bill6639 Posted October 9, 2006 Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 i am in need of rear rotors now the right rear is being dug into after me having to panic brake on the interstate how much will i be looking at for new rear rotors and what size are they? i know the fronts are diff sizes or something do i need to get anything special for the rear rotors and pads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SigEpCutlass Posted October 9, 2006 Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 What do you mean dug into? Do you mean the caliper has seized the pad onto the rotor or that the stop cause the brake pads to severely scar the rotors? Be more specific. Go to Napa's website and you should find all you need there if you just want direct replacement parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill6639 Posted October 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 What do you mean dug into? Do you mean the caliper has seized the pad onto the rotor or that the stop cause the brake pads to severely scar the rotors? Be more specific. Go to Napa's website and you should find all you need there if you just want direct replacement parts. sorry yeah im thinking that the stop has caused the rotor to be as scared the right rear is cut into pretty deep and its making a loud metal on metal scraping sound Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SigEpCutlass Posted October 9, 2006 Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 Are you sure that the caliper is not seized on to the rotor? Is it just when you brake, or do you hear it all the time now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SigEpCutlass Posted October 9, 2006 Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 btw, if the rotors are still have enough thickness to pass PA inspection, you might just replace the pads and have the rotors resurfaced if they aren't warped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill6639 Posted October 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 if i take off the rotors myself and take emto like napa or somewhere will they resurface em and its very light sound when not braking but when i brake its a very loud distinct grinding noise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SigEpCutlass Posted October 9, 2006 Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 if i take off the rotors myself and take emto like napa or somewhere will they resurface em and its very light sound when not braking but when i brake its a very loud distinct grinding noise I'm not sure what they do up there in Williamsport. The Napa I used to go to in Philly would send them out somewhere to be resurfaced if I wanted. I explored that option before, and I just decided to get new rotors instead. If you hear a light metallic "rubbing" sound now, I'd say that the caliper is probably seized. You should take the wheel off the car and see if either the inboard or outboard pad is against the rotor. That will show you for sure what you're looking at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill6639 Posted October 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 after my last class ill go and take the wheel off and see if the caliper is seized am i going to need to replace the caliper too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SigEpCutlass Posted October 9, 2006 Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 after my last class ill go and take the wheel off and see if the caliper is seized am i going to need to replace the caliper too? If the right rear rotor "needs" replacement, unfortunately it's a rule of thumb to replace them in pairs. To me that means 2 new rear rotors & 2 sets of pads at the minimum. The '94+ calipers usually don't seize if the sliders have been lubed/serviced correctly. I've never had to replace any of my calipers, so I'm not sure what to tell you about that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill6639 Posted October 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 yeah im really leanin toward just buyin new rotors and pads for the back instead of trying to get em cut im really hoping that caliper aint seized that'll suck and idk the history of the car b/c i just gt it a couple months ago im going to prolly deal with advance auto for my parts b/c its close they are open later than napa and they give a student discount Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SigEpCutlass Posted October 9, 2006 Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 yeah im really leanin toward just buyin new rotors and pads for the back instead of trying to get em cut im really hoping that caliper aint seized that'll suck and idk the history of the car b/c i just gt it a couple months ago im going to prolly deal with advance auto for my parts b/c its close they are open later than napa and they give a student discount Money talks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill6639 Posted October 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 definately especially when i have little Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill6639 Posted October 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 before i go and look how hard s it to change rotors on my regal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted October 9, 2006 Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 you'll need an 18mm wrench or quality socket to remove the rbakcet bolts. the rest is more common like 15 13 and even a 12 or 11 mm socket. not hard, if you are knowledgable about that type of thing. so try it and ask for help if you need, one thing you might want to do it grab a rental twist in caliper compressor to compress the piston. I always repalce W body rotors if they look bad. They are relatively cheap, and resurfaced rotors are more likley to warp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill6639 Posted October 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2006 you'll need an 18mm wrench or quality socket to remove the rbakcet bolts. the rest is more common like 15 13 and even a 12 or 11 mm socket. not hard, if you are knowledgable about that type of thing. so try it and ask for help if you need, one thing you might want to do it grab a rental twist in caliper compressor to compress the piston. I always repalce W body rotors if they look bad. They are relatively cheap, and resurfaced rotors are more likley to warp. i acutually did rent a twist in caliper tool kit and i bought a new rotor and a cheaper set of pads b/c its the rear me and my roomate were looking at the rear calipers and noticed that at the top of the caliper it seems like there should be a screw but there isnt any screw or bolt can someone explain how i should go about takin off the rear calipers edit** the top spot has a pan bolt in it what tool should i use to remove that bolt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJansen658 Posted October 10, 2006 Report Share Posted October 10, 2006 No that is not a bolt that you remove..... the top caliper attachment is sliding on a pin that is bolted to the caliper bracket. It is innaccesable with the caliper on the bracket like that. You will understand better once you get it off and can see. To do it you have to: First remove the bottom caliper bolt. The look for where the caliper bracket bolts to the knuckle. There are 2 18mm bolts holding the bracket on. You have to get those 2 out before you can take the caliper off of the bracket. The bottom one is easy, take it out first. The top bolt is tough to get at, use a wrench, be patient. The parking brake cable will be in your way, yes, YOU CAN get the bolt out with the cable there. be patient, its a bitch. Don't try to unbolt the parking brake cable..... the bolt breaks 50% of the time. Once you have the bolts out, pull the whole caliper/braket assembly out, then rotate the bracket until it clears the caliper and you can slide it off of the pin that is still holding it. Now you can see why you couldn't unbolt it before. Change the pads, lube all slides, TURN in the caliper piston. You have to put the pads into the bracket just right then put it back on the pin and rotate into place so you can again fit it over the new rotor. This part is tough too. Once you have it all in place, put the top 18mm bolt in first... put it in through the small gap between the cable and the bracket.... it WILL fit. The rest is easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill6639 Posted October 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2006 damn thanks man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdcutty Posted October 10, 2006 Report Share Posted October 10, 2006 I had no trouble at all changing my rear brakes. Took me all of about 30 minutes, tops, from parking the car, to clean up. Hope it works the same for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted October 10, 2006 Report Share Posted October 10, 2006 LAST THING!!!! the piston once turned in has trhose two notches. IT MUST be turnede so a line drawn between the notches are aligned perpendicular to a line drawn between the caliper bolt brackets. (basically image the lines as an X) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill6639 Posted October 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 well me and my roommate yan changed my right rear rotor and brake pads last night at 11pm it took about ah hour and went pretty smoothe iim gonna throw some pics up of how bad my rotor was and the non existent pad also it now stops good again and makes no metal on metal sound that was making me ready to stab my ears out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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