GutlessSupreme Posted September 26, 2006 Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 It really wasn't that bad, I was just lazy about it. Honestly, the hardest part was getting the old clamp off the boot on the rack side. I had to break out the dremel and just kinda swing it around in the general area of the clamp since I couldn't really see what I was doing Went through the boot in a very little spot (like 2 mm), I just dropped some threadlock on the hole and let it dry. Should be fine. I bought the Lisle inner tie rod tool for the job. None of the ends seem to fit perfect (I think 1 3/8" would've been an exact fit) but the next size up worked. It felt like it was stripping out but I guess it was just the crimp on the rack coming undone. I need to pick up a set of 1/2" extensions though, I was fighting my breaker bar in the wheel well. In any case I got it off nice and clean, tool worked great. The old rod was loose as hell. I couldn't get the outer rod stop nut off after I broke the outer rod loose, so I ended up dremeling it off. I needed to get the old accordian dust boot off before the Lisle tool would fit over the rod (and I wanted to reuse the boots so something had to give). I just used a zip tie over the rack for now, I need to pick up a set of crimpers and a clamp and do it right. I have a serious toe out problem.. matching the new tie rod setting to the old one wouldn't even come close. I screwed it way out and it's still toeing out. I only drove it to school for now, and then back home. I want to try and get the passenger side done just for the hell of it and then hopefully get it aligned this afternoon. no pics, sorry, camera's broked. If anyone wants a write-up maybe I'll steal my parents camera and document the other side when I do it. It's really not a hard job with the Lisle tool, but small hands would really help, at least for the driver's side. Passenger side might be easier. And for the record, I just loctited it onto the rack. I can't see how that crimp tool would even fit in the space you have. Tools used: Lisle Inner Tie Rod tool 18" breaker bar Sledge Grease gun Dremel can't remember socket sizes. Only need them for the lug nuts and crown nut anyway. Torque Wrench Craftsman locking-cam HD vice grip pliers + other improvising wrenches. Torque tie rod to rack @ 74 ft-lbs crown nut to 35 ft-lbs and until you can insert cotter pin. And of course lug nuts to 100 ft-lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted September 26, 2006 Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 at least you have the advantage of no engine in the bay (this is on your STE, right?), mine weren't that terrible a job, pain to get the old clamps off, i think i cut mine, they are presently held in with zip ties as well, but its not like they are going anywhere, and even if i had new clamps, i could never get my crimpers in that tight spot. i also had the problem of a jerk nut being rusted in place, trusty sawzall took care of that. i, as well didn't use a crimping tool and i haven't had any problems yet, and my car was totally undriveable afterwards, an alignment was a MUST. but it felt soo good to drive the car after the alignment, everything in the steering felt great for a change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted September 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 at least you have the advantage of no engine in the bay (this is on your STE, right?) Unfortunetly no This is on the Cutlass. I need to replace it to pass inspection, not to mention the car was getting scary to drive on the highway. Steering's much tighter now, even if it is pulling to the left hardcore I would've done the STE's long ago but I still have the subframe out of the car in my futile attempts to permanently derust/seal it. Can't do any tie rod work without the rack bolted down; right now it's just hanging from zip ties. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted September 26, 2006 Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 19mm lug, 18mm castle nut Did you put any threadlocker on the inner tie rod threads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted September 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 Sure did. Should be fine. Off to start the pass. side! hopefully can get an alignment today, maybe new front tires while I'm at it. I'm not sure what I want to do with my tires yet. The 5 spokes have 215s, the sawblades have 225s. There are two good tires per set. Do I swap the two good 225s onto the 5 spokes and buy two new 225s? Or do I just buy two new 215s and call it a day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted September 26, 2006 Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 i'd just buy 225s and phase out the 215s as you can. also, woulden't it be easier and cheeper in the long run to buy a cradle from the west or south and get it shiped freight to you? out in LA here i have yet to see a rusty cradle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted September 26, 2006 Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 i'd just buy 225s and phase out the 215s as you can. also, woulden't it be easier and cheeper in the long run to buy a cradle from the west or south and get it shiped freight to you? out in LA here i have yet to see a rusty cradle. x2 on the 225s. I don't think getting a cradle from a non rust belt state would be worth it. I know he had the one he has now sand blasted. I think Tony was talking about the actual body of the STE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted September 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 There's no way I would buy a subframe across the country and have it freighted over here. That's like $400 bucks easy. The one I have now I used a large electrical torquey mofoing wire brush thing on, and it cleaned it off perfectly. WHERE IT COULD REACH! Unfortunetly, everywhere it didn't reach or anything I missed crept back to haunt me. Long story