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H body wheels dont fit


Steve LS

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But then Im sure you guys knew that. I have many styles of H body wheels. I have had a set of Olds 15" alum spokes for years with two good tires so I figured Id buy two good used 225 60 15's clean them up and put them on the Regal which has 205 70 15's w/stainless spoke caps. Many hours later, all cleaned up and looking good with tri shield centers and :shock: they hit the calipers dump ass !! So I pull all the wheels I have out and even the new 16" LeSabre wheels hit the calipers, very bummed. Not only because I can't ride on fatter low profiles but I blew over half a day and 100 . Its the time I could have spent on something else. I'll still use the wheels and tires someday on the LeSabre but damn how stupid.

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How about using wheel spacers? Someone also mentioned this to me, but how about using washers as wheel spacers? Eventually you might even have to remove the wheel hub and use longer wheel studs. I don't know if that's worth it though.

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I would need at least 5/16's maybe 3/8's that would put the wheel off the center hub which is where it belongs for strenght. Then just a little grinding up off the casting burs on the caliper would fit . Then I would need 20 longer lugs and might have to take everything apart to get them in , I'm not sure on that. Dont know it it would be worth it. I'm not sure on how much bringing the wheel off the hub center compromises the safety and strenght of the conection , anyone have any experience with this ?

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I know people have done it before. I think it would be more stress on your wheel bearings, according to a mechanic that I know. It also depends on how far out your wheels are. Anyways, I don't think it'd be worth it considering you'd have to go through the hassle of replacing every single wheel stud with a longer unit. It would be nice though, to have H-Body wheels on our vehicles. I think H-Body and Gen2 W-Body wheels have the same offset.

 

I would need at least 5/16's maybe 3/8's that would put the wheel off the center hub which is where it belongs for strenght. Then just a little grinding up off the casting burs on the caliper would fit . Then I would need 20 longer lugs and might have to take everything apart to get them in , I'm not sure on that. Dont know it it would be worth it. I'm not sure on how much bringing the wheel off the hub center compromises the safety and strenght of the conection , anyone have any experience with this ?
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Washers as wheel spacers would be very dangerous.

Spacers in general are not really the best idea if they space the wheel out past the center hub protrusion. It leaves the potential for the lugs to shear and your wheel would come completely off. It's possible you could buy some super strength lugs so that wouldn't be a problem, but for all this trouble and expense, you could just buy wheels that fit.

 

I have also heard of hubcentric spacers, but I think they run $100/each!!!

 

I had this exact same problem, but I'm not out just $100. I'm out $600 and have a nice set of wheels that don't fit. :( I really hate our front calipers. :cuss: Actually, I hate the rear calipers too, but for different reasons!

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Washers as wheel spacers would be very dangerous.

Spacers in general are not really the best idea if they space the wheel out past the center hub protrusion. It leaves the potential for the lugs to shear and your wheel would come completely off. It's possible you could buy some super strength lugs so that wouldn't be a problem, but for all this trouble and expense, you could just buy wheels that fit.

 

Yeah, that sounds about right I wouldn't do too much modding to get the wheels on. Its not worth losing a wheel going 55 down the highway or even 30.

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Yea that sounds about right. The hub carries the weight and the lugs just hold the wheels tight and get some side torque but the hub is the boss. Its like that on truck, tractors & heavy equipment. Although I believe many of those unilug wheels like Cragers and Keystones have large centers to fit's all and they have been used on big heavy "muscle cars" for decades although most enthouiasts try to get factory wheels.

 

Do the FWD after market wheels fit tight on the hubs ?

 

The best way to do it would be make perfect aluminum 3/8's spacers with center hole and have them mig welded on rims but that would take experts and lots of time or machine work money and then what if they didnt run true. A good welder could do it unless these are Magneasium, then thats a whole nother pain in the ass. All in all defininantly not worth it. I bet 16's GS wheels could be gotten for 100 to 150 sooner or later. I like then good enough. I doubt I would ever spent 600 on wheels with all the great OEM FWD wheels around. Except I'm going to buy some wide 7.5 or 8" chrome ones for the 76 Olds.

 

I feel for ya NatgoSplat ! what would they fit ? Maybe you could sell them on one of the H body forums ? No body wants to cough up the money usually though or cant.

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Most aftermarket wheels don't fit tight on the hub, but in an instance where the lugs loosen and a few break off with only 1 or 2 holding the wheel on... the hub protrusion will keep the wheel from falling completely off before you have a chance to pull over. I know this, because my wife had this happen before! With no hub protrusion at all, the wheel would have flopped around more uncontrollably and probably fallen off before she had a chance to pull over.

 

To have special spacers machined and mig welded to your wheels would probably exceed the value of most first-gen W-bodies. :lol:

 

Well, I sorta had to spend $600 on wheels because there is not one OEM wheel that I care for. Not one. Not to mention I think 16" looks like a 4x4 so I had to get 18". They will fit on pretty much anything EXCEPT a first-gen W-body... but I think if I upgrade to 11.25" calipers and shave 2-3mm off the caliper brackets that they would fit.

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I think W-Body brakes in general are piece of shit, shit designs, shit reliability, just plain shit. Thank goodness my brakes are still working well and have plenty of meat left on the rotors and pads.

