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Standard Battery Capacity


Redfox340

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Quick question: My voltmeter is dipping low and I know my battery is on it's last leg. What's the standard specifications [on a Gen I, DOHC] needed for cold-cranking amps, capacities, and power for a non-electrically modified W-Body? What's the important information or numbers to look for? Thanks!

 

- RedFox340

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when its running with no accesories one, (i.e. A/C, ect), you should be a little over 14 volts on your volt meter inside the car

 

No, before that... while standing at a retail dealer... what specific CCA's, max power and load capacities am I wanting (or needing) for my DOHC Cutlass? Thanks!

 

- RedFox340

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Personally, I'd for the highest numbers. Since I live in Canada and I frequently travel to colder climates, I wouldn't get anything lower than 850CCA.

 

when its running with no accesories one, (i.e. A/C, ect), you should be a little over 14 volts on your volt meter inside the car

 

No, before that... while standing at a retail dealer... what specific CCA's, max power and load capacities am I wanting (or needing) for my DOHC Cutlass? Thanks!

 

- RedFox340

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I ended up puttin' a new battery in my Cutty before I got rid of it. I bought a monster of a battery... 1000CCA. That was for a 3100 though, so I don't know if that big of a battery would fit in yer car.

 

 

Aaron

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8-Cylinder Engines.

The cubic-inch displacement (CID - not liters) equal the Cold Cranking Amp requirement. For example, a 350 cubic-inch displacement engine requires 350 CCA minimum. For colder climates, add 20% of the cubic-inch displacement to the CCA. Therefore, 350 x 0.2 = 70. So, 350 + 70 = 420. A 420 CCA or greater battery rating should be used.

 

6-Cylinder Engines.

Calculate the cubic-inch displacement per cylinder and multiply by 8. For example, a 231 cubic-inch displacement 6-cylinder engine = 38.5 cubic-inch displacement per cylinder. It is calucated as follows 231 / 6 = 38.5 cubic-inch displacement per cylinder. Then, 38.5 x 8 = 308 CCA minimum is required. For colder climates, add 20% of the adjusted cubic inch displacement to the CCA. Therefore, 308 x 0.2 = 62. So, 308 + 62 = 370. A 370 CCA battery or greater should be used.

 

4-Cylinder Engines.

Multiply the cubic-inch displacemet of the engine by 2. For example, a 151 cubic-inch displacement engine x 2 = 302 CCA. For colder climates, add 20% of the adjusted cubic-inch displacement to the CCA. Therefore, 302 x 0.2 = 60. So, 302 + 60 = 362. A 362 CCA rated battery or greater should be used.

 

Car batteries are rated by cold cranking amps (CCA rating), which indicates the battery’s power. The reserve capacity rating (RC) indicates how long you can run car accessories and still have enough power to start you engine.

 

Since starting a car in cold weather can take up to twice as much current to turn over a cold engine, cars in colder climates would benefit from a higher CCA rating. Check your owner’s manual for the original equipment manufacturer’s (OEM) minimum requirements needed for your car; select the battery adequate for you needs. Buying one with an excessive CCA rating may be a waste of money. In every situation, more RC is better.

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Not sure how true that calcultation is, but if you read the manual the 3100 takes a 550CCA (i think) and the 3.4 requires a 650CCA. I believe it too, my brand new 650CCA this winter when it got down to freezing it sure cranked real sluggishly, any smaller and my car probably wouldn't have started. The battery was less then a week old at the time.

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Thanks guys for the info... today I'll be looking around for best price and size on a battery. Keep you posted on the progress and results!

 

- RedFox340

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I have an AC Delco 750 or 800 CCA's and it is 3 years old. Still starts easy. I had my switch turned on for a my secondary cooling fan for 3 hours (oops :oops: ) and when i started my car, it started fine. Well now that i'm talking about my battery, i probably jinked it :x

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I have an AC Delco 750 or 800 CCA's and it is 3 years old. Still starts easy.

 

Mine starts too, and that's not the problem. The problem is that the current battery can't hold an electrical load at idle. When my radiator fans, rear defogger, or as basic as a turn signal, I can visually see the power loss due to the dimming of instrument panel lights and my voltmeter going down. At times, the car will stall since power is reverted to the fans and drops the circuit lower than 10.5 volts (as I found out reading, how cool! 8) ) killing the fuel injectors.

 

Solution: new battery replacement first. Ask questions later!

 

- RedFox340

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Thanks guys for the info... today I'll be looking around for best price and size on a battery. Keep you posted on the progress and results!

 

Sucess! It was a weakening battery and all is smooth now!

 

After digging / replacing it, I saw that stats:

Old: AC Delco - Maintence Free

* 550 Cold Cranking Amps

* 685 Cranking Amps

* 270 Reserve Amps

 

New: Die Hard - Gold Series

* 690 Cold Cranking Amps

* 800 Cranking Amps

* 390 Reserve Amps

 

Crap... I was underpowered...

 

- RedFox340

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