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CS tranny issue


GutlessSupreme

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CS tranny's had a few issues for a while that I haven't really been worried about.. but I'm curious.

 

On the highway in OD, if I give it just little enough gas so that it doesn't kick down into 3rd, it'll buck and miss as if it's about to stall. Not like hardcore, but once every second or two. It's fine if it make it kick down to 3rd. I dunno if this is a tranny or a lack-of-hp issue.

 

Also, I drive pretty spiritedly sometimes and take some quick corners. Occasionally (seems to be getting more common), the tranny seems to drop into neutral if I hit the gas mid-corner, if it's sharp enough. I would think low fluid, but I just changed the fluid and filter 2 months ago (did this before the fluid change too). I'm sure there's enough fluid in there.

 

Just the torque converter heading out? They're not things that affect normal driving of the car, just want to see if there's anything I can do (besides not taking sharp corners or making it chug while in 4th).

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these trans lose gear around turns with the fluid at the full mark. they really need to be run a pint over, which eliminates this problem.

 

your other one, sounds like you're pushing it to the point where the converter should unlock, but before the upshift to 3rd, and the converter isnt unlocking causing a drag on the motor.

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My tranny has both these "issues" as well Gutless...been like that since I bought it. If you want to keep it from dropping gears around corners drop it down to 2nd gear lock out, usually helps....or try the fluid overfilling as well...

 

I also have that shudder...in fact driving around ~40mph the car will buck quite a bit...I avoid that speed....and I usually hit the gas hard enough to drop into 3rd if I want to speed up...seems like a lack of hp plus a shuddery tranny it takes forever to speed up in OD anyway

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yeah definetly check the fluid and add till it's like 1/4 inch over the full mark (about a quart) been there before. Next time the tranny bucks during acceleration, tap the brake pedal with your left foot and see if it goes away. That should unlock the TCC. Though my mom's Olds did this years ago and ended up being an engine misfire that wasn't noticeable during normal driving.

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Thanks much for the input guys.. I'll definetly try adding more fluid then I guess. So if it is the TCC not unlocking, is that the solenoid going bad?

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Didnt know about the tranny issue, will have to go overfill mine lol.

 

The bucking issue really leads me to beleive the TCC is bad, or going bad. But on the 4 speed trannys is a pain to change. The 3 speed trannys are so easy to fix. Takes about 2 hours of time, and that includes going to go get the parts, jacking up the car, drinking a few beers, and getting it done befor the phychotic neighbor throws a bitch fit (been there, dont that). Mine has been doing that, and I just push the gas harder to force the shift, it unlocks the TCC for some reason then, and the problem goes away. So yea, the solenoid is going bad.

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yeah definetly check the fluid and add till it's like 1/4 inch over the full mark (about a quart) been there before. Next time the tranny bucks during acceleration, tap the brake pedal with your left foot and see if it goes away. That should unlock the TCC.

I've had 'inapproproiate use" of the TCC in my 93 3.1, 4t60E vert as well.

But... two very different issues:

 

first time I realized an issue was with the top down, doing about 70 to 80 mph. the tcc was not engaging at those speeds, even though I didn't feel like I was pushing hard enough on the pedal to have the car downshift. it was in the actual O/D, gear but without the tcc functioning. I slowed to 60 to try to figure out what was going on... the tcc would engage if I barely touched the gas, but if I gave it enough power to maintain speed it would release. wtf?

 

second time was about 2 hours later (top up now) on route 9 in kentucky, a 55mph rolling highway. going up the hill at 55 mph. the car car would remain locked in O/D with the tcc engaged, and i was loosing speed. The car started shuddering at about once per second as it dropped to about 50mph.... and the rpm's were fluctuating between 1400 and 1800 rpm.

Applying the brake cause the tcc to release, but it would reapply immediately when I released the brake.

I had to press the accelerator almost 90% of the way to the floor to cause it to downshift. I put the car in regular D for the remainer of uphills during the drive. wtf x2?

 

I'm tempted to seafoam and just see if my car is suffering from lost horsepower. :(

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TCC issues are a pain in the ass, let me say that first off :lol: it can be simple like just a bad solenoid, or if you have a '94 and newer, the PWM solenoid can malfunction. You could have a plugged orifice or screen in the valve body, you could have a PCM problem giving it the wrong signal (ground) there's a O-ring between the converter and shaft that can go bad, eliminating lockup, the list goes on. The tranny I just put in, 1 time out of 10 it won't go into lockup after it released, but will be fine a few minutes later. My original tranny, it would work normally, but wouldn't fully engage it and would "slip" the clutch under more than 1/4 throttle when warm. What fun times! :bonk:

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  • 4 months later...

Just an update on this, turns out it wasn't a TC/TCC problem at all. I replaced my plugs/wires/ICM/coil packs and the issue is gone. Pulls solidly (though extremely slowly) at the bottom of 4th now, without downshifting.

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Just an update on this, turns out it wasn't a TC/TCC problem at all. I replaced my plugs/wires/ICM/coil packs and the issue is gone. Pulls solidly (though extremely slowly) at the bottom of 4th now, without downshifting.

I believe mine can be attributed to worn out fuel injectors... they also seem to be at fault for a hot no-start condition. I will be replacing them this spring.
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Yea my car had begun to miss like crazy at around 3k (see my other topic) after I tried putting another set of wires one that I thought were in good shape. I had given thoughts to maybe an injector or even fuel pump problem but it didn't really make sense to be because the car ran great until it was up to operating temp. Once it got warmed up either the ICM or one of the coil packs started freaking out.

 

Probably would've made more sense just to replace the coil leading from the blackest plugs but I was just fucking done dealing with the issue and I already had a spare ICM/coil setup and brand new wires laying around, just needed plugs.

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