THe_DeTAiL3R Posted October 28, 2006 Report Share Posted October 28, 2006 Bolts busting would be the only thing I would be worried about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted October 28, 2006 Report Share Posted October 28, 2006 doesn't look like too bad of a setup and lol nice, doing the shocker while holding the mount Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19GT92 Posted October 28, 2006 Report Share Posted October 28, 2006 Over time from daily driving the force from the motor trying to move when you speed up. Or slow down is gonna put stress on the metal bracket and before you know it pow either the bracket is gonna crack or snap clean off from the block or its gonna snap the bolt holes out my advice to you is get the ffp mounts and save the headache of tryin to change that bracket. Btw the motor mounts are there for a reason and thats to let the motor move be it ever so little and do gtp munky i aint no noob i have had 4 other gps beside's this one................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted October 28, 2006 Report Share Posted October 28, 2006 I've used those brackets to lift the engine.. they're not snapping clear off the block anytime soon. Dogbones are NOT under that kind of stress.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp90se Posted October 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2006 i aint no noob i have had 4 other gps beside's this one................... your still a n00b, and a disrespectful one at that and lol nice, doing the shocker while holding the mount Bolts busting would be the only thing I would be worried about. The bolts will not wear though, they are grade 8. Over time from daily driving the force from the motor trying to move when you speed up. Or slow down is gonna put stress on the metal bracket and before you know it pow either the bracket is gonna crack or snap clean off from the block or its gonna snap the bolt holes out my advice to you is get the ffp mounts and save the headache of tryin to change that bracket. Btw the motor mounts are there for a reason and thats to let the motor move dogbone mounts are designed to keep the motor from moving back/forward because the lower mounts sit on the bottom, unlike a SBC setup where the mounts support the block from the sides and the tranny mount holds it from going backward/forward. As I said before, the weak spot in this setup is the alum bracket, which if it does wear out from stress cracks, its a 20 minute job to change, not the end of the world. As far as your advice, anyone off this site could tell me FFPs product list and how great they are....I hotrod, make my own parts and try different things. If I cared more about the car, I would be using RWD type mounts on the side of the block and brackets attached to the subframe 2 hold it in place eliminating the need for dogbones all together....but its a daily driver, and every "mod" I have done to the car is either for MPG or replacement for worn out parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted October 28, 2006 Report Share Posted October 28, 2006 i aint no noob i have had 4 other gps beside's this one................... still a noob... and like gp90se said a disrespectful one as for the bolts or bracket breaking... the bolts breaking is a 30 second fix with new bolts... OH NO!! and unless your using high quality hardened bolts then the bracket won't be the first thing to break... (and like I said before, I don't have the greatest knowledge of metals) gp90se... how long have you had them on the car now? You will have to keep us (or at least me) up to date on this... Someone else said save money in the long run and get FFPs... even if he has to go to a wreckers or the local hardware store to replace either the bracket or bolts, its still going to be much much much less than the FFP alternative... the only reason I haven't bought the FFPs for my engine is because as soon as I have the funds I am doing an entire engine swap and I can't justify dropping money into my engine. This however I can build out of stuff my father has in his garage... Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp90se Posted December 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2006 Though I would update the dogbone thread. Ive put about 3k miles on the car so far, and had absolutely no issues with that mount in there. No broken/cracked brackets, no broken bolts, no warped anything. When the car is warmed up and in gear is the only time there is a noticeable vibration, and even then, its no worse then the 3 10s i was running in the trunk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick1234 Posted December 13, 2006 Report Share Posted December 13, 2006 thats a lot of vibration Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp90se Posted December 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2006 should have worded that better, its a slight vibration from the mount Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted December 13, 2006 Report Share Posted December 13, 2006 Man i hate the extra vibration i get from my poly mounts, so i dont know how you can stand your solid ones. I need to go to a junkyard and pick up some factory ones...