short, it's now sitting in a water filled wading pool in my driveway with a battery charger clamped onto it. Electrolysis ftw. The pool has a bunch of holes in it though that aren't sealing so I had to temporarily shut it down. It'll probably have a good full 4 days left once I restart it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted September 26, 2006 Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 freight shiping is cheep, figgure it would probably cost you about $250-$300 total as the yards out here are prety darn cheep. but i'm sure you'll be fine with it as is, i mean do you intend of driving the STE in the winter once its done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted September 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 freight shiping is cheep, figgure it would probably cost you about $250-$300 total as the yards out here are prety darn cheep. but i'm sure you'll be fine with it as is, i mean do you intend of driving the STE in the winter once its done? I plan on selling the Cutlass, so yea, unfortunetly still, a new cradle is not something I want to pay for unless I score a deal on it. If I can find a totaled Monte or Lumi that got nailed in the rear, I'm hoping to be able to steal the subframe, control arms and strut towers from it (big brakes). I may just swap the big brakes from the Cutlass before I sell it, I dunno, the work really isn't all that bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted September 26, 2006 Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 selling the CS? I'd like to get the grdfx, the ones on the door only. oh well So yeah, do a write-up, that would help many of us out. I have done the job before, and when i did mine, I used radiator clampos to hold the boot on... but they do sell cv joint reband kits, which are the same as the proper bands on the boots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted September 26, 2006 Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 I would get it media blasted or sand blasted, that should take of the problem no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted September 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 selling the CS? I'd like to get the grdfx, the ones on the door only. oh well So yeah, do a write-up, that would help many of us out. I have done the job before, and when i did mine, I used radiator clampos to hold the boot on... but they do sell cv joint reband kits, which are the same as the proper bands on the boots. NO PARTING! Well I already did the other side and didn't take any pics lol.. if I feel like taking the wheels off again I'll snap a few shots and try to explain everything as best I can. I was in too much of a rush today. btw, passenger side was no easier. Hardest part was still getting the old clamp off because the space is so small. The newer subframes have a support bracket for something sitting in the rear pass. corner. Neither of my '90s had/have it. But if it wasn' there, it would've made that part a shit load easier. That, or if I had one of those Dremel pen attachments. It's a tight fit to get a big dremel in there and still be able to control it. Alignment tomorrow! can't wait to see how it will handle on the highway now. I would get it media blasted or sand blasted, that should take of the problem no? can't get the inside, otherwise I would. Water will fill every nook and kranny, however Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted September 26, 2006 Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 selling the CS? I'd like to get the grdfx, the ones on the door only. oh well NO PARTING! I meant to trade! I have the newer ones with the full length ridge, I want the older ones, and mine are white. too bad you are out of the way. Have you considered lowering the rear subframe for the job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted September 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 Have you considered lowering the rear subframe for the job? Do you mean the rear of the subframe? Thought didn't cross my mind until after I finished the first one, and I was able to do them both without lowering it... soo.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey b Posted September 27, 2006 Report Share Posted September 27, 2006 not really much of a need to lower the subframe. Just be happy you don't have a 3.4. They are (of course) much more difficult due to the shielding that goes around the passenger axle. BTW, auto zone has the 2 tools to borrow to make the job much easier. For breaking the jam nut free from the outer tierod, I suggest doing that prior to removing the tierod from the knuckle. I have a large crescent wrench that works great for that sort of thing. As for aligning, just look down the length of the car along the sides of the tire. Try to line up with the rear. I did that recently with my car and the alignment is almost dead on, although I do have to get it done professionally still. You do this with the tire back on. Align it and tighten the jam nut to 40 ft-lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted September 27, 2006 Report Share Posted September 27, 2006 I did mean lower the rear of the frame. You could probably lower it one to two inches without issue. I have done my own alignment using a measuring tape. I was never able to my my lumina to pass an alignment pre-check and gave up. basically the front wheels are supposed to have a Zero toe. so if you measure from the same spot or tread line on the front and rear thread on the front wheels, you will have to get the same measurement to be correct. for the alignment, I over inflate the tires so they balloon slightly.... and I rocked the car in between adjustments to make sure I wasn't getting a false reading from a twisting load on the tires This gave the lumina a few years of use in spite of some bad history it had. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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