddflash

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As I thought the stock 3.1L clutch is not up to backing the 3.4L. What would be the best option for a fairly agressively driven daily driver? All I need is something that won't slip if I nail a shift, but I do plan to turbo the car so that should be considered also.

 

Thanks

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Guest TurboSedan

i use a $150 LUK RepSet clutch on my 227whp/325wtq Turbo 3.1 and it is GREAT! however, your engine is obviously going to be spinning faster than mine so that is something to consider.

 

http://www.turbosedan.com/cutlass/engine/DSC01465.JPG

http://www.turbosedan.com/cutlass/engine/DSC01471.JPG

 

it has NEVER slipped once yet (it probably would if i used drag radials or slicks though lol). i only have about 12,000 miles on the clutch and so far i couldn't be happier with it. i also use a LUK RepSet on my Lebaron GTS Turbo. again, no problems. my brother uses the LUK RepSet on all 3 of his Turbo Dodges and no problems at all and they have lasted a long time. fwiw, all three of his Turbo Dodges are much faster than my cars.

 

whatever you do, DON'T BUY a Centerforce clutch. while i don't have any experience with them myself, i've heard from quite a few people they will slip like crazy when hot.

 

my next clutch will likely be a SPEC (i'm planning on a bit more power later and would like a clutch that's a little more like an on/off switch :)

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Thanks for the info. I'm, suprised a cheap clutch like that can handle the power you're putting down. :eek:

 

I notice Curtis walkers uses a clutch masters, he's shifting a lot higher than I am to. I don't need a stage 4 like he is using but they must be pretty good to hold up to that motor.

 

I would probably only get a Stage 1 or 2 unless I go really crazy. :willynilly:

 

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I actually haven't driven a GM FWD car with either a 282 or a 284 that DOESN'T slip if you shift too fast...............hydrolic clutches (GM ones at least) suck balls :evil:

 

I have to shift my Grand Prix grandma slow, and all the L body 5 speeds with 282's do the same crap.............

 

 

 

 

 

I think I need to convince Clutchnet (I have one of their clutches for my NX and it's the closest thing to perfect for a street car I've driven yet) to make something for the 284 (that or go ahead with my weirdo 282 plan) or next time

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So I just got nosy..............apparently clutchnet DOES make stuff for the 284 (282 as well)...........they have 2 different pressure plates and 9 different clutch disks.

 

You just have to look under Chevy Lumina (for the 284 stuff)......... :rolleyes:

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Which one of the Clutchnet clutches would you suggest for a street (but hard driven) car?

 

I don't want something that's going to slip when I take it to the track. I also don't want one that's going to jerk the hell out of the car either.

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I recommend the SPEC Stage 3 6 puck, sprung. Very mild pedal, smooth engaging and once it's engaged, it holds hard. Drives like a factory clutch and has tons of grip (450 ft. lbs. TQ)

2458244_57_full.jpg

It's the one for 1989 Pontiac Grand Prix 2.8L (getrag 282). horsepowerfreaks.com has them for $269.

 

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i have the centerforce dual friction. recently it started making a slipping sound when i'm engaging it after the car has warmed up. i can't wait to pull the tranny and see wtf is wrong. not my idea of fun

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Which one of the Clutchnet clutches would you suggest for a street (but hard driven) car?

 

I don't want something that's going to slip when I take it to the track. I also don't want one that's going to jerk the hell out of the car either.

 

This combo is as close to what I have on my NX as I can get with the Lumina stuff they list:

 

This disk: http://www.clutchnet.com/product.php?productid=4199&cat=0&page=1

 

And this pressure plate: http://www.clutchnet.com/product.php?productid=20299&cat=0&page=1

 

I might consider jumping up to their "yellow" disk though..............

 

My NX has a red pressure plate and one of the fiber carbon disks (I can't remember which)...............it's like a normal organic clutch on one side, and has the little pucks on the other.................

 

Basically, it has a smooth CRISP engagement that isn't at all jerky once you learn to drive it (I have an 8lb flywheel too.............it's easy to kill on the first few tries), but hasn't slipped on my yet under ANY conditions.

 

 

Then again, that's comparing a 2600lb cable clutch car to a 3400lb hydrolic pull type clutch car...............apples and potatos.

 

 

*I* think your best bet is to give them a call and see what they have to say.................they put me onto a GREAT setup for my shitbox.

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Thanks for the info guys, still sure which way I'll go as there appears to be quite a few options. The car is parked for the winter so it's not a big rush, and as long as I shift nice it doesn't slip at all.

 

I get what you're saying about cable vs. hydrolic, cause I'm comparing the Lumina to my SHO. The SHO has a cable driven clutch and a rod shifter, being a far better design it really isn't fair to compare them.

 

Regardless this will be corrected even if I have to custom build a cable operated clutch for the 282 it will happen.

 

 

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Guest TurboSedan

I get what you're saying about cable vs. hydrolic, cause I'm comparing the Lumina to my SHO.

 

Regardless this will be corrected even if I have to custom build a cable operated clutch for the 282 it will happen.

 

 

 

that would be cool. the clutch in my Cutlass feels soft & mushy in comparison to the cable clutch in my Lebaron GTS. although both cars have cable shifters. my brother's Omni GLH has a rod shifter and i love how it feels.

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I hate the way hydrolic clutch' feel, I certainly prefer the cable type or directly actuated.

 

The only problem swapping is the clutch pivot point is the very top in a w-body, where a cable setup requires the cable attach a certain distance above the pivot point to get the needed travel. I'm not sure if it possible to do this with the w-body pedal pan and space constraints. The tranmission side of it is really simple though it will have to be custom built.

 

I need to figure out what I need to make it work then see if I can make it fit.

 

Rod shifters are so much nicer than cables in every way.

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