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimper Posted December 13, 2006 Report Share Posted December 13, 2006 Hello, Solid mounts works fine its even the preferred for any HP applications such as drag or track. You simply don't want the engine to move around - you want everything down to the wheels. The reason why more or less* no engine/gearbox comes mounted solid out of the factory is noise and to some extend vibrations. Ever driven a car which has solid mounts through out? You hear everything not just valves but most notably the gears in the gear box - they are earsplitting to be modest (at least on a manual). Nobody how is sane would drive around like that back and forth to work. Now that said you can’t mix solid and non solid mounts that will create metal fatigue, why? Well one end is allowed to vibrate the other end is not and that will sooner or later break the end that is mounted solid since it will flex in the metal. If you going to mount it solid do so throughout and do it properly so that there is no chance of metal fatigue. Yes, I have mounted several race engines solid so I think know what I’m talking about ;-) – but I would not do it on a car that I would drive around town unless it was a street racer. Gimper…. *E.g. a HD Sportster before 04 has it’s engine/gearbox solid mounted and can you think about anything vibrating as much as a V twin HD. Noise is however not much of a concern when it comes to bikes ;-). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted December 14, 2006 Report Share Posted December 14, 2006 ok so the only thin i have to say is as long as your 2 lower mounts are fine you will have no probs, nice job and it looks halfway decent too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp90se Posted December 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2006 Hello, Solid mounts works fine its even the preferred for any HP applications such as drag or track. You simply don't want the engine to move around - you want everything down to the wheels. yup and a cheap solution to the problem without spending any real money. The reason why more or less* no engine/gearbox comes mounted solid out of the factory is noise and to some extend vibrations. Ever driven a car which has solid mounts through out? You hear everything not just valves but most notably the gears in the gear box - they are earsplitting to be modest (at least on a manual). Nobody how is sane would drive around like that back and forth to work. I can hear the t/c lockup, and feel the motor shift gears if I'm accelerating hard, but it's not bad my any means. The tranny mount absorbs most of those noises. Now that said you can't mix solid and non solid mounts that will create metal fatigue, why? Well one end is allowed to vibrate the other end is not and that will sooner or later break the end that is mounted solid since it will flex in the metal. If you going to mount it solid do so throughout and do it properly so that there is no chance of metal fatigue. on a RWD type setup, I would be more prone to agree, but since a dogbone does not take must abuse, using only one is fine. the 3.4 only comes with 1 mount and that motor rocks much harder then a 3.1 Yes, I have mounted several race engines solid so I think know what I’m talking about ;-) – but I would not do it on a car that I would drive around town unless it was a street racer. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt. Solid engine mounts have been used for many, many, many years on all types of cars, and yes, typically for track use, but since a dogbone isn't truly an engine mount, it's not going to cause typical motor mount issues. *E.g. a HD Sportster before 04 has it’s engine/gearbox solid mounted and can you think about anything vibrating as much as a V twin HD. Noise is however not much of a concern when it comes to bikes ;-). Motorcycles are an entirely different subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PCGUY112887 Posted December 15, 2006 Report Share Posted December 15, 2006 Why don't people just find poly bushings to replace the stock bushings in the stock brackets? Seems like you would get the best of both worlds, cheap and performance without metal on metal action. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97CuttySupSL Posted December 15, 2006 Report Share Posted December 15, 2006 not my stock cup of tea.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted December 16, 2006 Report Share Posted December 16, 2006 on a RWD type setup, I would be more prone to agree, but since a dogbone does not take must abuse, using only one is fine. the 3.4 only comes with 1 mount and that motor rocks much harder then a 3.1 the 3.4 also has two lower motor-side mounts opposing each other. You can't compare that to the 3.1 setup with 1 lower in the middle that "tilts". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp90se Posted May 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2007 Figured I'd bring this back from the dead. 6k miles put on the solid mount or so. The alum mount didn't crack or snap, the bolts are still straight and the dogbone support bracket is straight. For shits and giggles I put the stock dogbone back in last night, and the braking difference is defiantly noticeable when slowing down from 50+mph. The vibration from the solid mount hasn't loosened anything up that Ive noticed and overall, I'm happy with the solid mount. This is not a mod I would recommend for people who are looking for mint ride quality, but for anyone who is looking for a little more power being planted to the ground and a little better stopping ability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.