littleredcar Posted October 14, 2006 Report Posted October 14, 2006 Today to correct a problem of what I believed to be a frozen rollar on the "Check link assembly" for those of you that don't know what that is open your door and it will locate in one of two positions. the unit that keeps it in place is the " checklink assembly" Mine on the Cutlass was really noisy and a bit difficult to operate. So down to my local Pontiac/GMC dealer and have the partsman order a new one for me. I set about taking the door panel off so that I could disassemble the old one only to find that the door jam where it bolts to is TORN. Yup thats what I meant, the metal has become torn to the point where it is very close to ripping the bolt right out of the door jam it's self. INSPECT your Cutlass, mine is a coupe, with those extra long heavy doors. If there is a "Clunk" noise when you open your door have that Checklink assembly replaced before you join me in one hell of a large bill at the body shop to repair it. Yes it can be repaired, seems this was one of those unreported little gems Oldsmobile and Pontiac didn't want the public to know about AND even after they knew this problem was in the original construction of the cars they did nothing to make it stronger...YEA! screw the public again!!!!! Quote
RJansen658 Posted October 14, 2006 Report Posted October 14, 2006 Just out of curiosity.... what state do you live in?, do they use road salt? how many miles are on the car? are you the first owner? how many times, in the whole time you owned you car, did you lubricate it? Quote
littleredcar Posted October 14, 2006 Author Report Posted October 14, 2006 Just out of curiosity.... what state do you live in?, do they use road salt? how many miles are on the car? are you the first owner? how many times, in the whole time you owned you car, did you lubricate it? ***I live in Southern Oregon, No, we don't have the salt problem even in the mountains where we do get quite a lot of snow during the winter months, There is just over 200K on the odometer. I am the second owner from 55K and NO this is not a part that can be lubed as it is inside of the door. Tom, AKA Littleredcar*** Quote
Crazy K Posted October 14, 2006 Report Posted October 14, 2006 I have the same problem on my 91 verts drivers door. I have replaced the assembly with a good condition used one from another car. They are not door specific.... but I have not fixed the torn sheetmetal at this time... I think I will be fixing it by bonding a peice of metal cut from another door in place, after grinding out the area of bent metal... or with jb weld and washers? But what should i expect from such an abused car. never heard of anyone else with this problem, but is seems to be due to the bolts becoming loose. Quote
White93z34 Posted October 14, 2006 Report Posted October 14, 2006 i had one break on me, all it did was snap the part, replaced it, not a bad job. but if the door frame is that thin i can see where it would be bad. Quote
littleredcar Posted October 14, 2006 Author Report Posted October 14, 2006 I have the same problem on my 91 verts drivers door. I have replaced the assembly with a good condition used one from another car. They are not door specific.... but I have not fixed the torn sheetmetal at this time... I think I will be fixing it by bonding a peice of metal cut from another door in place, after grinding out the area of bent metal... or with jb weld and washers? But what should i expect from such an abused car. never heard of anyone else with this problem, but is seems to be due to the bolts becoming loose. ***That could be part of the problem for sure. The man at the body shop that's going to do the work tells me that the rollar becoming worn or sticking in place due to age, as I said there is NO lub place save to shoot a bit of oil; on the rollar that really is a waste of time. The bolt on mine was tight so it has to be just age and the old "check link assembly" rollar becoming worn. I'll be very interested in how you go about repairing your Vert? I believe they will have to remove the door completely to have real access to the area that needs repair. Boo-Koo bucks later it should be better than new Quote
patgizz Posted October 14, 2006 Report Posted October 14, 2006 holy wtf on the quotes! ken, if it's easily accessible i can weld it for you. Quote
littleredcar Posted October 16, 2006 Author Report Posted October 16, 2006 ***welding the tears in the metal will not cure this problem. According to the body shop that is going to do mine the best way is to use a power chisel cut out all of the bad steel with the door completely off the car. replace with a new piece of steel, the very best piece would be from a wreck, re-enforced it on the back side then wire welded into place ground smooth, primed and repainted to match. That is exactly what will happen to the coupe hopefully next Tuesday*** Quote
SigEpCutlass Posted October 16, 2006 Report Posted October 16, 2006 wtf is right?!? I've only heard of replacing it. Never have I heard of someone doing what you are describing. I know no matter how long or how much I've lubed mine, it still fucking clunks. It's been doing that for over 2 years now & it mostly depends on the humidity or cold as to when it does it. Quote
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