pitzel Posted October 14, 2006 Report Posted October 14, 2006 Okay, so my horn decided to go off at full blast at 2am in the morning here, and the cops turned up (not to mention angry neighbours). I pulled the battery connection and eventually got it to stop. Where to begin trying to fix this problem? Quote
DiscoStudd Posted October 14, 2006 Report Posted October 14, 2006 I'd start by inspecting: -Horn relay -Horn button -Horn button wiring/ground connection -Signal switch cancelling cam (which the horn wire connects to) -Signal switch... Quote
Crazy K Posted October 14, 2006 Report Posted October 14, 2006 got the swrc in your cs? I have had the same probelm with three different swrc units. you can pull the relay, which should be located in the relay/fuse box located on the drivers side in the engie compartment, partial blocked by the strut brace. At least you can run the car till you get it figured out. Quote
pitzel Posted October 14, 2006 Author Report Posted October 14, 2006 Yeah I ended up pulling the SWRC and electrical-taping off one side of the controller which was super-sensitive when I would touch it. Think it will do the trick. Thanks all. Quote
bill6639 Posted October 15, 2006 Report Posted October 15, 2006 when i bought my regal i had that problem i made the dealer fix it and they replaced the whole airbag unit idk if it was needed but they did Quote
peeeot Posted October 15, 2006 Report Posted October 15, 2006 I have this problem too. This morning I pulled into the parking lot at work and my horn startled me by honking of its own accord. Not too long after, it came on and stayed on. I pulled the fuse as a temporary measure. The problem on my '91 CS is that the foam that separates the contact plates on the outer two horn buttons is too thin to separate them effectively. It makes the button very sensitive and sometimes, perhaps by expansion due to heat or contraction due to cold, it's enough to contact the plates and honk the horn. The solution is to remove the rubbery horn pad and put new foam in. I used some of that foam you can get that comes in sheets like paper. It has been fine mos of the time since I put that foam in but I need to go back in there and add another layer. I'm pretty confident that two layers of the stuff will fix the problem for good. Quote
Stevo Posted October 15, 2006 Report Posted October 15, 2006 Mine blows the fuse and before sounding a few times when you pull on the wheel. The illumination for the steering wheel is erratic as well when I give a slight pull on the top of the wheel. Could this be the signal switch? Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted October 16, 2006 Report Posted October 16, 2006 This is a common problem for Cutlass Supremes w/SWC's. Peeeot is right on the money. The foam that seperates the horn plates deteriorates. On my car, it actually got sticky and gummy, pretty much turned to mush. I tried putting in new foam, but never could find any foam the right density to make it work right. I ended up just disconnecting the side horn buttons by removing the spade plugs and taping them up. That works perfectly as an interim solution. Quote
97loudcut Posted October 16, 2006 Report Posted October 16, 2006 Yeah, my horn doesn't work anymore after I got my remote start put in. -hijack Quote
Crazy K Posted October 16, 2006 Report Posted October 16, 2006 need to fix mine soon. at least I have FTP! Quote
ryannayr Posted January 3, 2013 Report Posted January 3, 2013 Not sure if still having problems but, i have similar issue. The fusebox is underhood beneath the black support bar (3 bolts), takes a 10amp fuse. Ithink your problem may be the horn button underneath the airbag in the steering wheel. Quote
Petes93cutlass Posted January 4, 2013 Report Posted January 4, 2013 Look at my thread as to how to fix the horn pad easily and cheap Quote
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