joey b Posted September 10, 2006 Report Share Posted September 10, 2006 I bought new balljoints for my car and when I attempted to tighten them down one of the bolts stripped from the nut they provided. I didn't do the others as tight and in no time at all they all became loosened. Kinda scary. Anybody know what the torque spec would be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted September 11, 2006 Report Share Posted September 11, 2006 The little bolts that come w/ the replacement ball joint should be torqued to 10-12 ft-lbs. Joey, you did put the lock washers on there didn't you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turby Posted September 11, 2006 Report Share Posted September 11, 2006 Lock washers on ball joints? None I've ever bought came with lock washers. Should be a castle nut and cotter pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted September 11, 2006 Report Share Posted September 11, 2006 Lock washers on ball joints? None I've ever bought came with lock washers. Should be a castle nut and cotter pin. I think he's talking about the bolts that go into the knuckle. The 4 that hold it in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted September 11, 2006 Report Share Posted September 11, 2006 My 93' Olds manual shows not one t.spec figure for those bolts. All it says is ... Ball Joint Heat Shields Bolts ... 89lb.in. Ball Joint Nut (I suppose the crenalated nut) ... (see below) *tighten ball joint nut to 63lb.ft. Tighten to align next slot in the nut with cotter pin hole in stud. DO NOT tighten more tha 60* (1 flat) to align with hole. DO NOT loosen nut at any time during installation. Install new cotter pin. Personally I can't remember the last time I replaced a ball joint.... I do think that ball joints are held in place with rivets. This because step 7 of 8 in the book for replacing ball joints is... 7. Drill out four rivets retaining ball joint to knuckle/strut assembly (16). Use a 1/8" (3mm) drill bit to make a pilot hold through rivets. Finish drilling rivets with a 1/2" (13mm) drill bit. IMPORTANT! Do not damage drive axle boots when drilling out ball joint rivets So ... rivets = no Torque Spec. You must be speaking of the Heat Sheild nuts ... you may have ran a Lb.FT instead of a Lb.IN setting on the T.Wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted September 11, 2006 Report Share Posted September 11, 2006 My 93' Olds manual shows not one t.spec figure for those bolts. You must be speaking of the Heat Sheild nuts ... you may have ran a Lb.FT instead of a Lb.IN setting on the T.Wrench. The manual states nothing about it because they were originally riveted on. The torque spec for the four bolts holding the ball joint to the steering knuckle is 10-12 ft-lbs(most aftermarket ball joints should come w/ a piece of paper in the box stating this). The heat shield bolts just need to be snug, anyone that actually torques those to the proper level is just wasting time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted September 11, 2006 Report Share Posted September 11, 2006 what he said ^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted September 11, 2006 Report Share Posted September 11, 2006 My replacement balljoint had lock washers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey b Posted September 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2006 I got 6 lock washers to go with the 4 bolts. 2 I put on both sides the others I put on the end with the nut. I fed the bolt up from the bottom. I'm quite sure I tightened to at least 12 ft-lbs, but to no avail, here I am posting this. I retightened and haven't had any problem since. Haven't driven it much either though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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