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THe greaat debate- i hope


kuntzie

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ok so the TGp is going in for storage... then the fun begins with the engine overhaul....

 

for starters- I WILL NOT DROP THE STOCK TOPEND

 

ok so anyways im getting the top end done, do the extreme including cutting the upper intake open to fully port and polishing it, then rewelding it. (not me getting it done though)

 

ok so the bottom end.. this is where i need imput....

 

should i

 

1. keep the stock block and get custom pistons ect..

2. stock 3400 bottom end and build the shit out of it

3. aluminim block from gm performance (anyone know the part #) and build the shit out of that

4. other (please specify)

 

 

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I'd use a 3100/3400 block, or even the Bowtie block(if you have the cash) with a cryo-treated 2.8 crank(if you have the cash). If not, a stock 2.8 crank will be fine. Everything from there on up will probably be custom though. The stock bore is fine, but since the engine definately has wear and tear, a slight bore would be beneficial to gain some compression back. Obviously, the higher the compression, the more efficient it will be and the more power it will make, but the more chances of blowing something up, uses of high octane gas, and tuning might be a bit more difficult.

 

Why do you want to keep the 3.1 intakes?

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Personally, I would love to see how much the stock bottom end could take. I think it would surprise a lot of people what the stock bottom could handle as long as the tune is decent. :mrgreen:

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Just do what my motor has, Crower SBC Sportsman Rods *Preground for 60*V6 engines* and JE Pistons. You gonna get ballsy and do a Rollercam setup?

 

Curtis was making 400+ WHP with an LG5 crank and block so I don't really think you need a bowtie block unless you really want to feel warm and fuzzy inside and bore it to a 3.4 or so

 

This is all you need to know:

 

http://60degreev6.com/showthread.php?t=24943

 

From what I gathered, this really appears to be a write-up for a 3x00, considering the cam part "The stock cam isn't the best grind for boost. But, with the lack of an aftermarket version, there is only so much you can do. A regrind is possible, but certain aspects (Lobe Seperation Angle) can't be altered, thus leaving a regrind far from desirable for boost. "

 

You can get all sorts of cams for a 2.8/3.1...Crower had no problem grinding one for my engine.

 

Are you going to O-Ring the block and the whole works I would assume? ARP Rod Bolts, Head Studs, balanced rotating assembly, align hone, etc. etc.

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Guest TurboSedan

ok so the TGp is going in for storage... then the fun begins with the engine overhaul....

 

for starters- I WILL NOT DROP THE STOCK TOPEND

 

ok so anyways im getting the top end done, do the extreme including cutting the upper intake open to fully port and polishing it, then rewelding it. (not me getting it done though)

 

ok so the bottom end.. this is where i need imput....

 

should i

 

1. keep the stock block and get custom pistons ect..

2. stock 3400 bottom end and build the shit out of it

3. aluminim block from gm performance (anyone know the part #) and build the shit out of that

4. other (please specify)

 

 

 

i pick #2. i mentioned doing just that in one of your threads on v6z24.com and got flamed for it :roll: some (most) of those guys have such a boner for the 3400 top end swap that they practically think the LG5 is garbage. with forged 9.0:1 Wiseco pistons available for the 3400, i would definately do that and just stick with the GEN-II top end. the 3400 heads/intake is obviously better but the plenum is too fugly IMO. too fugly for me to consider using the 3400 stuff i already have. the 3500 plenum helps appearance alot (among other things of course) but it still doesn't help much. LG5 plenum is t3h pimp x eleventy billion.

 

aluminum block would probably be wayyyy expensive and wouldn't it make traction worse?

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ok i guess i should say this aswell...

 

the engine thats in my car will not be teared down, i got a blown LG5 i would use for the build up, thats why im asking what i should do. i totally agree with the dnot broke dont fix it... the motor in my car (minus the turbo) will then me making its wa to a different car :twisted:

 

i am thinking the 3400 block would be best, as i can get one for under 20 bucks for one lol and i can easily get forged pistions for them asweel as other stuff.

 

 

 

also as discussed with dave (invasion1) traction with the aluminm block may be worse, not to mention the block will not be cheap

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I'd say go with stock bottom end, though the 3400 block does have its strengths, plus the extra displacement to boot. And they can be bought cheap!

 

 

 

 

i pick #2. i mentioned doing just that in one of your threads on v6z24.com and got flamed for it :roll: some (most) of those guys have such a boner for the 3400 top end swap that they practically think the LG5 is garbage. with forged 9.0:1 Wiseco pistons available for the 3400, i would definately do that and just stick with the GEN-II top end. the 3400 heads/intake is obviously better but the plenum is too fugly IMO. too fugly for me to consider using the 3400 stuff i already have. the 3500 plenum helps appearance alot (among other things of course) but it still doesn't help much. LG5 plenum is t3h pimp x eleventy billion.

 

aluminum block would probably be wayyyy expensive and wouldn't it make traction worse?

 

See that's weird because I thought the exact opposite. I do like the 3.1 MPFI plenum looks, yet I like the 3100/3400 plenum more. The 3500 plenum looks like a slab of shit to me, but it works well so I use it.

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Guest TurboSedan

i am thinking the 3400 block would be best, as i can get one for under 20 bucks for one lol and i can easily get forged pistions for them asweel as other stuff

 

remember, the 3400 has more benefits than just larger displacement. and it's bigger in that it has larger pistons and not a longer stroke (a GOOD thing...we have enough torque as it is). i'd go for it.

 

another idea that people have talked about in the past (but has anyone ever actually done it?) - get a 3400 block, throw a 2.8 crank in there with custom forged pistons to make a big bore/short stroke 3.0L 60*V6 that will rev like a mofo with a 7 grand redline. of course you'll need to spend some bucks on the valvetrain. with a short stroke & larger bore you could get rid of some of that torque and gain horsepower which would be great for traction. i imagine an engine like that would love a nice big turbo :twisted:

 

although it might not be worth it considering you're set on GEN-II heads/intake...they probably couldn't breathe for shit at 7000 RPM anyway.

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Guest TurboSedan

See that's weird because I thought the exact opposite. I do like the 3.1 MPFI plenum looks, yet I like the 3100/3400 plenum more. The 3500 plenum looks like a slab of shit to me, but it works well so I use it.

 

yeah, i guess it's all just a matter of preference when it comes to the appearance aspect.

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Guest TurboSedan

the motor in my car (minus the turbo) will then me making its wa to a different car :twisted:

 

why am i suspecting this "different car" is a certain Pontiac Sunbird? :razz: nice light car, and boy would that thing MOVE. a Z24 would look alot better though IMO.

 

or you could go TOTAL sleeper and put it in a Corsica! hell yeah!

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another idea that people have talked about in the past (but has anyone ever actually done it?) - get a 3400 block, throw a 2.8 crank in there with custom forged pistons to make a big bore/short stroke 3.0L 60*V6 that will rev like a mofo with a 7 grand redline. of course you'll need to spend some bucks on the valvetrain. with a short stroke & larger bore you could get rid of some of that torque and gain horsepower which would be great for traction. i imagine an engine like that would love a nice big turbo :twisted:

 

That's what I suggested about 11 posts up. I think it would be the funnest engine, especially since it would rev pretty quick and have a higher redline.

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Guest TurboSedan

one other thing worth mentioning is that the 2.8 crank might just be stronger than the 3.1 crank due to the journals being closer to the center of the crankshaft.

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