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RobertISaar

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i have a 95 monte carlo and can't get the bracket that holds on the calipers to get loose. i have already chewed up three tork bits and busted a wrench. am i doing something wrong, like are these a left-handed thread? i have to take these off to change the rotors which i have another question about. i bought some Parts Master rotors, which have no dilling or slotting done to them... i have access to a CNC mill, is there any reason a pattern like this wouldn't work? these i have worked out to a 10.5 inch size, but i couldn't remember the inner sizes so ignore those. and is there are major difference in stopping power and life with just a straight drill into the rotor compared to cross-drilling( or am i talking about two different things)?

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As for the torx bolts, they are sometimes a bitch to get off. You sure you got the right size torx bit? They are T-60.

 

Don't drill holes into your existing rotors. That will only weaken the rotor. Actual "performance" drilled rotors are cast with holes in them.

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When all fails, get out the grinder and start cuttin'! I encountered the same problem on my old Lumina a couple of years ago, and I did exactly that:

 

loomiebrakes.jpg

 

I sliced up the bracket so I could rotate it a bit to crack the offending bolt loose. If you go "boneyard" for your new bracket (assuming you hack your old one to pieces) you can use one from any 1st Gen W-Body, either side, as they are reversible...

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If you have air tools it makes the job MUCH easier. But when you put those bolts back in, torque them to spec and use some anti-seize. It will be alot easier next time you need to do this.

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Don't drill holes into your existing rotors. That will only weaken the rotor. Actual "performance" drilled rotors are cast with holes in them.

x2 and don't just buy any off brand one off e-bay, has some are are just the cheap white box ones that someone has drilled themselves without concern for their durability.

 

lots of wd-40. and be careful when trying to turn the torx bolt out, as you want to try to not let the rachet or breaker bar twist sideways, as that is what usually will cause a shear load on the bit, and result in it's breakage.

 

they are not reverse thread :)

 

I use my wieght to turn the bolt down on the passenger side, and a jack to raise the rachet on the drivers side... and turn the wheel out on the side I am one.

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i finally got them off... after i found a t-60 bit that was made in AMERICA. i had to use a breaker bar and a 5 foot conduit pipe to get enough leverage. something that i found strange was as soon as i put the bit in the bolt it twisted maybe 10 degrees on the ends, i thought it would have broken before i got them all out, but it still works...

 

sucks to hear that i can't drill and slot my own rotors, it would save me a hell of a lot money.

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Thats how I broke the bolts loose in the gf's regal. I turned the wheel all the way, that way I could have my 1/2" breaker bar sticking well out of the wheel well. I then took a fence post, and put that over the breaker bar for a ton more leverage. Broke easy then.

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