 

As for wheels spacers, yes they can run up to $100/each! That's because they're usually made out of machined aluminum and so on. I don't think it's worth it really.

 

Washers as wheel spacers would be very dangerous.

Spacers in general are not really the best idea if they space the wheel out past the center hub protrusion. It leaves the potential for the lugs to shear and your wheel would come completely off. It's possible you could buy some super strength lugs so that wouldn't be a problem, but for all this trouble and expense, you could just buy wheels that fit.

 

I have also heard of hubcentric spacers, but I think they run $100/each!!!

 

I had this exact same problem, but I'm not out just $100. I'm out $600 and have a nice set of wheels that don't fit. :( I really hate our front calipers. :cuss: Actually, I hate the rear calipers too, but for different reasons!

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I can't ask for anything better from the front calipers, never ever had a problem and I'm always around 7-8 w-bodies between family and friends. I wonder if the crosslace wheels seen normally on the late 80s Bonnevilles would fit?

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I can't ask for anything better from the front calipers, never ever had a problem and I'm always around 7-8 w-bodies between family and friends. I wonder if the crosslace wheels seen normally on the late 80s Bonnevilles would fit?

 

I doubt it!

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Hey guys is it true that wheels off a eclipse will work on our w bodys i was told they would as well as certain fwd mopars like shadows and sundances with the 15 inch wheels.

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Hey guys is it true that wheels off a eclipse will work on our w bodys i was told they would as well as certain fwd mopars like shadows and sundances with the 15 inch wheels.

 

Well, the Eclipse wheels are a 5/114.3mm so it will fit the bolt pattern but the offset will need to be checked. I can say that a first-gen Lumina needs an offset of +35mm to clear the caliper.

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Unfortunately, offset does not determine whether a wheel will clear the caliper or not.

My CSA Gladiators are +42mm and do not clear the caliper brackets, not even close. While Penny's old car has Progressives that are +42mm and also do not clear the caliper brackets, but only about 4mm of material had to be shaved off to make them clear. American Racing Snipers have a +42mm offset, but they DO clear the calipers. The factory 16x6.5 have +44mm offset, and the factory 15x6 had a +42mm offset.

 

Wheels are more likely to clear the calipers with a lower offset, but it's no guarantee.

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Brian P - no Bonneville is H body but I like the TGP wheels and their wide also

 

GnatgoSplat - I like the looks of the 80's OEM's wheels to most from the 90's. Some of the aftermarket wheels look good others are disgusting but thats personal taste. For the money forget it, I'd buy L67 headers for the LSS first. I also like the look of a little rubber under a car 60 & 50 series tires are just fine for me. 4X4 your exaggerating their 78's but 18's do look like wagon wheels. Stage coach wheels. I'm too old to get into that trend. I actually still like white letter tires too. Its the era you grow up in I guess. My 76 Olds came with 225 78 15's you should see the diameter of those, their going to wind up on my Dakota but their still taller.

 

I've never broke a lug nut in my life so maybe the center hub is not an issue. Lug nuts are close to grade 8 anyhow, maybe I'll try it, waste another Saturday afternoon.

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I love white lettering, my cutty has Radial T/A's they look sweet, lo-pro's are nice too but the cost way too much so I just stick with small wheels.

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Topic - H body wheels dont fit

Brian asked what about Bonneville wheels

I said - no Bonneville is H body not no Bonneville is H body :P I guess that doesnt mean they might be different in the back but I doubt it. Now I know why Regal alloys look like they do, for room.

 

I like those Radial TA's but I think Im going to try the Firestone Firehawk Indys , they are getting good reviews and price is right. About the same as the TA's.

 

Trivia - Bonneville went H in 87, LeSabre and Olds 88 went H in 86 first.

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Heheh. :lol: I hate white letter tires even though my truck has them. IMO, nothing says trailer parks, beer bellies, and mullets better than white letter tires. *ducks for cover*

 

I have weird taste though. I really don't like any American car built between the late 60's to mid 80's.

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My bad Steve LS, I read that wrong.

 

Now, I hate white letter tires too. I just think they look dumb on newer cars. However, any old muscle car looks great with white letter tires.

 

Robby

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No trailer, no beer, no hair just a few scattered ones. But I am plain white trash country boy though, now I just need to get my shit together and start living like my kind should, now that I know that is. :lol: :lol: :lol: A twelve pack and a ball game on Sundays, slap the woman around the house some and bleachwhite on my letter tires every Friday night. Livin Large. :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

77 to 85 were grim years in American styling that is for sure. I also feel that way about most 50's cars. They have their thing but way to tall and round for me. I like the rapid changing of styling every 2-3 years that went on in the 60's rocket age leading into the early 70's, then the bumper thing happened along with decompression, but the body lines were still nice until 77 when they went very flat and straight except Cam/bird/Vette but that Vette was getting way old by 1983 holy smokes nothing but face lifts for 15 years.

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yes, I love how they changed things nearly every year, it should still be like that, but corporate GM says "no" even little changes

 

Brian---> Fan or raised lettered tires

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White lettering would look stupid on lo-pros but little 14" tires like mine look very dull and boring without it. I was origionally going to get 17" wheels with lo-pro tires, but I couldn't find any that I liked and it would of costed between $800-$1000 for new wheels and tires. I think my current setup looks better the crappy hubcaps and plain tires my car came with and its not worth more then my car.

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