Jump to content

Solid motor mount *Pics-56k Warning*


gp90se

Recommended Posts

I dont post up on here much more, but I figured I would share one of my newest mods

 

(pics can be taken if wanted) I took a piece of pipe, about 6", drilled holes identically as far apart as the stock dogbone, put in the sleeves from the stock bushings and welded them in. I only did one as I can't see a reason for doing another.

 

Pros:

Car shifts better

launches harder (i dont race it)

Brakes are a lot more responsive

 

Cons:

Vibration @ idle, worse in gear stopped

can hear every valve open, rocker move and spark plug fire

 

 

The vibration really doesn't bother me much and the cars not that loud that my radio wont cover it. the braking is very noticeable, coming to a dead stop from 70 really is much quicker then with the stock warn out dogbones. Sitting in traffic with everything vibrating is the worst part. Good upgrade for people who do a lot of highway driving IMO.

 

-Jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ToroToro did something similar on his car ( when he had it ) and even he said it wasnt that bad. Personally the FFP mounts are enough for me.

 

 

BTW, pics?

 

 

 

 

 

why you just ruined that car man that is something a ghetto rigger would do or a ****** rigger would do or someone who doesnt care about there car......

 

ummm go back to the hole that you came from.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ive got a couple on my cell, ill upload them this week

 

the 3.1 is nicely balanced, it doesnt shake the car any harder then my subs @ 1/2 blast.

 

The FFPs are nice, even the poly inserts are fine, but I wanted to try this out, and im happy with it,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How do motor mountd help the car stop any faster??

 

:dunno: I think the motors being forced onto the rad support and forcing the car down more...total guess, but theres a noticeable difference

 

FFP is the ONLY way to go.

 

If the vibration/noise gets to me, I will fab up a mount with poly bushings, similar to the FFPs

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I might just try this.... I'm going to be doing an engine swap sooner or later so I don't want to spend a lot of money modding the LQ1, this would be a really good cost effective alternative.

And in theory, it should do the job slightly better than the Poly Mounts...

I say do the other one, take up the rest of the slack from the stockers :thumb:

 

why you just ruined that car man that is something a ghetto rigger would do or a ****** rigger would do or someone who doesnt care about there car......

 

ummmm, thats gotta be one of the most uneducated things I've heard a noob on here say...

if it weren't for ppl like gp90se trying stuff like this, there would be no after market for our cars what so ever

 

Jamie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think you still need a little give for the engine and it looks like you took that away. No poly inserts.......no inserts at all! Metal on metal...........yep bet that sounds great......... be sure to post when one of those bolts break.

 

The problem with solid metal mounts is fatigue cracking, caused from engine harmonics and vibration, eventually something is going to break. What about any casted area on the engine block? It is gonna crack.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree. it doesnt look the greatest (i know that's not important) but you need some kind of dampening, metal on metal is never good. that being said, looks like you got a good start on something

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If solid mounts were a good idea, why weren't they solid from the factory? Think about it, what would be cheaper to make, a solid metal mount, or one with 2 rubber bushings with the metal eye molded into it? Guaranteed if it wasn't necessary or beneficial, GM would pick the cheaper option. JMO.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is vibration from the solid mount, which for 99% of drivers would not be acceptable from the factory, so bushings are always used in motor mounts. GM could not sell a piece that could potentially break something. The bolts will not wear though, they are grade 8. Yes metal on metal vibration can cause stress cracks, but the aluminum mounting area would crack well before the casting of the block. As I said before, the only vibrations the solid mount has is at idle. Since that 1 mount holds the engine firmly in place, there really is no need for a second mount, even though it would be aesthetically pleasing.

 

As for the car looking like it came out of the jungle, it's autumn, and the car lives under a maple tree.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Truth be told, I was intoxicated when we made that, but the welds are strong and it fits perfectly. I don't believe in show cars, I'd rather be effective over nice looking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Truth be told, I was intoxicated when we made that, but the welds are strong and it fits perfectly. I don't believe in show cars, I'd rather be effective over nice looking.

 

Not to mention if you smooth out the edges and paint it, I bet it won't look half bad

 

Jamie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Truth be told, I was intoxicated when we made that, but the welds are strong and it fits perfectly

 

I dont really have anything to say about the mount, but that is the funniest thing I've heard in a while :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To make ya worry a little, GM stopped making that aluminum bracket in '91, and changed to cast iron. Something to take into consideration.

 

the original dogbones in the regal were alum, the replacement ones (from the 90 grand prix) are cast. The bushings I cut apart were from the alum...but I cracked the dogbone accidently without much force. Very very weak design for the style mount when using such a weak metal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If solid mounts were a good idea, why weren't they solid from the factory? Think about it, what would be cheaper to make, a solid metal mount, or one with 2 rubber bushings with the metal eye molded into it? Guaranteed if it wasn't necessary or beneficial, GM would pick the cheaper option. JMO.

 

 

because your prospective buyer for a 1990 Buick Regal would be terribably turned off by the vibrations, and harsher shifts just for starters. as well as jeff said it woulden't be so great for driving around town and siting in traffic.

 

not something i'd do, but i don't see any problems with it, I i mean tehre are 2 more motor mounts under the engine yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This sounds like a mod that would be good for the track... short periods of time and comfort isn't a huge issue... but it would help get that extra little bit of torque to the wheels...

 

I'd only be worried about the cracking issue others mentions... I've never taken any metalergy classes so I don't have a great understanding of how different metals act, but I think based on hear this I wouldn't want to do this mod for a daily driver situation. I may just try it at the track to see what it yeilds...

 

Jamie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...