Addicted To Boost Posted October 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2006 Alrighty man, thanks for your help! I'll try to get that hydraulic motor mount soon, but until then, the TGP will sit in my garage. I don't wanna wreck anything with the way it is right now. Oh BTW I sent you a PM, Garrett Powered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted October 28, 2006 Report Share Posted October 28, 2006 Alrighty man, thanks for your help! I'll try to get that hydraulic motor mount soon, but until then, the TGP will sit in my garage. I don't wanna wreck anything with the way it is right now. Oh BTW I sent you a PM, Garrett Powered already responded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted October 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2006 Ok thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted October 28, 2006 Report Share Posted October 28, 2006 Nick, just get an aftermarket engine mount. Avoid "anchor" brand lower mounts though, they fail prematurely(mine lasted 20,000 miles on my '93 GP ). I replaced mine with a solid lower mount by Balkamp(from NAPA auto parts, you can order them online if you don't have a store near you, they're about $45 shipped online). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted October 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2006 Do these rubber motor mounts make it feel like the car shifts as smoothly as with a hydraulic mount? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted October 28, 2006 Report Share Posted October 28, 2006 Do these rubber motor mounts make it feel like the car shifts as smoothly as with a hydraulic mount? A smooth shift isn't necessarily a good thing for a transmission. The greater the line pressure, the better the shift. IMO, go with the solid rubber mount, and put up with a tiny bit more vibration(even if there is any). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted October 28, 2006 Report Share Posted October 28, 2006 yea, I'd go with a solid one if I had a 5 speed or a N/A vehicle. definately love how my car shifts with the TGP mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted October 28, 2006 Report Share Posted October 28, 2006 Do these rubber motor mounts make it feel like the car shifts as smoothly as with a hydraulic mount? I have the solid engine mount on my '93 GP(4T60-E transaxle), the shifts seem about the same as before when the hydraulic mount was in good shape. I do have the stock style dogbones w/ the wimpy rubber bushings though. On the TGP, you may notice slightly quicker + firmer shifts w/ the solid mount...especially if your current hydraulic mount is actually trashed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted October 28, 2006 Report Share Posted October 28, 2006 I almost made a custom mount out of some vulkem polyurethane but decided to drop the cash for the hydraulic. you could dig out all the rubber and make your own for a couple bucks. make sure its all degreased and cleaned out. even burn out the old stuff with a propane torch and get it all prepped up good, lay down a whole tube of that gray rubbery polyurethane and let it dry real good. that stuff dries real slow, probably take at least a week. I'd give it like 3 weeks just to be safe because its so thick. once it dries though its stronger than rubber but still pliable. I know it would work... and if there wasnt good dogbones in every junkyard I would try it on those too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted October 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2006 Okay guys, today I went to the JY and just took the whole vac line system, from the intake manifold to the vac ball, and just got that, check valve, t, lines and all off of another GP. Also, I took the dogbones off of the GP that were in really good shape. I installed both and took it for a test run- MY VENTS NOW WORK!!! After replacing my dogbones, the car doesn't jerk forward and make a loud clunk anymore (engine falling forward since my dogbones were SOOOOOOO shot. When you watched my engine idle, it looked like that oil commercial where the engines jump out of the cars and fight for the oil the guy dropped lol ) Now it just clunks quietly, which I'm sure is the lower engine mount which is totally blown out. I got a code 31 today when I started it up after replacing all that stuff, so that means I need an oil line for my turbo now. Tranny still slips when coming from a stop, so later this week I'm going to flush the tranny and replace my filter. If that doesn't stop the slipping, it is time for 5 speed swap!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodyman Posted October 29, 2006 Report Share Posted October 29, 2006 Glad to herd you fixed the problem. I will haft two see if that is my problem as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted October 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2006 Now for the bad: since fixing the vac lines, my boost gauge in my gauge cluster DOES NOT work. Before fixing the vac lines, the gauge worked. I have checked all the vac lines and they are all connected. Any ideas of what might be causing this? Also, I keep getting a code 31 (LEAKING OIL FEED LINE), and I get a code 33 sometimes. (EXCESSIVE ENGINE IDLE) What can I do for the codes? The car never got the codes before, until yesterday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted October 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2006 Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted October 30, 2006 Report Share Posted October 30, 2006 Nick, code 31 is overboost(it means boost has went over 9.5psi for a few seconds if you're on the stock chip). Code 33 is the map sensor reading high voltage(low vacuum)...most likely related to your vacuum lines too. Check all the vacuum lines over really well for cracks. and make sure they're fitting snug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted October 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2006 Yeah, I still have the stock chip (still haven't gotten ahold of Jeff M. lol). I'll re-check my vac lines to make sure there are no leaks. Any ideas on what might be causing my boost gauge to suddenly not work? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeZ34 Posted October 30, 2006 Report Share Posted October 30, 2006 My guess is your boost gauge problem is a product of your MAP sensor not getting proper vacuum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted October 30, 2006 Report Share Posted October 30, 2006 dont complain about stuff like that until after you get a vac. spider and IC/TB couplings. nobody wants to keep repeating themselves over and over. see the blue silicone in this pic and those t-bolt clamps on the TB? seek out some stuff like that. I put those on before I would even fire it for the first time. the cars like 16 or 17 years old, they are gonna be bad. ps, check out those washers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted October 31, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2006 Dude I'm not complaining, I was just asking if there was something that happens to make the boost gauge not work, because mine worked last week and now it doesn't. That's all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted November 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2006 My guess is your boost gauge problem is a product of your MAP sensor not getting proper vacuum. You were right; I had a vac line pop off that goes to the map sensor. Plugged it back in to the right place, and voila, boost gauge works!! I also replaced my oil pump drive seal (that was a horrible freakin mess!!!), and I cleaned out my throttle body- all passages and sensors. TGP runs GREAT now! My next project is trying to figure out why my tranny will slip when coming from a stop on occasion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted November 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2006 I replaced my tranny check valve today and made sure I put it on correctly, and did an idle relearn, and now the car works perfectly!! Tranny doesn't ever slip anymore, tranny shifts nice and firm, all vents work great, and everything vacuum controlled now works perfectly (cruise, boost gauge). It feels like a totally different car! Thanks for the help everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted November 5, 2006 Report Share Posted November 5, 2006 Good, glad it's all fixed and working properly for ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted November 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2006 I went out for a drive today for about 20 miles and it ran great- everything is working, runs crisp, clean, shifts great, but on my way home my check engine light turned on. When I got home, I checked the codes, and it was CODE 32. What is code 32? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted November 5, 2006 Report Share Posted November 5, 2006 http://www.w-body.com/ecm-codes.html CODE 32 Trouble Code 32 indicates that the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system has detected a fault. There are two types, the older integrated electronic EGR contains a voltage regulator which converts the ECM signal to provide different amounts of EGR flow by regulating the current to the solenoid. The ECM controls EGR flow with a pulse width modulated signal (turns "ON" and "OFF" many times a second) based on airflow, TPS, and RPM. This system also contains a pintle position sensor which works similar to a TPS sensor, and as EGR flow is increased, the sensor output also increases. The other type is a digital 3-level EGR used in newer engines. Code 32 will get set when: (Integrated EGR) Coolant temperature above the specified amount, EGR should be on. (Integrated EGR) EGR pintle position does not match duty cycle. (Digital EGR) Failure of EGR system. Possible causes include: Faulty EGR valve-to-ECM connection Plugged EGR passages and/or sticking EGR valve Defective EGR valve Defective ECM Check the shop manual for details on vehicle specific EGR valve applications. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.